Scottro

Regarding the "Rock & Roll-back to find BDC" method to start. Aside from it being inconvenient/impossible in many off-road situations, is it any worse for the kick mechanism than any other method? Since I'm applying far less force upon the lever and internals, wouldn't that result in less stress on the Bart gear and associated internals? This is a sincere question. Is there harm that can be done with this method? I've worked on a pit bike with high comp motor where the owner broke the kick lever and internals from kicking it with so much force at the wrong point BTDC.

The Bart gear.

Yes, but I'm not riding trials. And it's not like I'm rolling it back very far. More like rocking it back. But I'm sure with more experience with the bike, I'll get more adept at kicking it over and positioning the lever so that I can start it in sticky situations. For me, it currently seems to start better from bottom dead center. And I don't have to worry about breaking anything in the kick start mechanism.

Rolled the bike out and successfully started it cold with two reasonable kicks. Rode a few backyard laps stopping without putting a foot down, and just generally getting used to the bike. I shut it down 3-4:times to practice the roll- back and kick method. Took only 1 kick each time. Im getting so I can start it without putting much body weight into the kick. I'm thinking Butch should be able to do it even with the weight loss and leg issue.

Another easy left-field newbie mistake to make is brushing your right leg against the header. If you're tired and frustrated from attempting to kick start the bike, or trying to roll it back, it's easy enough to do. (Ask me how I know.) It sticks out just right. Lol 0lder gents like me in my polyester slacks need to be mindful.

I probably have the same lift. Takes a little effort to get in up on the thing, but it works really well.

Yeah, the bottom of the bike, skidplate, etc sit really flat and stable on my lift too. It's an easy bike to crank up high to work on.

Hey Butch. If you haven't looked hard at your bike much, almost every maintenance task requires Torx bits. I rarely used Torx bits in the past and bought a better, more complete set than my old Harbor Freight jobbies. Lol

It depends on your goal really. I want to putt around in the yard or woods at walking speed and not need to slip the clutch constantly. I've got other bikes I need to do that with. And sprocket/ chain changes are fairly cheap and easily reversible. My bike is a lot more backyard friendly with the gearing change. Maybe I'll dislike the gearing when I get into more open terrain. At that time, it'll only take 1/2 hr max to swap back. I don't think the new chain and sprockets set me back much more than $100. And I get to enjoy my $7k bike a lot more. I agree that you should try the bike first tho. I didn't need too many hours to know it was geared higher than I wanted for the back yard.

I'm not certain how many folks who compete in trials change gearing. Someone with experience can maybe chime in. There are enough to support aftermarket sprocket sales at a small level anyhow. I personally wouldn't attempt many sections I've seen at local vintage trials going much faster than a slow putt. I'm just not that good at it. Lol. But I'm not intending to compete in trials anytime soon. I really just wanted a very lightweight and nimble bike for tight woods and slow trail riding. The end of summer pricing kind of drove the decision too. 'll be installing a seat next. And if I like the end result enough, I might dual sport it so I can legally get between trails. I'm going a similar route (from the opposite direction ) with a KX112. Ive added tall seat, tall bars, lower pegs, heavy flywheel, quieter muffler with spark arrestor, and will be adding street parts and plating it. The KX is for faster trails. It's not backyard friendly at all. Lol It's a bit of an obsession. Lol I like light weight bikes with good power, and farting around modding them to suit specific "needs" is fun.

Yup. A 2023 Txt300. It actually doesn't feel a whole lot more wheelie prone than before. It feels more tractor-like and slow enough to maneuver around a tight backyard. Lol

I got out today and practiced the roll back starting method. 'works very well. With boots on, I can get it started in 2-3 kicks. Also, I got the chain installed and properly tensioned for the 48 tooth rear sprocket I installed. I'm running a tooth or 2 smaller up front and 9-10 larger in the back. Throttle response is still very strong, but speed is much more small backyard friendly. I'm accelerating from 0-10 mph in first gear instead of 0-20. Makes a difference in a smaller yard with stockade fence all around and a couple parked cars to avoid. Lol. I think I'd like a stiffer throttle return spring while I'm learning, but I'll survive this one. I can comfortably putt putt around the yard in first gear at a walking pace without being constantly on the clutch and brakes. I still have a lot more gears if I wanna go fast.

I don't think hard starting is generally an issue with modern 2 strokes. I got a 2022 kx112 as a pit bike on steroids, and it's a breeze to kick start. Granted, it's smaller displacement. But it's rated at 25-30hp, so compression has gotta be up there. It's easier to start by a factor of 10-20. I have new 2-stroke lawn equipment and chainsaws that fire right up too. Apples to oranges probably... I think the geometry of the bike, design of the kick start mechanism, and compression are a perfect storm on the txt300.

