Ainsley

I have some Putoline Light Gear Oil (which I think has a viscosity of 98 according to their website) Bit annoying as the bloody bottle doesn't actually state the SAE number. I also have some Putoline ATF (which I think has a viscosity of 175 according to their website) I got them from In Motion Trials, but have forgotten which one to use in the Gearbox and which one to use in the Clutch. I would ring them up, but its Sunday and the sun is shining and I really want to ride my bike.

Yeah, I spoke to them, they don't do that service, but have been very helpful. They told me that the chromed hubs when the bikes were new were rubbish, so suggested re machining / lining. I'm off to take the hubs to some bloke up near Bewdley who can sort them. After I've removed the rims and spokes

Ah, good point about a magnet. Will try that later. Wheel bearings are new, no grooves in the drum, but it is worn. The new rear shoes hardly touch the drum. I will find someone who can re machine the drums and see what they reckon, either re machine + thicker shoes or re line them. I spoke to Villiers Services and he recommended someone in / near Kidderminster who relines / re machines hubs, apparently he is a Bultaco fan. Anyone know of him ?

I'm not sure my wheels are originals. They don't have any liners in them. Im assuming the lining will be very obvious when looking. I think they are from possibly an M80 model, as that's the frame my M27 engine is in. The hubs inside just look like bear metal, that perhaps was chromed once.

Ah, well that would be good. I will see if that's possible now.

I'm not completely sure how much contact there is. However I suspect the real issue is that my hubs don't have a proper lining, they were just chromed and that's long since worn out. Apparently even when they were new they were rubbish. So I will get them relined properly then get some higher friction shoes. Everything else is good / new / refurbished. Shame, as the wheels have just been laced up with new spokes and rims. I will have to have that done again, but basically without working brakes there is no point riding it. I will speak to Villiers and Saftek and see who can sort me out the fastest. Its so close to being fully renovated and now the sun is out I'm desperate to ride the bike now.

Ah, that's a good idea. I will give them a call. Thanks

I'm almost finished restoring my Sherpa T 250 circa 1966. New rims, new tyres, new spokes. Just had new brass bushings put in the brake plate. New shoes, new cable inner and outer. Brake arm works fine, shoes contact the inside of the drum fine. However, with the brake lever fully pulled I can still roll the bike forwards. Oddly it locks up the wheel if I pull the bike back, but forwards no chance. Stopping would be nice before I attempt to ride the bike. Has anyone some suggestions to what I can do next to make it work ?

Ah, that's a good idea. I will see what Villiers / Saftek can do for me. Thanks

Hi, my rear hub brake needs relining, the new pads do not engage with the hub enough to work. Can anyone recommend someone that can remove and replace the existing liner. Its a Bultaco Sherpa T, 1966 ish. Local to Oxfordshire / South of the UK would be a bonus, but Im happy to travel to get working rear brake. Thanks

Ah, that eBay sticker should do the trick, thanks. I've ordered two in case I mess up the first one. I reckon with a hairdryer I might be able to get it to curve in two directions. If not its cheap and I will resort to your idea, Pschrauber.

Does anyone know where I can get a stick-on B&W number plate for my (1967) Sherpa. I've found a few places that do rectangular ones, but non that do those old 60's style B&W ones that will stick to the rear mudguard. I dont really want to mount a flat plate, Id rather stick one on so it bends round the rear mudguard without sticking out.

Hi, I've now stripped the frame down and want to get it back to the original colour. Its been badly painted back, which is not right. So, once cleaned up, what colour should it be ? From photos I can see its silver, but is there a correct sliver it should be ? Thanks.

After much heating, greasing and soaking in release fluid, I seem to have one end free. The spindle, inner bush and swingarm are all now independent moving on the RH side. Only the LH side does the inner bush not move free from the spindle. So some progress, just need to see if I can free up the other side. I've left it soaking again after a morning of heat, grease and lube persuasion. Time for a cuppa and then try again.

Ah, OK. I will go and inspect it in the morning, now you have provided that explanation Woody, thanks. I did pump grease into it till I could force no more in with the grease gun. It seemed to go in easy, then firm up and now the swing arm still pivots up/down, but there is resistance that wasn't there before.. Im assuming the new grease has gone in displacing the old crap. I've laid it down on its side and poured as much Holts freeing up fluid down the shaft and left it for the night. I will inspect it tomorrow and ascertain if its rubber or original bushes.

Good advice, thanks guys. I will set about it as you suggest.

Yeah, you are right. I removed both nuts and twatted it with a hammer, either side. It did not budge and I didnt want to mess up the threaded ends. It moves up/down fine, no side to side play. But the swing arm pivot doesn't want to come out. I shall squirt some grease in the grease nipple and soak the pivot in some release fluid overnight and try again.

Spent Saturday morning stripping all down into a pile of bits. Actually only took a couple of hours, there is just so little to an old 2-stroke 1960's bike. Just one bolt needed hacksawing off, one of the bolts on the front mudguard had rusted into place. The engine bolts were close to finger tight, the large ring that screws the exhaust header into the fined head was easy as well. I was expecting that to be a headache, but nope, easy. Seemed to be too good to be true. Only bit left that seems stubborn is the rear swingarm pivot, but actually since there is no play in it, I may leave it in place.

OK, thanks for the info Woody. Looking at the 27 vs the 80 I also agree, the latter does look a bit better. Plus as you say, better ground clearance. So I will carry on restoring it, but not bother trying to make it a 27 and just get it all looking and working nice with the engine as a 27 and the frame as an 80 then. I may well see the original stamp once I clean the frame up before painting it again.

Would the exhaust for that engine fit properly into the later 80 frame ? Or is that why its been bodged ?

But as Woody says, it doesn't really matter. I can still get it all looking and running like new. I wonder how much a 27 frame would cost though after I take into account selling mine.

Ah. Oh well, perhaps they figured it would be good to have matching numbers then. When I first bought it in the early 80's I never looked, or know about numbers. Could have been done by the chap I sold, then bought it off, but not sure why he would do that. Its not like he tried to sell it for any money, I bought it back off him for about 400 quid I seem to remember. But it does seem to be a 27 engine though.

This is the frame number.

Ah, so someone stamped a false number on the frame then. Blimey, wonder why they did that. Id better start looking at model 80's or 49's then. I assume the engine is a model 27, though, or do you reckon that's been "adjusted" as well ?