After a year away from riding I'm finally getting back out on the bike tomorrow. Problem is I have two fuel cans with petrol which has been mixed with 2 stroke oil, but they've been sat for approximately 12 months. Will it still be fine to use with my Beta 250?
Well I took everyone's advice and bought a bike! Went for a beta evo 250 factory.
Have to say I went to Inch Perfect Trials and the service was excellent. I got a good long test ride on a mont and standard evo 250 and the facilities are great. Guys are really knowledgable and the advice was sound. If you fancy a bike and live in the north, get yourself there.
I'm looking to purchase a new trials bike (haven't decided which model yet) but wondered when 2018 models tend to be released? From memory it seems to be quarter 3 of the year before.
If there a 'best' time of year to buy a bike? I know updates don't tend to be too drastic nowadays, but don't want to invest in a new model, only for a newer one to be released the following week.
I’ve started to notice on my 06 290 that when I pull the clutch it does not fully disengage immediately (like the plates are sticking?) and sometimes takes a small rev to free it off. Just wondering if anyone has had the same issue and what I should look at first.
I’ve searched the forum but couldn’t find a similar post. Anyone experienced this before? I’ve been riding around it for the past two trials but it keeps catching me out in sections!
Ran a Dunlop rear for the first time today and found it great. I got it because the guy in the shop said the stiffer side wall means you can make it back if you get a flat tyre. Also plenty of grip for the novice routes I use!
As the title says my bike decided to stall when descending a slope. Clutch was out, in 1st gear and the bike seemed to be engine braking nicely, then it died. Started again fine.
Any ideas what the typical cause of this is? My initial thought it the tick over may be too low?
Taffe - sounds like it might be a good option. do you have any pics?
Copemech - I've been running with full synthetic at 2% as it states in the manual but sounds like 50:1 is too much oil. I'm a complete beginner so not riding the bike or revving hard. Should I give 80:1 a go based on the riding I do? I know there's LOADS of threads on premix so don't want to get too deep into it!
Also a go and blow? I take it you mean a good fast run to get it hot and clean it out? I notice some people at trials giving full revs when stationary or before a big climb, does this achieve the same thing?
So I was out on my 06 2.9 and a fellow rider commented on it being quite smokey from the exhaust. I'd only been riding about 15mins so thought it may still be cold. I carried on and it didn't really clear up.
I know you can't split the silencer without having to weld it back together and a replacement ain't cheap. Has anyone had the same problem and will it only be excessive oil in the silencer packing, or could it be something worse?
Also I've heard people at trials mentioning about 'clearing it out' but didn't understand what they meant (as you can tell I'm new to this!). Is it just a case of full revs when the engine is warm to clear out any carry over?
Nice one thanks for the info. It already has rim locks installed so I'll try an old tubeless tyre that I already have with a tube. Failing that I'll get myself a tube type tyre.
So I bought a new rear tyre for my Ty 250 mono that I'm restoring and bought a tubeless Dunlop. When I took the old tyre off I spotted that it was tube tyre with a tube fitted. So I was wondering...
1) Could I fit a tubeless tyre without a tube?
2) Can I fit a tubeless tyre with a tube inside?
3) How important is the internal rim tape when a tube is installed? The current one looks original!
4) Is an internal rim tape for a tube tyre different to a tubeless?
It was also the first time I'd removed a rear tyre. Talk about something putting up a fight!
Noticed tonight that the front brake disc on my sherco has some movement in it where it is bolted to the hub. About 3mm I'd say. Just wondering if this is normal or if the disc should be tight.
Just wondering if anyone can help in identifying what model my recently acquired Ty250 mono is? Frame is fire engine red and it looks like the engine number starts 88V (frame number matches up).
Copemech Agreed! I felt guilty after taking the pics but couldn't resist a quick inspection before cleaning it. It's sparkling now!
Anyway...fitted a new plug, put it back together and......started second kick from cold (as always)!
Glad it's running, BUT...I don't know if its just me but it does feel a bit more 'vibey' when ticking over and I thought I heard a very occasional metal 'knock' from the engine when warm and revving it hard.
I'm fully aware this could just be me looking for something that's not there but is there anything else that's worth checking i.e. the carb?
Just wondering if anyone can tell me if this looks like scoring on the piston or if it's just the oil dragging across the surface? Throttle got stuck wide open the other day. Kill switch wouldn't work so a friend put his hand over the exhaust to stall it.
It seemed to run fine after this but after another 4 sections went back to the van, tried to start it again but it wouldn't go. Also some comments made about it looking a bit smokey. Spoke to my local shop would said get the exhaust off and have a look turning the engine over slowly.
I felt guilty after taking the pics but couldn't resist a quick inspection before cleaning it. 
It's sparkling now!
Pre Mix Fuel - Does Age Matter?
in General Trials Talk
Posted
That is for the advise. Decided to change out the fuel for the sake of less than £10. Must have worked because I came 2nd ?