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fimlimbimjim

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  1. Hi I have sort of got around the problem by buying a running bike :-) I will now start swapping things over to find the problem. jim
  2. I think I will hold onto it and lookout for some spares or a second bike. It's the backfiring which confuses me unless it's electrical. But where to find a cdi or stator to try out. Well thats all part of the fun.
  3. Bad news. Broke the kickstart. The bike starts now but very regularly kicks back through the carb.(before the break) I took the head off just to have a look The barrel and head look great. But there appears to be 1/4mm 'ish lateral movement on the small end didn't hear it when the engine was running. I almost get the feeling in the CDI, maybe a capacitor is breaking down and causing the spark whenever the voltage reaches a certain level not when the trigger coil is pulsing. Else I may still have the inlet valve wrong. (Pretty sure it's spot on now) Has anyone else had problems with Aprilia electrics ? If I can't get any further in the next week I may break the bike, sure some people will need spares.
  4. Hi I bought the bike as a non runner so do not know how it went before. I have looked on the net but cannot find a picture of a PHBH26 with a pipe where the break is. Carb break shown below. I've tried running the bike with the hole filled with some gloop. It starts reasonably reliably doesn't run perfectly but I managed to ride it around my yard. The gearbox, brakes & chassis feel quite good I think it just needs some tweeking now. I will have another go at the weekend. I currently have the air screw at 1 + 1/4 turns out does anyone know the default ? Thanks Jim
  5. Hi thanks for the reply. I set the stator half way and had another go today. bike started 3rd kick and ran for about 20 seconds before backfiring and blowing the carb off ! This is a big impovement. I then cleaned the carb and noticed a small broken off part leaving a small 2mm hole. it may just be an overflow. its on the right side of the carb main body opposite the air corrector screw. any ideas thanks jim
  6. I have checked the missing black wire on the cdi. This does seem to work as a cut off stopping the spark when connected to ground. I have also re checked the rotary valve. this was still a bit out. I have re done it and hope it is now just about right. the bike now splutters along a bit and sort of runs. the carb is next on the list for a recheck. Does anyone know "roughly" where to time the stator in the adjustment slot ? thanks for any replies
  7. Hi I have just bought a 1993/4 ish climber as a non runner. Some one has been in at the disc valve which was out, but I have set it as per the www.rotax.co.uk uk parts list instructions (I think). The previous owner has apparently changed the piston and rings due to low compression. The bike now has very strong compression maybe a little more than I would expect. I have checked over the carb and this looks to be set up just about right. 105 main jet and needle clip second from the bottom. I have tried the old squirt wd40 in the carb mouth to get over any carb problems. (I know this sounds a bit daft but its worked for me as an indicator for many years) This only leads to the occasional strong back fire through the carb or exhaust. This makes me think its an ignition problem. I have checked the rotor and stator, the ignition pickups are aligned at TDC give or take a smidgin. There is a very good spark but it almost seems to come too often My feeling is that the engines mechanicals, fuel are fine and its an electrical fault. I don't have a wiring diagram however the CDI is marked with wire colours three of which (brown, white, red )are connected the fourth (black) is empty but I guess this is for the kill switch and not required. Does anyone know if CDI will fail and still spark? I would be grateful of any advice or pearls of wisdom. Thanks Jim
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