Frankly, the handlebar switchgear on the 21’s is crap. My prediction is your map button will be the next to leave the chat, followed shortly after by your throttle. (Ask me how I know!)
I should have smelled a rat when the dealer gave me a couple of sandwich bags to tie over the handlebars on the slightly drizzly day I bought it after he saw I was trailering it home! (No joke).
To fix I ended up shelling out for the newer style (‘22-on) combined map button and indicator light which in fairness does seem better quality and plugged straight in.
I did actually open the old map indicator light up to attempt a repair. Inside I found what appears to be a fairly generic RGB LED module (WS2812B), and I even ordered a pack of 10 of them off eBay for a fiver to solder a replacement iin. Unfortunately my map button had also given up before I got around to it, at which point so had I. So I relented, dropped my trousers, and got shafted for the EM part. (It’s probably not a viable repair job anyway, the design and sealing of the housing is the problem, letting moisture in to the LED module).
If it’s any consolation, you do get a ‘spare’ button you can use to enable regen braking if you don’t already have the optional lever. Although I found it a bit awkward to use because of where it is, and it won’t be ‘progressive’, just on/off.
Just FYI, if (when) the time comes.you can also ‘upgrade’ to the newer Domino throttle in the same way. Although the original throttle is somewhat mechanically serviceable (mine needed a strip and clean to fix a binding issue), you just need to pay attention to clocking the throttle tube gear correctly to the potentiometer gear when reassembling, but I digress!
Is anyone using S3 Bar Ends on a EPure? I'm trying to figure out which model bar ends to get. #5 or TOO? I guess the question is does the EPure have a closed or open throttle tube?
I’ve got the #5 ends on mine because I wanted the throttle tube ‘bearing’.
Although the throttle tube is open ended, the plastic bearing provided with the S3 kit is a nice snug fit inside throttle tube. So I glued it in flush with the end using cyanoacrylate gel (superglue!).
Worked a treat and it does seem to improve the throttle action slightly.
I've just picked up a used Epure Race and just done a precautionary oil change, my plug looked very similar.
Not sure exactly how much the bike has done with the previous owner, but based on condition and what the dealer told me, I'd say it's less than 10 hours.
I'd like to think that there wont be as much on the plug at the next change.
I've bought Enduristan XS base pack and S blizzard saddle bags. WTF, bags on a trial bike !? Yeah - the idea is to have the XS base pack attached to the bike most of the time and to remove it when doing "trial only" stuff, and to attach the saddle bags only when going in the woods for an overnight. The XS pack fits well (there are openings between the metal frame and the rear plastic where the straps can be slid). Note: there should only be a very light load on the rear - the metal frame above the rear wheel is bolted to the plastic air box (the user manual clearly states that there should be no load at all, but it will handle a few pounds). The saddle bags are another story and require some tinkering because the bike's rear is pretty thin, the exhaust is short and the only way to attach the lower straps without adding custom hardware is to slide them through the foot pegs. If anybody's interested I'll post a pic when/if I manage to find a good solution. I'm also wondering how to attach additional 1L or 1.5L fuelfriend cans to the saddle bags but I'll wait until I have a better idea of the fuel consumption.
Thanks for the write up. I'd be interested to see your luggage setup. I'm thinking about adding a 4Ride to my collection and I'd like to do some long-distance over-night trips on it, and I already have the exact same Enduristan bags as you!
Map Indicator Light
in EM (Electric Motion)
Posted
Yes I had exactly the same symptoms as you.
Frankly, the handlebar switchgear on the 21’s is crap. My prediction is your map button will be the next to leave the chat, followed shortly after by your throttle. (Ask me how I know!)
I should have smelled a rat when the dealer gave me a couple of sandwich bags to tie over the handlebars on the slightly drizzly day I bought it after he saw I was trailering it home! (No joke).
To fix I ended up shelling out for the newer style (‘22-on) combined map button and indicator light which in fairness does seem better quality and plugged straight in.
I did actually open the old map indicator light up to attempt a repair. Inside I found what appears to be a fairly generic RGB LED module (WS2812B), and I even ordered a pack of 10 of them off eBay for a fiver to solder a replacement iin. Unfortunately my map button had also given up before I got around to it, at which point so had I. So I relented, dropped my trousers, and got shafted for the EM part. (It’s probably not a viable repair job anyway, the design and sealing of the housing is the problem, letting moisture in to the LED module).
If it’s any consolation, you do get a ‘spare’ button you can use to enable regen braking if you don’t already have the optional lever. Although I found it a bit awkward to use because of where it is, and it won’t be ‘progressive’, just on/off.
Just FYI, if (when) the time comes.you can also ‘upgrade’ to the newer Domino throttle in the same way. Although the original throttle is somewhat mechanically serviceable (mine needed a strip and clean to fix a binding issue), you just need to pay attention to clocking the throttle tube gear correctly to the potentiometer gear when reassembling, but I digress!