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gaspgasp

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Posts posted by gaspgasp
 
 
  1. 9 hours ago, brucey said:

    Thanks Gaspgasp, it sounds like something to try.  Slightly gutted I have spent 2 nights filing all the edges on my Apico clutch plates though.  However I'm prepared to try EBC fibre plates if there is a good chance of improving the problem ?

    Can you confirm a couple of things:

    I'm assuming you still used your Apico dimpled plates with the EBC friction plates.

    The 3mm holes in the inner alloy hub are spaced in a spiral pastern.  How close to the existing hole did you drill the additional hole? and do you remember which side of the existing hole you drilled it?

    I'm assuming you drilled the 4mm hole in the outer basket fingers in the middle of the thickest part near the base of the fingers (about 10mm from the base).  Is this right.  Are these holes to allow the oil to be flung away from the clutch plates? 

    Interesting about the 4 springs although I'm not sure my OCD will allw me to choose which 2 springs to remove!

    - Still kept the dimpled plates.

    - Inner clutch hub drilled 3mm hole about 10mm centres with existing, on the side which had more space.

    - The outer clutch basket was drilled center of each finger, which is minor compared to the after-market MX baskets with large slots milled in each finger.

    I should have tried each method individually to identify the fault but didn’t have the time, spent to long with a spanner in my hand rather than riding. If you have the time try above but without the EBC cork plates & Rock Oil, it may work & save you a bit of brass.

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  2. 10 hours ago, brucey said:

    O.k, I know it's been covered many times but I'm looking for something I may have missed.

    I recently replaced my 2014 clutch plates with a set of Apico friction plates and dimpled discs.  I also used the correct Elf oil.  However I continue to get enough clutch drag to have to put it in neutral to start (Just like my Tiger Cub!).  Selecting gears becomes difficult once the bike is hot and neutral is pretty much impossible to find at any time with the engine running.

    I currently have the clutch out and have polished out some very shallow marks in the clutch basket fingers with 800 wet and dry. (mainly on the drive side).  I will also dress all the fingers on the virtually new Apico plates to see if that helps.

    I have read all the posts on this subject and am at a loss as to what else I can do.  The hydraulics and slave cylinder all appear to be working perfectly. 

    A guy at a recent trial said he removed several clutch plates from his 315 to cure his clutch drag problems!

    I have to say the problem is taking the fun out of riding what should be a very nice bike. 

    Any further advice before I put it back together would be gratefully received.

     

    Bruce.

    I had the same problem, a right head banger, I fully stripped the whole clutch system, filed edges, cleaned every part, replaced all clutch seals, installed new Apico dimpled plates & fibres (chamfered all sharp edges) & filled with fresh dot 4 & ELF HTX oil, resulting in absolutely zero change to the clutch dragging issue! Just before scrapping the bike I ended up giving it another go, installed new cork EBC clutch plates, changing the oil to Rock Oil gear pro 75W, drilling a 4mm hole in each of the outer alloy clutch basket fingers & an additional 3mm hole in the inner alloy clutch hub (next to & in-line  with the existing hole) the result was best feeling clutch ever, still easy to find neutral after 2 hours of riding, no drag whatsoever, also no slip on the big sections - I run only 4 standard clutch springs rather than 6 for a more progressive feel & it’s a full 300cc!

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