moved the bike to another shed and the float valve dropped out - had to buy another one of those before anything happened.
fitted the 110 jet slight improvement - adjusted the needle as far as it could go
plan is to fit 120 jet and see if it gets better.
if not then 125 or 130 jet.
I do think it is a fuelling issue that will be fixed by a bigger main jet and have one on order.
funny I was recommended an electronic ignition but they are expensive, luckily my points is good and I have a backup stator/ignition. - I fitted one to a cr250 because I had no other choice- the cdi's die and replacements are rare as hens teeth - was not impressed with the fit of the pickup to the flywheel despite a lot of tinkering, I cant remember the clearance I got but it was a very small feeler gauge. it did start. I am bringing this bike back home to finish and am quite excited I done all the linkage bushes on this one and it should be very tight and the engine is good.
put new condensor - used 12v from a nissan car - it looked the same.
I earthed the condenser to the coil and got all my wires going to the coil and soldered the whole bunch together.
I removed the flywheel and disconnected the old condenser isolated it and got all the wires that were connected to it and soldered the whole lot together.
I gapped and cleaned the points
the old condenser was not bad and this helped the bike marginally.
I can rule out the ignition now - the bike was supplied with a working ignition and it was.
my carb is a phbh26PS
I dont think Eurocarb lists this particular model to get the specs from.
My Carb is completely different I think the slide is stamped 110 or 90 or something
wonder should i just get a working carb off a swm 280. trying to tune a carb that the maker does not list seems like a lot of faffing around. then again fitting an X7 needle might solve the problem
its the needle jet at fault the bike wont rev high but you could lug it about all day
I am also confused where this main jet is - i thought there was usually 3 jets in a carb pilot jet needle jet and choke jet?
The bike bogs down after quarter throttle and creates a lot of smoke under load.
It starts and idles fine and will start first kick when hot, 2/3 kicks on choke cold, and if its lay up for a month it will need a spray of starting fluid but always starts
I have tried to adjust the fuel screw and needle height and even replaced the needle for an X2 and needle jet for i think av266 or As266
engine revs crisp in neutral, I had thought it was running good and was surprised when it bogged so badly
starting to think it could be the condenser but my only reason to back this is a post I read about a users bike "4 Stroking" and bogging they replaced the condenser and problem solved. I do have a good spark it can be seen and heard.
Another user posted how to mount the new condenser under the tank. Does the flywheel have to come off to fit?
I don't want to start accumulating carb jets and I feel the timing is ok as there is no detonation
I used the bike to feed sheep all winter due to the low gears and I didn't rev the engine so just got by this way. now I need the revs to round up the sheep.
the plug is a rich condition oily petrol mix black.
the airbox is missing a basic filter is mounted but this would mean more air and possibly a lean condition so its not that.
please advise easiest or best way to mount new condenser or suggestions welcome
After a full strip and rebuild i am having a problem
The gears are selecting as I can hear them click and I checked them before continuing the engine however i have no drive. The clutch also wanted to move the bike forward when pulled in. It is almost as if the drive was not getting to the input shaft of the gearbox. New clutch plates were fitted and gears were all ok with no broken teeth or dogs. A bearing was replaced on the gearbox shaft.
I cannot look at the bike until Monday evening. I would appreciate your input.
The front half is very tight and stubborn. It's starting to go but I'm not taking any chances. I've ordered a case splitter tool. There won't be much progress until this arrives.
Was unable to select a gear but the 2 shafts are turning free inside the gearbox
It's either stuck in neutral or in a gear
I think it's the shift mechanism causing the bother the gearbox is good on this one
Hopefully take the side cover off and something might be obvious. Just a case of examining closer.
Got new bars on and the clutch working so that's ok just the shifter mechanism.
