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Mark97

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About Mark97

  • Rank
    New Member

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  • Bike
    Yamaha TY175

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  • Location
    Essex

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  1. feetup, thank you for your response, fitted the chain fired it up and the clutch seemed to work perfectly as I rode around the garden, so as you advised it was purely drag. It shows what a great resource these forums are, especially to us newbies, thank you!!! Mark
  2. Hi all just resurrecting the topic, Took the engine out to get the frame powder-coated, and took the clucth arm off to de-rust the arm and paint it, also removed the flywheel and clutch covers to clean them up. The engine was stripped for approx 2 months drained of oil etc while i carried out the work, cleaning etc. I have now rebuilt the bike, new cables etc. I have started the bike up and it seem to run well, I have no chain installed, so when I selected the first gear, it went in fine and the front sprocket turned, but when dipping the clutch, the front sprocket still turns. I switched the bike off and with the bike in 1st and the clutch pulled in, turning the front sprocket by hand is trying to turn the engine over, so it was not just a case of drag on the clutch. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I need to do to make the clutch work? It was working before the bike was stripped down and I have tried adjusting the adjuster screw near the rear sprocket, but this does not seem to do much, the clutch arm has some minor marks on the tapered face but barely perceptible. Could the shaft fall out that transmits the motion to the clutch? my understanding is that this is captive and comes out the clutch side only. When looking at the bike from the left hand side, the clutch arm is at rest at just before the 12 oclock position. Regards Mark
  3. Hi, As part of my makeover of my TY175 I am going to paint the engine. The clutch release arm and spring are a little bit rusty and I was considering taking it out and having it zinc plated. As the clutch was replaced recently I do not want to remove that, is removing the release arm as simple as loosening the nut and screw on the left hand side of the crankcase and sliding it out? If so I am presuming the refitting is just the reverse process? Regards Mark
  4. Mark97

    Crankcase damage

    Goudrons, thats good to know, so if I do split the cases i can drop a 2p into the area of the casing where the plastic cap was I am assumin it needs tapping into position or is it held in position by the change drum? Regards Mark
  5. Mark97

    Crankcase damage

    Thanks everyone for your comments, I will rebuild with a new chain tensioner and keep the existing crankcase half but keep an eye out for a replacement. Thank you. Mark
  6. Mark97

    Crankcase damage

    Oni, the screw and bolt for the clutch adjuster arm is still intact, it sits slightly ahead of the piece that's damaged, in my image its obscured by by the index finger, so hopefully the clutch adjustment will not be an issue. Looking at exploded diagrams as Feetupfun says the shift drum seems to sit there, I did not know whether a bearing of some description (i'm new to this) so hopefully as shifting does not seem to be a problem and there was not an oil leak I will keep it as is, at least for the time being and look for a replacement casing or someone who can repair it in the longer term. Are all TY175 casings from all years the same or are there differences on different years productions? Thank you. Mark
  7. Mark97

    Crankcase damage

    The red mark on the image above shows the location of the damage, the steel cap is the black circle. I have not split the crankcase so was wondering what is behind the piece that is damaged? does a shaft of some description sit in there? Regards Mark
  8. Mark97

    Crankcase damage

    Hi, I am a newbie member but I have purchased a Yamaha TY 175 1980 to do some twinshock trials for fun. I have stripped the bike down for a light restoration, but on removing the flywheel cover spotted some black silicone to the front and slightly above the front sprocket and behind the clutch adjustment screw/bolt. Removing the silicone revealed what looks like Quick Steel type repair putty had been used. The bike had not been leaking from this location, and the area of damage looks quite small. My concern is that in this location there appears to be a small steel cap pressed in to the aluminium casting, what is this for? Am I OK to ignore it as the sproket seems to rotate freely and smoothly or should I look at getting it welded properly? I would need to locate someone who welds alloy in Essex. I have looked for replacement crank case halves but they seem to be in short supply. any advice would be greatly appreciated. Regards Mark
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