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j__h

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  1. The cap appears to provide its own surface for the pressure seal. Thus having it on tighter will do nothing if it is not leaking from around the cap itself (which it isn't). Thanks for the tip though, could help out on the other bikes.
  2. Yeah it is just a little bit leaks when the line is first squeezed. Here is another thing i tried. Blowing into cap when forming seal with my hands, the bubbles are coming out the overflow, there is no way i can produce 1 bar so i highly suspect cap is bad. Rad cap test 2: So now time to source a cap. I presume there is no interchangeability with other bikes?
  3. Yes I am aware of that, I have not been topping it off and I actually think I have put the coolant level below that which is called for in the manual (I have it just about at the fins which leaves a large area for air). I even took some coolant out with a syringe after a few rides to see if it would continue leaking, and it did on the next ride.
  4. I have been riding my 2006 Scorpa SY250r and getting some dribble out the overflow. I suspect it is either simple a bad radiator cap or head gasket leak. The fan is turning on, the fins are clean, and the coolant level is only just above the fins. Every ride it seems to let out maybe 15ml of fluid. Before I start replacing parts any test for what could be wrong? I I tried something very simple where I filled the overflow tube with coolant and then squeezed a radiator hose and it did push some of the coolant out of the overflow (presumably air escaping the radiator) which would seem to indicate the cap is bad? Here is the video: Is the cap specific to Scorpa SY250r or are the interchangeable over different makes of bike?
  5. I have seen inside the midpipe and there is not any stop for the header, just two large orings then it goes into the midpipe itself. >You will find that once this is done and all is tightened up, you may be able to twist the mid box side to side to give a bigger gap between chain run I will give this a shot, hopefully just the tighter chain will help and maybe some extra margin can be from the twisting of the midpipe.
  6. The chain and sprockets are in good condition. The tensioner block was just off the swingarm when on a stand, did look like it could use a bit more chain tension. The picture above was after a bit of tensioning of the chain. How far should the midbox be pushed onto the header pipe, there is not really any defined point to stop? One note is that the marks on the midpipe would be easy to miss if one were not looking for them.
  7. Thanks for the advice. Yes, it does make sense it would be sprocket sensitive just thought it would be a wide enough margin that some simple measure could be done. (I do know the Golden standard is that the chain does not get tight anywhere in the bikes travel. >Do make sure though that your tensioner is in good state of wear, ....the std alloy ones do wear and bend easily. The bike I got was barely used and the tensioner appear to be in good shape. The last question is: it does appear the midpipe gets touched by the chain sometimes (I can see some small marks where the chain runs under it) Is this something that is normal? Would not want to punch a hole in the mid-pipe. The chain was actually a little bit looser than the picture I took, I had just tightened it a little bit to what seemed right, maybe that would keep it off totally.
  8. My very minimal manual says nothing about how to check the chain tension. Also being new to trials bikes (and bikes with tensioners) I am not sure about the spec. Anybody have any word on how to best set this? I hear often a measure of the tensioner to swingarm distance is the spec. This is the bike on a stand: This is the bike on the ground:
  9. j__h

    Petcock Assembly

    I agree with everything you have said, I even usually do take pictures just forgot for this one. The ordering you suggest is what makes most sense to me also I just thought it was initially placed were it is now but as you mention it would seemingly not provide a seal.
  10. j__h

    Petcock Assembly

    Due to ethanol in the gas I needed to clean out the petcock as the On was partially blocked (still flowed well) and the Reserve was almost fully blocked with very little flow. Once I finished cleaning out the ports, it seems the way it goes together would not provide such a good seal. Can I get confirmation on the ordering of the parts, especially the wavy metal washer against the orange seal. I have it laid out the way I think, such that it would fit together from left on bottom to right on the top.
  11. I did some minimal rounding, but I think it should be sufficient just getting rid of that sharp corner. The weld is fairly ugly due to the oil that could not fully be removed from inside the pipe, but it should work.
  12. I will just be rounding the corner a little, would just be good to get confirmation that the number plate is not hollow.
  13. Not me, I am in the United States. Apparently a blown mid pipe is very common on these bikes.
  14. Here is the damage I am seeing on the center exhaust of my new to me 2006 SY250, it is a pyramid shape from the corner of the engine number block. With the tip just puncturing it, I also hear that some weld cracks but I cannot see any signs of that I wonder if there should be any reinforcement of a particular weld when I am getting the puncture taken care of? and culprit, Red points to corner and I am wondering if the piece of coolant pipe (yellow arrow) placed there is stock or if it maybe was put there in reaction to this issue, I think it may even make it worse by pushing the midpipe onto the corner: So now the question is how much of that corner should I be taking off and should I do more than just the corner, like Both rear corners and the rear edge. I would assume the entire block is superfluous material but I would rather get some verification first as to what I should be doing in order to have this not occur again or incur more damage from excessive grinding. Here it is cleaned up a little:
  15. j__h

    Filter Oil?

    This all makes sense. That manual is terrible for not mentioning to use oil. One last question, does one need to use the lithium grease to help seal the interface, it is something that I have not had to do on other bikes as the interface well sealed without any grease.
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