Don't be too embarrassed. They are difficult bikes to kick start. My DR650 is much easy by comparison. On your first few rides be mindful of how powerful and responsive the bike is too. A field with some room to run is safer than a backyard with obstacles within 20 yds. Especially if you might be a little rusty or not yet on your A Game health-wise. It's a snappy bike. It surprised me! Lol

Sorry. I was following the other thread on this bike and didn't see this one. My 2023 is difficult to start too. Spark is fine. It's just really physically hard to kick from TDC. The height of the kicker, angle, and force required combine to make it tough. I'm 220 lbs. As others have mentioned, finding bottom dead center makes it easier and I'm working on getting that technique down. Also, propping the bike with left bar end against a tree is helpful. I own a kickstart only Suzuki DR650 and a Kawi KLX300 that's kick only, and this bike is considerably more challenging than either. (But I know the techniques for those bikes). 2 stroke-wise, it's more difficult than my old RD400, KDX200, or KX112. I gotta work on the technique, wear boots, practice, and maybe try the low comp head.

Hey Butch. I don't have an hour meter, but sounds like a good idea. Right now. I'm limited to riding around in a fairly tight backyard. I just want to slow the bike down so I'm not eating the privacy fence or riding the clutch 90% of the time. Lol. My yard's a bit too tight for much other than a trials bike or pit bike. Later in the month, I'll get it up to some property in Clarion county, where there's a lot more space on 60 acres. I'm also just a very casual trail rider. Slow, nimble, and light bikes interest me.

That looks pretty sharp, Katoom! I hadn't considered bending that front bracket flat... That's a great idea, really. Thanks!

I got a 48 tooth rear sprocket for my bike. It installed fine and I got a new, longer chain that I'll need to fit. The issue I'm running into is the OEM chain tensioner is too close to the swingarm for the much larger sprocket. Really, it needs to extend downward 2-3 inches to be properly located. I hate to bypass it, and have the chain jump and destroy the engine case by wadding up at the countershaft. Are there other chain tensioners available, or is this bike Just. Too. New.?

Hey Butch. I'm in Pittsburgh. We're about 2 hrs apart. Not horrid, by PA standards. lol When I noticed one priced at $6199 at a local-ish dealer I was skeptical. I called, and their setup fees were reasonable, so I confirmed the price and grabbed it. I have been kicking myself for not jumping on a Honda/Montesa that I saw on sale a few yrs back, but hesitated and lost. The dealer is Waynesburg Yamaha. They are very easy to deal with. They still have a GP 300 for $7699, btw, if anyone's interested. I think it's the same engine with much upgraded suspension. (Which I lack the talent to appreciate, I figure.) I'll download the manual and print it out. Half a ream of paper and some laser toner is cheaper than factory prices.

I got a one tooth smaller front sprocket, but didn't notice much difference, so I opted for the larger rear and a new chain. I keep forgetting to download and print out the owners manual. I hadn't thought of shimming the spark plug to reduce compression. I've done that in the past in attempt to stop a bike from pinging, but didn't think it made much power difference. The low compression head and liner doesn't mention how much it lowers things. Supposedly, this bikes factory head accommodates aftermarket liners. But I got both new head and liner, because I didn't know. GasGas are rare bikes in Western Pennsylvania. I'm the only person I know who has one! Anybody know the torque specs for the head bolts? Has anyone found a service manual yet? Thanks to everyone for your responses. Glad I found this thread!

I figured I'd have to drill holes in the (truly) beautiful rear mudguard, so I bought a spare. Honestly, this bike's plastics are the nicest I've ever seen on any bike or quad. The notion of drilling holes in the fender is tough to wrap ones head around. Lol. I have seen photos of a Contact, but trials bikes (GasGas or otherwise) are rare around here. I would enjoy electric start, since this bike is a challenge in that regard.

I'm also the newbie owner of a new 2023 TXT 300 Racing. My previous trials bike experiences were on an old Ossa 250. I always wanted a newer trials bike, and the timing and price was right on this bike. Power-wise, this bike is a totally new world. I've surprised/startled myself several times in the back yard. lol I've got the slow throttle tube and have bought (but not installed yet) a larger rear sprocket (to slow things down) and a low compression head. I'd like to calm the bike down a bit until I get my brain/body recalibrated. I'd also like to buy or fab a basic seat, so I can sit while riding and get used to the bike's power before doing more serious stand-up trail riding. I'd like to wire in a kill button and maintain the magnetic switch. I have also worried about the little magnet going flying off into the tall grass or mud. I'm running 90 octane zero-ethanol gas. I'm curious what fuel/oil mixture ratio I should use during break-in.

Hello. Has GasGas or anybody else released a seat for this bike? Does the 2022 version fit? Otherwise, have any of your folks devised a nice DIY version? Has anyone adapted a Long Ride kit from Sherco or Beta?