lineaway, I haven't noticed that it changes the way the bike handles. Not sure why it would but I'm sure some scientist out there is about to tell me how it does.
PS if that's a photo of you climbing a bloody great rock then I have to say I don't try that kind of thing on my TY so perhaps they might not be for you.
Basically people are buying homes or building on plots of land near motor sport venues and then complaining about the noise and trying to get these events shutdown.
Looking for some help on a front tyre. I have been looking at the Michelin X light front tyre and was wondering if anybody has tried one (on a TY175), just wanted to know any good or bad points.
Yes mate your right it does say that, and I have the longer rear shocks fitted also. Mine is still dropped down 20mm. The problem I found is that with the fork tubes up high they tend to flex even more than normal and the rake on the forks makes it handle more like a chopper. Like you said give a try lower and you should notice less wash out of the front wheel. As for the risers there was a bit on here..somewhere. I chopped of the original clamps and drilled through to accept some clamps and risers off a husquvana motocross bike (£10 off eBAY), I did fit a bit of plate under the yoke where the casting is thinner so to bolt down on. It works treat and gets rid of that tiller effect that the pull back existing clamps have.
Good luck with trial on sunday, you will have to get down to Suffolk and do some of our twinshock trials
Glad you have improved the running of your bike. How do you get on with the forks mounted high in the yokes, looks like the tubes are nearly flush with the yokes. I used have problems with the front washing out on a tight turn with them mounted high. Recommend drop in yokes is 20mm. Thought I would just mention it...sorry if you knew
Hi, the only time I had a real bad knock on low revs was when my pilot jet got a bit blocked. I have the Boyesens fitted on mine and with the fitting instructions it did say that you might have to go up a couple of jet sizes. I'm currently running on a 30. Like I said the knock was caused by a blocked pilot and even with the Boyesens fitted it still ran ok on a 25 a 27.5 and now the 30. Dont forget to adjust the air mixture screw after fitting new piolt jet.
The bike is an AJS Stormer, not exactly pre65 but I know the principal in fitting and reaming the bush should be similar for most bikes...I would have thought. The info I have found would suggest you just draw a new one and and ream by an adjustable reamer, but then others say it has to be reamed to within a thou of being true with the crank. Others mention all sorts of horror stories when its not just spot on. Anyway was just looking for a bit of advice on how to get things as near to spot on by doing it myself....take it to an engineering workshop perhaps would be a better answer. By the way the crank is out but still attached to the Conrod.
Sorry b40rt but what is Rupert Ratio page 71 all about?
Just looking for some advice please. Had a quick look on the Internet regarding the fitting of bronze little end bushes and what I thought would be an easy job of drawing in a new bush an sizing it using an adjustable reamer is in-fact not so simple. Concerns are keeping things true, not taking out too much with a reamer and so on.
Somebody who was supposedly in the know told me that Yamaha was considering reproducing the engine in a 200 version, no mention of a new frame. Anyone else heard any rumours ?
Hi, with the engine cold start it up and grab around the barrel with both hands and get somebody to rev the engine. If it sounds better then get some heat resistant tube and stick it between the fins. My mates TY175 did sound like a bag of old nails after he rebored it but it got better the more he ran it, it now sounds fine.
Hi, I guess everyone has their own ways of running in. I normally run the bike on just over tickover for about 1 min then let it cool, do the same again for about 5 min give it a bit more revs and then stage the runs up to about 30 mins. Its always worked for me and if you do the classic trials that should be enough to give the engine an easy life anyway. With regards the oil I normally just use some semi synthetic, somebody has mentioned in the past that the full synthetic is not the best for an iron bore.
Hi, strip the clutch down and check the clutch basket tangs, where the plates catch you will probably find small grooves, get a file and flatten the edge. The plates tend to stick in the grooves and that can cause drag, check clutch spring lengths also as odd sizes can cause uneven lift of the pressure plate.
I made one several years ago out of fibreglass, I thought it was an improvement on the original, I found the old link for when I posted it here some time back. If your interested its here http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/21102-ty175/
If you look on the Dave Cooper website the Senior rack for big wheel bikes will carry 130kg and the TY175 weighs in a 81kg according to the Haynes manual, but then it does say he TY125 is 93kg, something wrong there but either way It looks like you will be ok.
Majesty Identification
in Yamaha
Posted
I think you might have a problem getting a V5 as it wasn't a standard road bike. Hopefully I'm wrong.