I second the Maxxis Trialmaxx. I had one on the rear of my heavy-ass DR350 and while there was some cracking around the knobs I didn't actually lose any. They wear quickly compared to an MT43 or similar but they still lasted for hundreds of miles of road use and the grip is vastly superior. They'd probably last better on a lighter bike too.
I might prefer a longer lasting tyre on a trail bike but for something as focused as a 4ride I'd definately go with the Trailmaxx.
The silencer was very dented in on my Sons bike, I cut it open along top and bottom seams and 2/3 across front from tail pipe. straightened out, did partial repack and tig welded back together and is much better looking & sounding. If your gonna open it up, I suggest you take the extra time and effort to open it completely and clean it out fully as the remaining sludge and oil will get hot and ''gas'' on you and can make welding up a pain.
My hope was that I could cut a window rather than splitting the thing in half. That way I could use rivets or screws and castle nuts to attach a new sheet of aluminium over the hole rather than welding the thing back up. The benefit of this is that if I needed to repack it again in a year or two it would be much easier.
The drawback is, I think, that extracting the old packing and putting the new stuff in would be more difficult and maybe impractical.
15 hours ago, pmk said:
Somewhere on the internet, there is a set of photos about accomplishing this. I thought they were linked on the laptop but apparently not. I searched quickly with no luck. I think the guy is from Italy that did the repack.
That would be extremely useful if you remember where you saw it. I've had a look but I can't find any information or pictures.
In a similar vein, does anyone have any tips or pics on SY silencer repacking? I originally planned to cut a window in the side to repack and then cover it with a new aluminium sheet, but I've been told this is a bad idea. New silencers are no longer available it seems.
I have a 2011 Caddy Maxi and it's just long enough for an enduro bike with the bulkhead fitted. A trials bike goes in easily but I'm surprised to hear that the standard Caddy is long enough unless maybe you put it in diagonally.
I looked at the Connect when I was buying but the new shape ones were out of my price range. IIRC the connect is slightly taller inside or at least has a high roof option. While the Caddy is high enough for a trials bike it is a bit awkward when you and the bike are in there and you are trying to reach around it to strap it down. Having doors on both sides (standard I think) helps a lot though. If you want to carry anything taller than a trials bike the low roof is a real drag - you need to remove the handlebars. The Caddy isn't as boxy as most vans which exacerbates the low roof issue.
I don't think you've typed what you meant to say there.........
I've never seen one on a trials bike like that, on the exit, though my experience of modern bikes is only Rev3 and 4RT. Earlier machines I had all were filtered on the entry.
But, given that the filter is made specifically for the bike, no matter whether concave or convex, the dirty side should be the coarse face, its purpose being to stop the "sma' coals" before they reach the fine filter.
On all (non trials) bikes I've seen the air filter looks something like this with the filter at the exit to the airbox:
So you want the coarse mesh on the 'outside' of the filter.
Obviously this is not what you want on the Scorpa; you want the coarse mesh on the 'inside' of the filter. I was just saying that the only reason I could see for Jitsie doing it as they did was that they copied an OEM filter without knowing how it went into the Scorpa airbox. They might have assumed it was like the picture above. Granted it seems pretty weird that they would make a mistake like that but it was the best reason I could come up with.
It occurred to me that the breather hoses could also be an issue. As shown in the picture the top two hoses are fairly short and the bottom one is only about an inch long. Perhaps water and dirt are getting to the carb through them when riding through streams etc.. Does anyone know what they are supposed to look like?
I can't see what difference it would make where the filter is in relation to entrance/exit of the box as you would surely want the coarse side facing the incoming air regardless, if it was to serve any useful filtration purpose.
Yeah, but on most bikes the convex side of the filter faces the incoming air since the filter sits on the airbox exit with the convex side facing inwards.
Thanks for all the replies. I'm coming to this from trail riding on a DR350 and I'm used to having a muddy airbox - the difference is that the DR350 filter is on the airbox exit rather than the entrance!
