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Thanks guys. Again, please pardon my ignorance. I guess I never thought about what the old kick starter shaft was connected to. I reckoned it went to the crank in some fashion, directly. I've looked at the exploded drawings. Am I to understand the shaft connects to the clutch there by connecting to the crank via the chain? So a mis-adjusted clutch slips resulting in the crank not getting all the motion required? Thanks for the update on the oil and amounts. ... and timing. Do you think there's a hint in Bultacos changing to a Bing? Sooner or later I'll get this thing going. Thanks again, Jeff

Hi all Thanks for all your input and help. I finally got all the electrical replaced. I guessing it was the low tension coil. It fired on the first kick. Unfortunately the restorer didnt have the right throttle cable on it so the slide was 3/4 open so I quickly shut her down. I fixed the cable and ultrasonic cleaned the carb. It seems to now have a weird condition. Quite similar to the weak (quite) kick mentioned in the post below... But its about 90% of the time. Injecting gas directly into the carb and or in the head still doesn't bring it to life. It feels like it has compression every 10 kick or so. I've had 2 strokes for over 30 years and I've never felt a kick starter feel like this. The spring and visible parts seem to be ok, although it feels like I could spin the kick starter way past the footpeg. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Jeff www.customknives.net http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/37769-kickstart-hitting-foot-peg/page__p__279166__hl__%2Bkick+%2Bstarter__fromsearch__1#entry279166 View PostCMC84, on 04 September 2011 - 01:33 PM, said: Fitted my kickstart return spring today, and proceeded to start the bike. Fired up after a few kicks, but I kept hitting the footpeg with my heel despite trying a few locations for the kickstart lever. I've got it mounted so that it starts to turn the engine at 12 o'clock, but it seems to want to continue past the footpeg (at about 4 o'clock) down to almost vertically down. Is this normal? Are my feet just too big, or it it just my technique? Also, it seemed like when I was turning it over, I would get one good kick which was turning the engine, then one "quiet" kick - is it the case that I'm kicking it through the expansion part of the stroke every other kick?

Thanks everybody. I really appreciate it. Still no spark or not much of one anyway. I finally got a book so I can run some electrical tests on it. I have a new condenser but I haven't had time to put it on yet. I'm sure it wont be that simple. As I mentioned earlier there's not a big fat blue spark. I do get a shock though. It really a bummer to see it sitting there... dead. And supposedly "completely" restored. Thanks for the carb and fender answers, ...all the answers for that matter. I think I'll dress it in plastic fenders for its summer guise. Or maybe those aftermarket aluminum ones. If I cant get it started soon I'll have to hang it on the wall. Thanks again, Jeff

Yep, it must have been a long day. This works. DUH. Thanks Guys. Now if I could just get some good spark. Jeff

Thanks Guys. This is true, I had spring reversed in the picture. It can only go on the bike as in the first 2 pic's below. I think #3 is probably where the spring might have been hitting a boss in the case, no biggy. I remember seeing the gap you mention before I pulled the spring off to turn the shoulders back. If I do get the assembly back in and manage to get the lug in the case between the springs, as in the second picture, there is a big gap between #1 and #2. Resulting in slop of 20 degrees or so. Tis a mystery... Regards, Jeff

Thank you Woody for your time. I've been making things with springs for over 20 years, but I'm not getting this. I didn't remove the plate with the 3 screws as the shifter began working when I initially loosened 3 of the case/cover screws. From that I figured that there was a bind between the inner case and the cover. So I took the shoulders down a bit shaft assembly. It seems no matter how I put the spring back on I don't get the return I had when the tension was off the case. .006" shouldn't make too much difference in that regard. Feeling like a dough-head at this point and running a magnet over the ground looking for something... This isn't rocket surgery... maybe just a long day... The spring just doesn't look like its on the shaft right. There was a gap in the spring between the shoulder the the pin that's on the shift pawl/assembly. About the size of the lug that's screwed into the case. Jeez... On another note, a 325cc was called a 350? Would a fellow be better off retrofitting a 27mm Mikuni on this? I like the whole "vintage" thing, but I also like things optimized. Thanks again, Jeff

Heres a quick pic. Thanks, Jeff

Hi, Just an update. I pulled the primary cover, loosening the 3 bolts around the shifter first. At which point the shifter began returning to a central position. I faced the shoulders about .003" on each side of the shifting rod. Now I cant seem to get the torsion spring back into the proper position. I still haven't received the manual and i was wondering if anyone had a view of how the spring sets on the second shoulder. Thanks abunch, Jeff

HI all, Thanks for the info. Well the typo was in the model #, its a 92.00.001 according to Hughes. I double checked and it is a 625 Amal. Does that mean its really a 325? I'm going to pull the clutch cover and check the shifter return spring. A couple other questions if you all dont mind. Are these fenders real Bultaco (oem) or the Aluminum replacements I've seen available? I've seen a few different Condensers referenced. I'm wondering if anyone has a definitive part number that I might use at my local Napa store. I see a flat slide Mikuni on Hughes site. Just wondering if any has any thought on this conversion, and what the real part number is. On the card side of things I run a 140 on my gasser. Any idea what the pilot or needle might be good for 4000' and above, either of the 2 carbs. Thanks again, Jeff I tried to post a photo of the bike from my website but it said it wasn't allowed. Theres a picture at www.customknives.net/net/MOJO.htm Thanks.

Hi All, This is my first post to this forum. It looks like a great resource. My Name Is Jeff Harkins, I'm a custom knife maker living in Montana. I am also a Gas-Gas dealer for our neck of the woods. I recently got my dream bike a restored 1974 Sherpa T350 #92xx. I haven't had a Bultaco in 30 years so I'm a bit rusty on some things. First, the main problem is it wont start. I rebuilt the Amal 625 carb, all seems to be fine. I Checked the coil and grounding. No BIG blue spark but I could "FEEL" it. Before I attempt anymore checking I have a few questions. 1. How do you check the fluid levels? Is it if you can't see any fluid then it needs some. 2. There seems to be some disparity regarding types and amounts used for Primary and tranny. I read ATF... But anyway, type and amounts would be great. 3. Shift lever stays where you put it, no return to a central position. Is this normal? My last Bull was an Alpina and i don't remember that happening. Also I've noticed in some of the pics on this and other forums an almost vertical orientation. 4. I suppose I need to check the points. But if something is wrong with the tranny I'd rather start there. I've got a manual coming but.... I Really want to break it in. Thanks abunch and best regards, Jeff