EDIT= I searched the internet and it's looking more like a case split job. Martinswm talks about a tensioner arm jamming behind the shift barrel and This seems the most likely thing. This would explain why it's in neutral. I can imagine such a thing from my kx125 build. Can I use the old crank seals or do I need new seals? I don't want them to fold over when removing the crank and shafts. When this is done she will run.
I'm working at her this Saturday so I'll take a picture
so the clutch assembly attaches to the case and unless you take it off on purpose it remains in place say even if you remove the side cover to work at the clutch , is that correct?
And the cable connects to part number 7 is that correct?
Today I started up the tx 240 for the very first time
she pinged into life after turning the air screw about 1.5 turns out and idled just fine
what a beautiful lazy engine in comparison to my bonkers kx125 and all those horrid chainsaws I have been fixing recently to make a bit extra.
not much to report
have to source a few parts mainly a clutch lever, bars, chain, and some kind of air filter.
Does the clutch cable just attach to an arm of some type to push the clutch? Should there be a rubber to keep dirt out between the clutch cover and the cable . Or does the cable fit in and seal itself in.
we can say there is one more aprilia tx about now. Thanks to the effort and skills of many people.
I was able to take off the clutch cover and move the intake boot so that the carb would go on. All that holds it on is a hose clamp. One of the dowels is actually a bolt hole too.
I got the engine mounted apart from the broken stud. It will need an m6 nut welded on, heated up and slackened that way. It took some prying with a prybar to get it lined up. It was either the heat of the fire or just the Italian way. Here I called on my experience of fitting gearboxes to cars along with my experience of bikes.
I think the next step is to get spark and start her up
I feel the broken stud can wait to such times suited to delicate work
I really do feel we are getting very close to the first start
I do notice this is a very large cylinder, I think it's a 311 engine it's definitely the largest displacement bike i own now. If anybody knows what the actual cc is please advise.
I can't praise enough how good of a job has been done with the engine i think the crank has even been rebuilt it is basically a brand new engine.
I need to rotate the intake boot to the outside by a bit less than 180 degrees as the motor is actually off a Swm hoping if i loosen the clutch cover it will just move a bit.
Front engine mounts may need to be adjusted but it's held by one stud so it's going nowhere
New points on the motor and every bearing has been done in the bottom end. This motor also makes a lot of compression.
Plan is
to get the engine fully mounted by either making new front mount brackets or play around with the ones there
Trace the pickup or signal from the points and get spark
fire her up
Make a chain slider
Put chain back on
Go test ride
Tidy up front forks do seals
Tidy up few wee bits
Then enjoy the tx240
I may not repaint her only cover bare metal but leave her vintage
Tldr : engine in. bit of adjustment needed but very minor work.
The engine has arrived and is in my possession. Due to the way things are at the moment I can’t get to the frame to get the engine in. However patience will win and I’m not putting my dearest friends at risk over a bike.
Allen’s used trials spares got the engine for me for which I am very grateful.
Here is the engine
I am also building at a 1992 kx125
and a 1990 CR250
Hopefully these photos and the much awaited news of an engine for the tx will lift your spirits in these challenging times.
If you would like more information about my bikes please ask
Tx 240 engine
in Aircooled Monoshocks
Posted
Hi all
moved the bike to another shed and the float valve dropped out - had to buy another one of those before anything happened.
fitted the 110 jet slight improvement - adjusted the needle as far as it could go
plan is to fit 120 jet and see if it gets better.
if not then 125 or 130 jet.
I do think it is a fuelling issue that will be fixed by a bigger main jet and have one on order.
funny I was recommended an electronic ignition but they are expensive, luckily my points is good and I have a backup stator/ignition. - I fitted one to a cr250 because I had no other choice- the cdi's die and replacements are rare as hens teeth - was not impressed with the fit of the pickup to the flywheel despite a lot of tinkering, I cant remember the clearance I got but it was a very small feeler gauge. it did start. I am bringing this bike back home to finish and am quite excited I done all the linkage bushes on this one and it should be very tight and the engine is good.
good to talk to you all again. 👍