I am pretty confident that water is not getting in by flowing over the top of the airbox so I thought it must be getting in through the same hole as the air and overwhelming the filter. It is a new Jitsie filter.
On 2/9/2018 at 1:37 PM, pmk said:
I want to ask, is the air filter assembly complete? When I say this, does your bike have the rectangular plastic frame, that supports the foam filter flanged edge, forcing a tight seal around the foam perimeter to the airbox?
Yes it is complete and clamps down very tightly and evenly. This fact plus the fact that the airbox is a complete plastic unit unlike some bikes (KTM) is what made me think the filter was being overwhelmed.
On 2/9/2018 at 1:37 PM, pmk said:
Other areas to inspect for dirt entry, the several holes that secure the mudflap as stock, must be plugged. They are open holes into the airbox. Also, there was an upper dust guard, under the fender, it too was secured with screws. Those too may be possible leaks.
Thank you for this - I didn't realise the screw holes went all the way through and after shining a torch in there I see that they do. I think they were sealed up but I'll double check when I reassemble.
On 2/9/2018 at 1:42 PM, pmk said:
One more item to inspect, the rubber airboot, between the carb and airbox. I suspect it is not torn.
Look close at this detail. If the airboot aft clamp, that secures the airboot to the airbox is overtightened, or has been previously, the airbox spigot may crush and no longer be round. This will create a gap, unsealed. I had read where another owner had this issue, and utilized a slice of metal tubing to support the airbox spigot. This allowed full tightening of the clamp.
This could well be the issue. If stuff was getting in through the filter or through holes in the airbox in small quantities I would expect it to fall down into the lower 'horn' of the airbox rather than be sucked through the high exit to the carb. I'll have a good look out for this when I reassemble.
1 hour ago, pmk said:
I see several of the recent posts recommend the Jitsie air filter. I recently installed the same in my Scorpa.
Did anyone else notice, the filter has the coarse foam on the clean side of the airbox, while the fine foam is the first filter media. Seems Jitsie has it backwards.
Yes! I almost sent mine back but couldn't be bothered. It's really bizarre as it seem nicely made otherwise; I can only assume that the designer had never seen a Scorpa airbox and assumed it was like all other bikes which have the filter on the exit rather than the entrance. Unless the Scorpa arrangement is common on trials bikes?
I bought a 2008 SY250 recently and I'm having trouble with dirt getting through my air filter.
I cleaned out the airbox and put a new Jitsie filter in when I got the bike. After one ride I cleaned the filter and saw some dirt and water in the airbox. I read about sealing the gap between the plastics and airbox so I did this carefully with foam tape and it seems to be a good seal. Nevertheless, after one ride there was more dirt and water in the airbox. I should add that the PO made quite an effort to prevent water getting in, including a sheet of rubber pulled across between the swingarm and airbox to stop churned up water from the wheel getting in.
It hasn't been running right so I took the carb out and there were chunks of mud at the entrance. I stripped it and the main jet holder was packed with mud!
I'm having trouble believing that this is normal since I haven't been able to find any mention of it on here. Do Scorpa owners just deal with having to regularly clean out their carb? The only thing I can imagine might be causing it is that the DIY rear mudflap done by the PO might somehow not be doing the job and mud/water might be being thrown by the rear wheel and up to the top of the shock where the airbox draws air in. It looks pretty good though.
Decent trials tyre
in General Trials Talk
Posted
I second the Maxxis Trialmaxx. I had one on the rear of my heavy-ass DR350 and while there was some cracking around the knobs I didn't actually lose any. They wear quickly compared to an MT43 or similar but they still lasted for hundreds of miles of road use and the grip is vastly superior. They'd probably last better on a lighter bike too.
I might prefer a longer lasting tyre on a trail bike but for something as focused as a 4ride I'd definately go with the Trailmaxx.