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Splat Shop - S3 - TRS Cylinder Head Inserts (Fits Original Head) 250 / 280 / 300cc The link above is to TRS head inserts, read the bit that says 'please note'. It seems they do two different inserts.

Have you seen this? TRS Workshop Guide about the battery and charging. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CfgC0HcEFnCTDmIOaTPFu84BI8-D8LiD/view

Here's a picture of mine in 92. You can make out the rear brake rod on it. I wonder if your bike has more mods on it? If someone went to the expense of putting discs on it (presumably it had a Talon on the front as well at some time), the chances are they had some more work done, maybe the engine has been worked on?

Talon disc on the back must be quite scarce nowadays. I used to have a Ty with talon discs front and back in the early 90s. In the third picture your rod from the master cylinder on the swing arm to the rear brake pedal is at an odd angle which I don't remember. I've looked at some old pictures, it wasn't at that angle, more horizontal.

From Dirt Bike Rider magazine March 1987 Admin edit: Content removed. Breach of copyright.

Taken from Dirt Bike Rider, October 1986

http://www.venhill.co.uk/Downloads/CableConstruction.pdf

From Roy Bacon's book Two Stroke Tuning.

Didn't these bikes have two slow jets? Look up where you took your slow jet out and see if there's another one up there.

Another clue might be in the wheel bearings, if can make out the numbers. Different years used different bearings. Read this: http://www.sxsuk.com/WheelBearings.aspx

I have the same problem. For a couple of years i used a master cylinder with a bigger bore, 10.5mm compared to 9.5mm diameter. It was better in that it didn't take so much lever movement to clear the clutch, it didn't drag. It was worse in that it was a bit stiffer to pull and much more 'on or off', so not so good for creeping round tight corners. What I'm doing now is using the standard Beta master cylinder but using VERY careful adjustment to get it just perfect. Make sure there is no wear in the pivot, the hole in the lever can go oval. Make sure the lever isn't bent out at all.

Try this book http://victorylibrary.com/MIK-BT.htm It tells you everything you could ever want to know about Mikuni VM carbs.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3f207d59f7 Bit pricey though, plus £4.99 postage.

This is a good site http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual/mc_contents.htm