I've seen this bike in person, and it's a very trick TY. It sounds really good, and has a lot of handmade parts. He even completely handmade the pipe and silencer! Shercosteve is not only a great fabricator, but he's also a heck of a rider, and he took 1st place on this bike at our last event.
I couldn't find a heat shield when I was building my bike, so I made my own, It was very time consuming, so if you can find one already made up, I would definitely recommend it.
I had a used '91 WR200 kickstarter that I adapted to my TY175. The lower half is the original TY, and the upper half is from the WR200. The detent ball and spring was in a different location on the WR kicker than on the TY kicker, so to get it to work, I had to drill another pocket in the TY lower half for the ball to detent in to. I have a B&J Racing electronic ignition on it, and it starts really easy, so the shorter kicker is no problem. I still have to lift the footpeg up to get it to kick all the way through. Since it is shorter, it's less likely to bend like the original one did.
Thanks for the complement. The part number I used is RD-0450, but it was too tall. I had to cut off the lower end cap, cut 25mm off of the filter, and then reglue the end cap back on. When I decided to make this airbox, I went to my local bike shop and they had this one in stock, so I built the airbox around it. There may be a filter available that may be a better fit, but I didn't have a problem modifying this one so that's what I did.
Per recommendations from Bob at B&J Racing, I made my own fiberglass airbox so that I could use a K&N air filter. I have a 24mm Oko carb, and the throttle response is absolutely perfect! I'm still using the stock Yamaha boot between the carb and airbox. The round hole on the left side is so that I can get to the hose clamp. The reason for the angle that is cut on the left side is so that I could get the side panel to fit. Since the side panel covers that whole side of the airbox, I don't have to worry about water getting splashed in. This was my first ever attempt at making an airbox from scratch, and I know that it looks ugly, but it works.
Wow, another great looking bike that you've built!!!
BTW...the Penton Wassell with the 152 kit that you built just won another Championship at Mid Ohio, and the Penton 125 with the downpipe and aluminum tank that you have is also very cool.
I have been building a 250 and trying to make it look other than stock. I'm very proud of it but it's not as trick as yours.
I was hoping that you and LM would be at Mid Ohio this year so that you could take it for a test ride! My next project is to build a couple of 250's, one for me, and another one for a friend. I know what my friend wants his bike to look like and I have a pretty good idea of what I'm going to do to trick it out, but still thinking about what I want to do to mine. Maybe do a sister bike to my 175?
how does it ride with the shocks laid like that, i modded a ty frame but didnt lean them that much
It rides really nice. The shocks are Magicals, and when I ordered them, I gave Craig all of the shock mounting point measurements, and he built the shocks from there.
Dayton,Oh trials this weekend,http://www.trialsinc...gger=sch2&ID=33 bring her over and ride vintage class,we need some more vintage riders. Then Newark,Oh is labor day weekend,then Stoney Lonesome Sept 15th,16th. Vintage bikes ride Novice line.(Your free to ride any class you want though)
BTW,My Oko drives me crazy,works great in my back yard,if I take her out anywhere away from home she floods over,cleaned multiple times,replaced filter repeatedly,lowered float level,ready to source a new Dellorto for my Fantic (Does run great when not flooding)
I don't think I be able to ride any of those dates, but I would like to ride the event on Oct. 13/14 at Wildwood Lake. It's close to my home, and I'm friends with the property owner.
I had to do a couple of minor jetting changes to the 24mm Oko carb, but other than that, it carburets absolutely perfectly.
Lay-down shock looks good but suspect that you might end up needing to brace the frame around the upper mount.
Very nice bike. Mate you have to put a brace to the shock mounts before you take it out, it will crack otherwise.... take a look, the shock will be putting a huge side load on the tube.
Thanks for the advice. I have already ridden 1 event on it, and have ridden it around on the trials obstacles I have in my backyard a few times, but have not had any issues...yet. I will definitely keep an eye out for cracks.
Very nice, are the photos before & after or 2 different bikes
I notice you are running a boost bottle, what is the manifold off?
How much did you lengthen the swingarm by?
When you do the rims it would be a good idea to replace the rear with a tubeless rim, better range of tyres that way
These are before and after photos of the same bike.
I extended the swingarm by 50mm.
The manifold is from a Yamaha RD350. The bolt hole pattern is the same, but the RD manifold has a couple of "ears" that have to be trimmed off before it will bolt up against the TY reed cage.
Thanks everyone for the compliments on my new ride.
Nice nice bit of work. I like the ty80 tank and the yz side case. How is it to start with the cut down kicker?
The tank is actually from a '74 Honda XL70 (I hope that Gremlins don't get me for putting Honda parts on my Yamaha). I had to move both the front and rear mounts on the frame to get it to fit. I really like the looks of it, so it was worth the extra work.
The bike has a B&J Racing electronic ignition on it, and it starts really easy, so the shorter kicker is no problem. I still have to lift the footpeg up to get it to kick all the way through. Since it's shorter, it's less likely to bend like the original one did. The lower half is the original TY, and the upper half is from a '91 Yamaha WR200. The detent ball and spring was in a different location on the WR kicker than on the TY kicker, so to get it to work, I had to drill another pocket in the TY lower half for the ball to detent in to.
I bought this bike about a year ago to ride in Trials competition. Instead of just restoring it back to original condition, I wanted something that looked a little different, and this is my end result. I haven't touched the wheels yet, but I think I'm going to polish the hubs, anodize the rims black, and lace them up with stainless spokes and nipples.
Thanks for the replys, and mentioning about the fuel and fiberglass problems. I have 10 bikes that I either ride or race, so I've become all too familiar with the issues with Ethanol fuel clogging jets and/or eating the fiberglass tank. The two local airports in my area require you to show proof of ownership of an airplane before they will sell you aviation fuel, so since I don't any airplanes lying around, I started using Sunoco Racing fuel in all of my bikes, and have not had any problems since. It's pretty expensive (over $6.00 a gallon), but it sure does beat tearing a carburetor apart to clean it everytime you want to go riding. I have 3 Pentons that I race, and even though I now use race fuel exclusively, just to be safe I coated the inside of the fiberglass tanks with POR15, and have not had any problems with the them leaking.
I've owed a modern trials bike for a few years now, but just recently got bitten by the "Twin Shock" bug. I bought a '76 TY175, and the stock tank is dented and has a lot of rust inside, so I was thinking about purchasing a fiberglass tank to replace it with. I've seen the tank/seat unit that Sammy Miller sells, but I was wanting something a little different. So, my question is; can anyone tell me if the tank/seat unit that Yamaha-Majesty.com sells to fit the Mini Majesty and 200 Majesty frames, will fit a production model frame? I have the tools and abilty to modify the frame if need be.
(Does run great when not flooding)
Looking For A Saracen Trials Frame
in Saracen
Posted
I see that there is one for sale on ebay in the United States right now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Other-Makes-1970-SARACEN-125-TRIALS-/121753814291?forcerrptr=true&hash=item1c5917c513&item=121753814291