just got hold of a honda tl125, but it does not run well, starts up without choke, but ticks over nicely from cold and revs well enough, but then once warm is all goes wrong, the idle revs increase when blipping the throttle, it starts to bog down and does not like being under load and then is hard to start, the plug is not sooty, initially i thought condenser so i have replaced this and the coil but its still does it, the points seem in good order and timing seems right. any help appreciated
It's a 220 i believe, but I am not 100% sure and it will only need wiring to run as it will be trials only, so no light, switches etc thank you very much
Anyone know where I can get a tlm rubber manifold from or is there one off another bike that will work, my friends just got a tlm and it is split around where the carb fits, also what keihin carb so we can source a rebuild kit as it seems to be running very rich like the choke is not closing properly. Thanks
I have found the TY175 type work well when mounted to the swing arm on my PJ bike, fit it immediately behind the footrest mount checking the suspension movement arc for clearance between tensioner bolt and frame.
Because they are outside the chain not between chain and tyre mud is not scraped off the tyre by the tensioner arm.
do you have any photos of your set up and the whole bike?
hoping for some input here guys, building a paul Jackson framed cub and struggling with the chain tensioner position, was hoping to get it tucked up behind the peg mount on the swing arm but the chain had clearance issues with the spring when the swingarm moved, I have tried a gasgas/universal/beta tensioners and all have issues mounting in this area, so I have now mounted one on the back of the peg mount, clearance with the chain is the best I have had it and as the swingarm moves the tensioner keeps tension. I like this position but are there any issues with doing it this way?
I thought that because is it still mounted close to the pivot point of the swingarm the difference between the frame position and swingarm position in relation to the pivot point is quite small.
my only other alternative is to move it forward a couple inches to a more conventional position....
if anyone has any suggestions on mounting position and tensioner to use.
It is looking good already, what engine set up will it be 199cc, also are you staying with the Montesa forks?
at the moment I am staying with the monty forks, may change the yokes though a there appears to be a couple degrees rake in them but will see how it rides first, the engine is a pretty standard set up, dellorto carb, electrixworld ignition, standard clutch with alloy pressure plate, gearing- 16 engine/ 13 gearbox/ 62 sprocket, it weighs 77kg currently with no fuel or engine oil.
Depends how much money you want to spend and how original you want the bike.
For something over £1000 Duncan MacDonald can supply new MP forks and yolks
I fitted Betors (from a Montesa) to 1 Cub and Marzocci’s to my Armac Cub. Both out perform my ability. They are also a vast improvement over the original heavyweight forks! It may take a bit of fettling to make them fit and to get the length right.
Hope this helps.
what mods did you have to do to fit the montesa front end, and to make the right length?
my project currently has some 36mm jap forks in that are not really suitable for trials, I am planning to change to bultaco 35mm leading axle forks as I have access to some, my question is what type of yokes? cubs are non parallel with 1.5 degrees in the yokes as standard, but given that I am changing to leading axle forks should I be looking of parallel yokes to compensate for this change or would non parallel ones work without causing issues to trail/rake?
just an update for you all, so far I have identified that the swing arm had been pinched in by about 10mm due the axle not being long enough for the swing arm, the tyre was a trail one and slightly fatter than an irc and the 428 chain was wider than the 420, bits have been ordered and delivered now, and will be fitted shortly.
I am hoping that these small gains in space and with your advise, that I will have it set up better shortly with a little more clearance all round.
the engine is spaced and the rear sprocket, the rear wheel offset is unknown as it is only a new bike to me not a new build, what should the rim offset be in relation to the hub? also though if the rim is moved to the sprocket side to put it in the middle of the swingarm the tyre would be in contact with the chain, then if I spaced the sprocket and engine more the chain would run through the rear shock
mikuni carb set up on tiger cub
in Pre-65 Bikes
Posted
100 main jet and 30 pilot worked for me dave
Stuart