I have brought a second hand carb which has had the mod done to it. I think this has holes blocked off and new vents drilled. I will swap this over and see what happens.
Did you take your carb off because you were having problems or just for a clean and service ?
I owned the bike before for my oldest son. We sold it, and bought it back two years later for my youngest son. Bike had sat a lot for that two years. It ran horrible when we got it. I cleaned the carb up, adjusted the floats per this thread, and she runs great. I hope your new carb runs fantastically!
Hello Billy I will answer all your questions when I have a bit more time, but thanks for all your help. I have a taken a couple of photos prior to seeing you post. My camera is a bit rubbish so I could not get a great photo of the mark in the float bowl that you requested. I will try and borrow a better camera. I have taken a couple of pictures of the side casting that is not straight and also the baffle again that is not straight. I am not sure if they are relevant or not. Maybe the float could rub against the baffle?
Did you ever get this sorted? My carb is off my sons Rev right now in pieces. Been doing lots of reading, and putting it back on bike tomorrow. Just curious of your results.
The clutch fix did WONDERS! The oil was just the extra little icing on the cake.
Per Ray Peters instructions, my dad also used the Mobil 1 0W-40 on both his 250 evo 4t and his 300 4t with great success. I've only owned 2t. There are a lot of oil choices out there, not saying this is the only option, or even the best. It's just the answer to the problems my dad and I were both having. Just sharing my experience.
I was having all the problems you were having. Ray Peters told me to switch to Mobil 1 0W-40 full synthetic (European car formula). No idea why it works, but it's like magic!
Get your bike good and hot, and change the oil. Ride it for 30 minutes or longer and change it again. Also, VERY important, fill to the dot on the center of the site glass. Depending on year, that will likely be around 475ml.
Hey guys, I've had my 2011 beta evo 250 2T for a couple years now, I'm considering upgrading to one of the 2017 world round minder evo 250 2T bikes.
Several questions I'm hoping you can answer:
1. What are the differences between these bikes?
2. Any reason I shouldn't buy a world round minder bike?
3. I have done the "clutch mod", as well as added 3mm spacers to my clutch, and I really like it. Are the clutches similar? I'd hate to "upgrade" and not like it.
Sent a message to Ben. He quickly replied. I think he has a clutch that many will want, but to rich for my blood. They are 620 British pounds, which is $900ish in US. I hope to hear reports of it as time goes. Meanwhile, I'll tinker and fine tune mine. I just swapped to 10w-40 Torco, and like it for the short ride I took. Wish I could get a hold of that fancy putoline stuff to try in the US.
Ok, I did. All I get to see is a pic and the comments. Who do I search out to get info? Web address or Facebook name. I just bought new sureflex plates, but they ate still new in the box. I'm happy to turn and be a guinea pig in these if they claim smooth engagement.
I agree that the clutch hydraulics are self adjusting and the theory behind the shimming should be flawed.....but I suspect the position of hydraulic pistons especially the slave piston is important. A millimeter or two in the wrong direction may actually affect things. ...I'm keen to try this adjustment
I'm with you, I would like to try the adjustment. If were dragging, which way do we need to adjust? Thinner or thicker?
The stock shims are thin. Could we experiment by removing the shim?
My 2011 evo 2t has drag. I have done the clutch "fix" (which made my clutch SO much better in every aspect). When I first got the bike used a year ago, it didn't have any. I did the clutch fix soon after getting, and still didn't have any. The last several months it has progressed more and more to having more drag. I have the clutch lever adjusted properly so it fully releases with a small gap between piston and the plunger.
I am thinking I need to adjust this shim as mentioned in the video. Do I need to add shim, or remove? I think remove, but that seems backwards?
Thanks a bunch to Dan for sending me a set of the super trick spacers! I installed them last week, and rode for 5-6 hours. Clutch is like a dream! VERY light clutch lever pull. (I had previously removed glue and polished the tabs) I had previously installed washers. This is dramatically better.
We'll see how these are long term. Right now, the clutch grabs like it should in all gears EXCEPT 6th. If I'm in high, and floor it, it WILL slip. I just simply won't do that. If I ease into it and roll it up, it's fine. BTW, mine is a 2011 Beta Evo 250.
I highly recommend these. Bike feels 15lbs lighter because it's so easy to pull the clutch! Reminds me of my son's beta 80!
Thanks again Dan!
Picture is of stock, washer, new super-fly-trick-space-age-spacer.
It's a HUGE difference! Mine was very inconsistent.... Sometimes fine, other times not. I was killing it when I shouldn't. Now it's always the same. I love it! Do it, you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner.
Dellorto Vhst Carb For Rev3
in Beta
Posted
Forgot to mention we are about 800 feet above sea level.