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  1. Thanks for noticing the sprocket. Now that it’s operational. (Has to adjust a bit this morning but now it’s all good.) I’ll look into replacing other things. Pretty happy and and wow what a work out. Also shorts not such a good idea lol.
  2. I also wondered about this. I thought my headset was clunking but nope just a lot of slop on the front disk. Thanks for asking saved me the trouble.
  3. Soo first I’d like to thank everyone who helped this novice mechanic figure out some stuff. After a month of waiting and trying to figure out how to get the actuator out which was surprisingly easy once it was explained, I believe I’ve fixed her. For the price of a cable actuator from the hell team in Australia. Would have been on the bike already with no issues if scorpa didn’t dick around and go hydraulic!!!! Good news is. It’s still hydraulic. And thanks to China for making weird **** that costs 12$ USA. I need to fill the engine with motul transoil tomorrow and some coolant and see if my fix works. So far I can’t see why it wouldn’t! Brief explanation of what I’ve done and my mildly insane way of thinking. 1. Get actuator arm then freak out because there is no room for it with the mid exhaust shape. 2. Freak out a bit because I haven’t a clue what I’m doing and think I need to tear down entire engine to get new actuator installed. Thankfully that wasn’t the case. It was quite simple. No issues and no loss of small ball bearing with the pushrod. 3. Contact multiple people for possible welding of mid exhaust after planning on cutting it to make room for actuator. Final decision on that was mark the room needed with a black marker. Take to lawn which is softer than a workbench and beat with my #2 bronze mallet till it fit. 4 attach 12$ part. Pics to follow. Mess with washers and stuff so it won’t fall out. Fill line with fluid. Test. Adjust some more. Yell a bit at it with some not so nice words. Then cut some part of it so it fits. And connect to actuator. Pull lever. Presto!!!! Works visually so far. Tomorrow will tell. 5 post a 5 part post about what you did then add some pics. Video wont upload of the hymec style hydraulic pull rod conversion part from China. But the pics are there. It’s not perfect but the bike would have been scrap and I didn’t pay much for it because of the slave ordeal. So if anyone else has a bike that they just want running and have no other ideas this is what I’ve done. It’s hack but I’m strangely proud of my old ass. Thank you you everyone who replied to my other post of me asking for help. It’s much appreciated.
  4. I bought this actuator arm from the hell team in Australia. Just got scared thinking of pulling the motor out and apart to change it out. But from what you are saying I just need to take the push rod pressure off it and should be able to pull it out and pop the new cable one in? I think that’s what I’m hearing. Ive had street bikes and this trials bike is new to me but it’s a bit of a nightmare with the hydraulic clutch setup. Can’t fix that so I’m doing what I think will get it setup. Im old lol. And already took it to a mechanic for no good reason and that didn’t work out. So I’m doing this on my own now and have only you great folks to help with my dumb questions. I did manage to beat the mid pipe into a shape that will allow this whole thing to work out in the end hopefully.
  5. So is the actuator just being held in by the rod pressure? No cir clip or anything? I’m ok working with a Briggs and Stratton or a stihl motor but clutches and all the rest freak me out.
  6. Has anyone changed or replaced the actuator arm on a sy250? Just tore it down and it looks like a full engine open is necessary. This may be above my skill level. In theory my conversion to cable will work I just don’t know how to get the old actuator arm out and replace it with the cable version I bought.
  7. Well I’ve ordered the parts. I have no idea what I’m doing but I have a neighbor who can weld aluminum so I’m thinking of cutting out a section of the mid muffler and welding it back up so the actuator can move under it and not have an issue. All I can do as the slave cylinder is garbage and not able to get a new one. I’ll post whenever I get it going. This is my first trials bike and so far a bit of a nightmare but I’m determined to ride it. And hopefully get a bunch of years out of it. And if this works maybe help others in the same situation.
  8. So I think my slave cylinder is toast. Had the clutch working for 2 short runs and then fluid started p****** out the front. And now I have decided to go cable. The scorpa actuator has been repaired and not at the correct angle either. Can’t keep throwing money at rebuild kits so I’m going to try to get a cable going which should be a slow process and lots of messing about with the shape of the exhaust. Thanks for everyones help. Now I just need to figure out the cable I will need for this thing.
  9. The mechanic has the bike until the weekend. I’m surprised he can’t figure it out. But I’ll give this a try. To his credit he’s never seen a trials bike nor this type of hydraulic clutch nonsense Does your actuator arm have a bunch of play to it? I thought it may have been more serious and tried to see if the clutch springs would prove to feel normal but it felt like I may bugger something up using a screwdriver as a lever against the case so I stopped. I’ll see when I get it back if it’s not gonna work out. I’m wondering if it’s bent or stretched but not to the naked eye? And could I compensate with a home made remedy like a longer screw as the adjustable push thing on the actuator arm. Ill update when it’s home again and I have time to try to sort it out. He said he can’t keep pressure in the line and the pin thing goes crooked when he gets it to push the actuator arm. I’m guessing I can tinker as I now have an idea as to how it’s supposed to work. Thank you so much for responding. Everyone is so helpful. I’m 41 moved from a big city for a better life so now I can try to do a sport I could not afford when I was 20. I have the space now and feel like I bought a nightmare. Only 500$ but it’s still annoying with no clutch. With the info I have now I should be able to get it going. As long as the internals are ok. Mechanic seems to think it’s all fine with exception of the clutch nonsense.
  10. Huge thank you to everyone that’s helped. As of an hour ago. I took my maiden ride on a fully functional clutch. Mechanic I guess tried to help. Told me what problems he had with it. I told them to stop working on it after 3 hours Labour. It was just the slave rebuild after all. Got the bike back basically in a box. So now I know how to put it together. And what not to do. Banjo bolt out of the slave wasn’t terribly tight so leak out the back. Quick bit of tinkering and re assemble all the exhaust and stuff and she worked great. I believe the actuator screw part broke at some point and it he pin isn’t aligned perfect but it works for now. My my wife is pretty happy too. We met thru bikes and had to give it up for a while. She said. Finally something not useless. Lol. Thanks again all. And I’m going to start practicing as soon as I can.
  11. Thanks. The info I’m being given is starting to clear things up. Going to go pick the bike up in whatever state it’s in now next weekend and see what I can figure out. How much force does does it take to move the push rod with the actuator? Could I move the arm with my fingers? Or maybe a tool? Mechanic doesn’t think anything is wrong inside. I’d just like to feel the springs doing they’re job before opening it up. I ask this because there seemed to be a bit of play which may be normal but I’m no expert. And if the arm has bent over time as suggested it may be the reason. Ill see if I can update the issues some time in the next week or so. And post pics if that’s helpful.
  12. Hi all. Picked up a 2004 sy250 with a bad slave cylinder I think. Took it with a rebuild kit to my neighborhood Yamaha fixer and he’s stumped. So I’ve searched around the globe looking for a new slave cylinder but have been told it’s probably not gonna happen. So now I’m trying to figure out how to convert to a cable. I don’t expect to be in any competition I just want to mess around and learn some of the basics. My other thought is that the actuator and push push rods may be worn a bit as there is a bit of play in the actuator arm and I have nothing to compare to so maybe I’m just a bit confused. If if anyone has changed to cable maybe some tips for what I need to make (mod) and what cable to use as I’m used to bicycle cables being cut to size not coming at the correct size. Thanks in advance.
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