HI all.I am looking to modify my original 1983 tlr 200 to make it more trials friendly i have changed tyres to michelins and fitted bolt on lowered footpeg mounts. It still has original lighting kit, ignition switch, battery indicator stalks, handlebar controls etc. I would like to modify with higher handlebars and lanyard cut off as a starting point then exhaust and clutch to be looked at. Anyone got any hints ref best way to wire for trials use only?
Last ty 175 was 34 years ago. All works to this one carried out by and credit to previous owner.Have tried it out on some local sections and i find it very easy to ride, light, responsive, grippy.
dabba,Thanks for informative reply, i have ordered a lanyard switch and will hopefully get it fitted this weekend.looks as good without lights etc, see pic. Stuart.
Hi all. After many bultacos i have bought a 1983 honda tlr200 to use in twinshock events, taking a bit of time to get used to four stroke but a really nice bike to ride I have serviced, changed tyres etc.Now have stripped lights, speedo, indicators etc back to push connectors on wiring loom.I need to fit an engine stop lanyard for some events, is it simply a case of following two wires on original kill switch back to loom and connecting on replacement Jitsie etc at this point?. I would like to strip out old key/lights loom and simplify some time in future as strictly off road use now, anyone done this? got any pointers?
Thanks for all advice.New spoke , wheel bearings, brake shoes, sprocket nuts and bolts, rear tyre tubed michelin all fitted to wheel.Ordering rock shocks tonight as old betors unserviceable.
i bought a pattern seat cover from in motion, any advice on how best to stretch/fit/hold to take out wrinkles and fix? .seat base and foam are good.
I am now refurbing rear of bike. I have stripped rear wheel and brake hub, got a couple of broken spokes need replacing on the shorter hub/sprocket side as well as bearing, brake shoes etc.The hub side spoke ends are covered with a circular pressed? shroud/cover, Does anyone know best way to remove/replace it to allow access to spoke ends.i have looked at manuals but no mention.Tried gently levering with no luck, dont want to damage hub.heat?Any knowledge much appreciated.Will post a photo later.
Shock absorber fixing. I tried torx bit hammered in, unfortunately slipped before loosening fixing. Hacksawed a slot next and tried with loads of pressure and a slot width fitting screwdriver, head sheared off fixing under load. I am left with a tiny stub of fixing protruding from female threaded part. Looks like drilling out and rethread or Wurth insert? or cut off entirely from frame and reweld a new mounting boss as last options.
I am starting a rolling refurb of recently purchased matching frame and engine number 199a.Its a bit rough and had frame painted white in past.No oil in clutch or gearbox!. I have replaced badly damaged front rim and chromed hub lining,new brake shoes, new fork seals ,tyre , springs and oil have sorted front end.I am looking for advice please as below.
1.Gearbox refilled with SAE 90, now leaking heavily from drive sprocket seal? or around this area i think! is this a big job to change, most likely point of leakage?
2.Speedo doesnt work, best way to troubleshoot?
3.Swingarm shock absorber mounting fixing cant release one upper allen key fixing as picture, it was badly rounded.Tried loads of release oil, shocking and a little heat with no luck. I need to replace unserviceable existing shocks.
I am planning a running rolling refurb to use in twinshock trials and not as a show bike.Any help much appreciated.
I am now at the stage of a fully rebuillt rolling chassis and looking to refit the engine.I have the FEMSA ht coil set up and im keen not to have to remove the flywheel magneto.My problem is that i only have 3 different coloured wires exiting from behind the magneto and the plate and i would like to fit a kill switch on the handlebar.Every wiring diagram i look at (haynes/clymer manuals ) shows four wires required with one for the kill switch.Is there any way to fit a kill switch without the fourth wire?.I would intend to form a waterproof connection outside the crankcase grommet where my 3 wires at present are cut with fuel pipe waterproofing protection from the grommet as per a previous post in "bultaco today".All/any advice welcome,im fairly competent mechanicallly but electrics confuse me.Thanks in anticipation.Hopefully pictures to follow.Stuart Kerr.
Hello all.Recently returned to bultaco ownership after a 25 year gap.Im looking for advice please.Purchased a very rattly m80 with alloy tank frame number B8001649 to restore and ride.All going well and pretty enjoyable so far:frame welds fixed,resprayed,swing arm bearings, shocks and wheels done,however hit a problem with removing fork bottom section.I have removed full fork assembly as a pair during other work and replaced steering head bearings,now trying to remove bottom section of fork(slider),i have followed clymer and haynes manual instructions and now have chrome section of fork legs individually in a padded vice,removed bottom allen release screw and rubber fork seal dust cover from bottom section,however fork sections wont pull off and separate as suggested but seem to hit a definite stop at full extension,also no sign of any circlip under rubber dust cover on top of fork seal?l.Do i need to reassemble fully on bike and try again?or am i doing something i shouldnt with fork legs individually in vice?i dont want to force too much in case of causing any damageAny help much appreciated.Thanks in advance.
TLR 200 1983 electrics for trials modifications.
in Honda
Posted
Thanks all for replies. Hopefully get onto it this weekend.Stuart.