charlie chitlins

No comments here? This is great information. Thank you!!

You're going to have to explain the problem better. What year is the bike? Does it go into gear with the engine off, if you rock the bike fore and aft a bit? Does it seem to click into gear but nothing happens? Can you see the clutch arm on the engine moving when you squeeze the clutch? The way you asked the question is like, "My car isn't working right...how much do you think it will cost to fix it?"

Modern levers all seem to break in the same place, leaving a just-right amount for 1-finger operation.

If they're allens, get a drill bit that just fits in the stripped holes...or even a bit bigger...put it in a vise with about 1/4-1/2" protruding and snap the top off with a sharp blow with a hammer. Now chuck it in a drill, tighten it real good and run it backwards. Often the rough end will walk the bolts out. If that doesn't work, stack 2 cutoff wheels on a dremel and cut a slot for a flat screwdriver. If THAT doesn't work...allens might be easy to strip, but they have their own pilot hole! Drill it and use a screw extractor.

Nice work! Did you change the neck angle? Move the pegs? I'd like to see a list of modifications. I recently did a bunch of work on a TS250 of about the same vintage and it was crazy fast! A dirt slinging wheelie machine. It would have needed some engine mods to make it a trials engine!! But then again...my Scorpa is powered by a YZ250...

Throttle stop? I think you could work on that forever and not get anywhere if you have no spark.

Is it a breaker ignition? Could need to file/set the points, and condensers have a shelf life. Even many of the "new" ones are old and useless.

Good call on the sprocket. I have a clapped out one to use as a template.

Agreed!! I've been thinking about this. I bought a bike from a kid who lost half a finger just loading his bike. Trying to imagine what to do without a fabrication shop or injection molding facility! I was considering running the chain through PVC pipe...or something. I suppose where the chain meets the sprocket on the bottom is where fingers would be likely to get drawn in. I used to make sprocket and disk guards by cutting up plastic cutting boards... I could probably work something out. I'm open to suggestions. His cheapie Walmart Razor electric bike has a fully enclosed chain. I guess they're more worried about liability.

Just bought one for the lad...the model designation is 25, but, I've never even seen a 25cc engine...maybe in a weed whacker. I guess it's a 50. Sweet little bike, but I'm guessing they are very rare. I hope it never needs parts. Anybody know anything about them?

Picked up the 50 last night. I'd like to correspond with anybody who has/had one.

The 80 was snapped up immediately, so the choice has been made for me. I have also found that most kids have no problem with a bike that is too small...even WAY too small. They like the feeling of being able to toss it around. All my sons and their friends would always gravitate toward the smallest bicycle in the pile. I like the idea ofmthe nsmaller bike.

Hi, Nige. I've always thought a small 4T would be great for beginner kids. Easy throttle hit, grunty for climbing, less likely to stall, good engine braking for downhills...

50 is an '04, 80 is '09. Mainly concerned with dependability/build quality.

SWEET!!! Any more pics? Pics of the build? I really want to build my son a bike with a small bore 4 stroke engine.

There sure are a lot of cheap xr70s etc out there. Anybody go old school and adapt one for a beginner trialer? It seems to me like the venerably TY80 wasn't far from a trail bike. I'm a pretty good welder so I'm not afraid to move pegs or even change neck angle. Just looking to give an 8-year-old a bit of a feeling of a trials bike on a budget. It seems to me a grunty 4 stroke would be a good introduction.

Excellent for a beginner! That's talent.

Thanks! My meniscus was removed 40 years ago. That's how they did it back then!

Hadn't checked in for awhile. Thanks for the info. My clutch had ATF in it. I remember from back when I was working on GG, Sherco and Scorpa regularly, we were having clutch material getting un-bonded from the plates, and it was always bikes with ATF.

Pics, or it didn't happen

I'm recovering from a knee replacement. In a tongue-in-cheek way, I said to Mama Chitlins, " I may bring the bike in the house for balance practice...y'know...as physical therapy." And a few days ago, something came up about my recovery and she calmly said to a friend, "Yeah... we're considering bringing Charlie's trials bike inside for the winter so he can practice balance and strengthen his leg." Yup... I'm bragging. I married RIGHT......this time

Woah! Sweet! Interesting picture....looks like Iceland, or something.

A penetrating oil that follows heat helps. I used Kroil. Several heating/cooling cycles helps, so does tapping sharply and repeatedly with a hammer to help loosen the interface and help the oil penetrate. Dissimilar metals make a small electrical charge that promotes oxidation and they virtually weld themselves together. I would say that 10-15 heating/cooling cycles would not be unheard of. That's a hostile environment. Put the new one in with high temp anti-seize.

I have a 2000's bike, but my style is strictly pre-65 ? I just want to be well enough to feel what it's like to be in a stream bed with a motorcycle under me again.

I think they're all good. I would suggest that if your nearest dealer is reputable, buy his brand and build a relationship.