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Splat Shop - S3 - TRS Cylinder Head Inserts (Fits Original Head) 250 / 280 / 300cc The link above is to TRS head inserts, read the bit that says 'please note'. It seems they do two different inserts.

Have you seen this? TRS Workshop Guide about the battery and charging. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CfgC0HcEFnCTDmIOaTPFu84BI8-D8LiD/view

Here's a picture of mine in 92. You can make out the rear brake rod on it. I wonder if your bike has more mods on it? If someone went to the expense of putting discs on it (presumably it had a Talon on the front as well at some time), the chances are they had some more work done, maybe the engine has been worked on?

Talon disc on the back must be quite scarce nowadays. I used to have a Ty with talon discs front and back in the early 90s. In the third picture your rod from the master cylinder on the swing arm to the rear brake pedal is at an odd angle which I don't remember. I've looked at some old pictures, it wasn't at that angle, more horizontal.

From Dirt Bike Rider magazine March 1987 Admin edit: Content removed. Breach of copyright.

Taken from Dirt Bike Rider, October 1986

http://www.venhill.co.uk/Downloads/CableConstruction.pdf

From Roy Bacon's book Two Stroke Tuning.

Didn't these bikes have two slow jets? Look up where you took your slow jet out and see if there's another one up there.

Another clue might be in the wheel bearings, if can make out the numbers. Different years used different bearings. Read this: http://www.sxsuk.com/WheelBearings.aspx

I have the same problem. For a couple of years i used a master cylinder with a bigger bore, 10.5mm compared to 9.5mm diameter. It was better in that it didn't take so much lever movement to clear the clutch, it didn't drag. It was worse in that it was a bit stiffer to pull and much more 'on or off', so not so good for creeping round tight corners. What I'm doing now is using the standard Beta master cylinder but using VERY careful adjustment to get it just perfect. Make sure there is no wear in the pivot, the hole in the lever can go oval. Make sure the lever isn't bent out at all.

Try this book http://victorylibrary.com/MIK-BT.htm It tells you everything you could ever want to know about Mikuni VM carbs.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3f207d59f7 Bit pricey though, plus £4.99 postage.

This is a good site http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual/mc_contents.htm

they're not aluminium, how about stainless? http://www.custom-fasteners.co.uk/acatalog/Flange_Button_Head_Screws.html

I had a badly rusted tank on an old lawnmower recently, didn't want to spend money on it as it was a lawnmower. At the local shop an old sage, covered in oil, came out from the back shop, told me to get a handfull of gravel from my driveway, put it in the tank and shake it a lot. Went home and did this, tank was almost spotless inside, all the rust and scale had gone, rinsed it out and it works fine. Could be a good preperation for a finish inside a steel trials tank if you want to do it cheaply?

Sorry if I'm hijacking your topic, is there a general rule for handlebars and rider size? Does a large rider go for wide bars with a higher rise with the opposite true for a small rider?

There's a ty 125 piston on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200551075637 , the diameter is 56mm. The 125 engine was the same as the 175 except it had a sleeve in the barrel, it used a smaller diameter piston, the stroke was the same. There's also a 175 piston in the same ebay shop, it's 66mm diameter.

I had a TY mono back in the early 90's, bought it second hand, it didn't have grease nipples on the swing arm but it was something i wanted to do, lots of owners put them on. Grease nipples on the linkage were standard? Lots of bits were available from Talon and Shirts, this bike had an alloy kickstart, a fibreglass bashplate that went between the engine and the normal bashplate, Talon discs front and rear, air valves on the forks to let air out and a fibreglass petrol tank. Somebody had also made up frame and linkage protectors from stainless steel, it looked really good. It's the most favourite of all the bikes I've owned. I rode it to death over three years and traded it in for next to nothing for another TY. Don't know anything about the shock, but other mods were 270 conversions and shortened inlet.

How do they do this, are the sprockets specially made or are they from a smaller bike? Reason i'm wondering is that my 125 Sherco is needing new chain and sprockets soon, i like the idea of a smaller chain. Sherco 80's use 520 chain? Does anyone know of 420 sprockets that would fit a 08 125 sherco?

10 front, 35 rear is what i always used.

If you're really stuck jam a piece of rag between your primary gear and the teeth on your clutch.

I put a piece of card under the engine on my sherco, long enough that it overhangs the bashplate, fold the sides up a bit so the oil doesn't overflow.

The link worked this time but i don't know why.