So ... I put everything back together.I did notice the thicker friction plate was in the outermost position
(closest to the clutch case cover ,I re installed it in the innermost position. I did not sand the friction plates , thought
I would try to find some thinner plates and try that first. The clutch fluid was very dirty so I flushed the lines and removed the top hat
and cleaned that out also. Everything is back together now ,clutch is a little bit easier . Something new has come up since
doing all this,now when I pull the clutch in the bike wants to creep forward so the clutch is not fully disengaging. Bleeding the clutch took a while to get all the air bubbles out but it now feels very solid . Could the creeping forward when clutch is engaged be anything else other than air still being trapped in the system ?
The higher the fingers, the more leverage felt at the clutch lever. Too high of fingers they could rub on the case. Originally you could buy different thickness of steel plates. All good things go to sh-t so in todays world you have to sand the friction plates. (Or burn the clutch wildly against a wall) The 17.5 is straight down from the highest point of the fingers. That is what matters most! Sure you can measure the total thickness, but that what really matters is when it is all tightened up.
Got it... Thanks Lineaway. I'll do some sanding of the friction plates tomorrow.
Howdy Bri. Since you're in Alberta ... head to your local Canadian Tire and buy a pail of the Shell Rotella T5 10W30 Semi-synthetic diesel oil. It even goes on sale at times. The performance seems good as well as its low cost is conducive to frequent changes. Enjoy.
Hi d2w.I've used the rotella in dual sport bikes I've had and It seemed to work fine but I've been told by a few trials dealers
now that I should not use synthetic oil in the trials bike,I geuss due to the heavy clutch usage. I take it you've been using it
Trials riding area's in southern Arizona ?
in USA Trials
Posted
That's very helpfull info, Thanks very much magnapoxy.