finn

Think your going to have to remove the head, just done a 2011 and it's v tight. The fan unit rubs against the face of the rad top and bottom thus it leaks, whack some metal sealant in their it should cure it.

Yep it's easy enough, your'll need circlip pliers plus see if you can find a length of tube to slide over the fork just to knock the new seal in place. Be gentle with the seal and fork surface, you don't want any scratches.

Splat shop stock most parts for the Keihin, plus only use the higher grade fuel - I've not had an issue with supermarket fuel.

Good bike all round, had mine a couple of years and I'm very impressed. Exhaust can rub on rear wheel, also the exhaust mounts can crack where they mount to the frame if the bike has been picked up by tail pipe. Dog bone links go regularly and will probably need replacing. I had an issue with a small grinding noise in the gearbox when under load, turned out to be a couple of needle bearings under the gear clusters, cheap to buy but I did have to split the box.. Regards

Lots of different ways to sort this problem, bar ends are good but you have to cut the grips. I found the best way was to use a throttle tube that has a solid end, then fit the throttle so that there is a slight amount of play between the tube and the end of the bar, that way when she falls off the solid end stops the throttle being pushed up the bar... hope that makes sense? http://www.trialendurodirect.com/products/ALUMINIUM_THROTTLE_BARREL_839.html

Anyone tried adding a small rear light to a repsol using the front light switch? I just want to have the one switch on the back of the front light cowl rather than adding another loom and switch to the bars. Also do these Monts have inbuilt regulators to keep it all at 12v's? regards.

Yep, but your'll have to turn the front wheel a tad.. I have a land rover with a 6ft bed and I can get 2 bikes in head to toe.

You might have duff tyre their, I had the same problem with an IRC, changed it for an XLight - no more problems. I do now use a bead seal made by putoline and its very good.

I had the same problem with my kids Oset, pull the bearing out, find the numbers and search ebay, think I brought 5 for a tenner. Easy enough to change as gwhy says, mine had loads dirt on them they are a little exposed. I've also changed them for a friends bike and we are sure they failed due to the chain being over tight.

I brought some neoprene gloves from RawSport via eBay and they are great, not too thick but stay warm when wet..

The red stuff is ATF, a cheap alternative to light gear oil, it's good for clutches but not so good for bearings, if the putoline is recommended for your bike use it, it will be better for your gearbox. I use ipone 2stroke gear oil which is yellowish in colour, never had a problem. Hope that helps.

Hi Ben, The kick start shaft does wobble about quite a bit with the clutch casing off as the outer casing does most of the support. They are not the easiest of things to put back together, the spring does need to be wound into place. Line up the water pump pin before pushing home that casing or it will do damage. Nick.

Food for thought.. I picked up a sherco 125cc years ago that had the same problem, ran fine on tick-over but wouldn't rev out on demand. Took me a couple of days to find that the previous owner had stripped the carb at some point a managed to snap the atomiser emultion tube and loose the main jet, yep it ran fine on tick-over without a main jet! What jogged my memory was the air screw was wound right out... Does the bike bog when you open the throttle fast from tick-over? Have a look on the sherco website for part diagrams - very helpful.. Good luck Nick. PS, as for the fan, Tony has the measure of that one..

Thanks very much.

Any idea's if you can date a 4RT from it's frame numbers? If so, I presume a bike sold in tale 2009 would have an 2010 vin/chassis number? Any help much appriciated.