gti5notrkt

Anyone have a source for non-OEM fork seals/dust caps for a 2000 2.5? Over here stateside they are $40ea (~20 UKP), so a full seal/cap set is 80UKP (ouch!). Surely there must be companies that have seals (SUDCO?) that can be used in place of the Sherco ones? If so does anyone know the correct dimensions for the seals and caps? Alternatively it may still be cost effective to buy stuff from the UK and ship here. My parents live in England so if there are dealers in the UK that do not ship Internationally this would still be OK. Who has the best prices for Sherco parts in the UK? Help! Thanks, Jon.

This past week I picked up a 2000 Sherco 2.5 for a reasonable price. The bike is basically sound but I there are maintenance items that I want to take care of before riding; Replace/oil air filter Replace fork dust seals (cracked) Replace fork seals (leak on left fork) New fork oil (10wt) Fork spacers (preload) Install stiffer red rear shock spring (I'm 230lbs, 6ft) Flush/bleed brakes & clutch New coolant New transmission fluid Any other stuff I missed? Now the stuff I need help on..... The rear muffler looks really tired. The endcap has been re-riveted on a bunch of times and it currently loose. Also I am not sure if it needs repacking. Should I try and repack or bite the bullet and buy a new one? Cost? If I fix should I weld the cap back on? (a friend has a TIG welder). The rear brake seems to have a lot of lateral play. Brake is firm but I am thinking the pivot bushing/axle is worn? Is this a common problem? Easy fix? I read the service manual on-line concerning the fork seal replacement and I feel confident doing it myself. Anyone do this and have any words of wisdom? Is it worth buying the special seal tool to do it or should I take it to a shop? Sorry for so many questions. I'm excited to get into the sport. Jon. Loveland OH, USA.

Rapp rapp rapp.....she runs! Took the carb off last night. The process is well documented on Sherco's website under jetting changes. At the same time cleaned and re-oiled the airfilter. Checked that the float sealed off the fuel (inverting carb and blowing through fuel line). Everything seemed fine, but also took out the jets and cleaned with carb spray and compressed air. While disassembling I noticed that the choke lever is really tight around the petcock. Took the liberty of shortening the lever a little to get better clearance. Put it all back together and she started right up. Even in 90+ weather she still needs some choke. Really not sure what the root cause was however I'm thinking that I was not getting the choke more than 1/2 way on due to the lever clearance issues. Now that I can be sure I can get 100% choke no problems. Maybe a bit of wild goose chase for a simple choke issue, but it was a valuable exercise in basic maintenance. Thanks to all that helped. Jon.

So, firstly thanks for all the help so far.... I got some fresh gas (petrol) 93 Oct, mixed 64:1 with Silkolene 2T premix. Checked the plug had a spark (yes) but the gap was 1mm. I changed this to Sherco's spec of 0.6mm. Incidentally the plug was dark brown on 3/4 of the insulator and tan brown on the other 1/4. Looks like the jetting is close, maybe a little rich top end (ok)? While the plug was out I kicked it over 3-5x WOT. Removed fuel line from petcock and checked that fuel flowed out. Put the bike in 2nd with choke on and WOT, rocked the bike over a few times. Neutral, throttle closed, no start. 1/2 throttle no start, WOT, no start ....mmm..... Pulled the plug again...DRY! OK, so it appears I have a fuel problem between the petcock and the combustion chamber. Any ideas? Should I drain the floatbowl? Remove the carb? Maybe I stuck the floats laying it down? Is the carb easy to take off? Thanks, Jon.

I just picked up a used 2000 2.5 for a reasonable price to get started in trialling. When I picked it up I could not store the bike veritically on the trip home as my trailer is not setup yet. As a result I had the fuel drained and the bike was laid down on the left side for approximately 8hrs. This morning I tried the start it for the first time and it would not fire. The person I bought from showed me the bike running and starting it, so I know there is unlikely be problems with ignition etc. I am wondering if I have in some way flooded the carb or some created some other fuel related issues by the bike being laid down? (the fuel was siphoned out the top and the carb floatbowl was not drained). What is the correct starting procedure? weather is 90deg/humid, do I need any choke? Throttle closed, partially open, WOT? Should I consider bump starting? what gear? Also the seller mentioned that when cold the clutch drags for a short while until the trans oil warms up. Is this normal? What should I do to ensure the bike does not take off on me the first time I start it? Thanks, Jon Andrews.