kimpybugalugs

If it is you, then get it running and we'll hit the river bed.

If you are who I think you are, surely there'll be a spare one amongst all the bits? - and get the front brake working first. Apologies if it's not you.

Thanks for the answer. Has anyone put them on with the TK carb - if so what jets?

Hi all I have a 1984 TY250 Mono. As far as I can tell it is bog standard. It runs OK. My questions are: Would fitting Boyesen reeds make much difference? Would they require jetting changes? I put some on a TY175 a few years ago and with jetting mods recommended by John Cane it made quite a difference. I'm not so familiar with the Mono so any advice appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I am riding trials and I do flex my legs.

It's a 1984 TY 250 mono. It's got the shock with the remote reservoir. I've taken the preload to the max and wound the spring to it's tightest setting with the two locking rings. The back end bottoms out far too easily - I'm about 100kg with all my gear on. Is there anything else I can do? Does anyone do a heavy duty spring? Should I put a packer in front of the lock rings so they compress existing spring more? My guess is I'll lose some travel but it might be worth it? Should I lay off the beer and pies to lose a few kg's (I think this has to be a very last resort)? Any advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks for confirming

Am making great progress Peter - have sent you a pm with details which should give you a laugh.

I found an online manual for the TY350 mono that says cylinder head nuts torque to 22nm. Is the setting the same for the TY250 mono? Does anyone know where I can download a 250 Mono manual? Thanks

Hi Bilks. Thanks for the answer. My welding is not that great so I'll probably get a local welder involved. Any chance of some pics of your mod? Thanks.

Does anyone do lowering brackets for the TY mono foot pegs? I know Sammy Miller does them for the twinshock. I'm keen to avoid cutting and welding if I can. If I can't avoid cut and weld does anyone have any drawings to help fabrication?

And them at home think we are out having fun?

It does look good. I've emailed them to try and get some more info - especially the clamp size They do different lengths so it'd be a case of which is best?

My TY175 has the side stand coming off the left hand foot rest plate. I am thinking about getting lowered footrests and using one of these (see link) instead of bodging my existing stand onto new footrest mounting plates. http://ultimatebikebitz.co.uk/details.asp?PartNo=891921 Has anyone used these or something similar? Any feedback appreciated.

I have put the TY250 forks and yokes onto my 175 and they feel vastly superior with my 110kg onboard. If you search through this forum you will find this discussion quite a few times. This swap worked out to be for free for me, if it was going to cost me a decent sum then I might not have done it. See here: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/34698-ty250-bits-to-a-ty175/page__p__261375__hl__%2Bty250+%2Bty175+%2Bswap__fromsearch__1#entry261375 I sold the 250 with all the knackered bits from the 175 on it for the same money I'd paid for it in the first place.

This might be helpful: http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/prod_49624--36-amp-89-Swinging-Arm-Repair-Kit-TY125-amp-TY175.html

Hi Andy Thanks for your input. All is working perfectly. As you're on here - what spockets are you running? I've done similar mods to yours (boyesens, uni filter, Sammy Miller tail pipe, pilot jet increase) and am currently running 13/52. I've got the option for new sprockets of 11,12 or 13 for front and 51 for rear and am not sure what way to go?

I quizzed them about your comments. As I have had nothing but excellent service from them and have recommended them to many of the guys I ride with in NZ. They tell me that there was a problem with your one and that the problem was rectified two years ago with a new jig. They also said they offered you a replacement and refund of freight costs but you wanted a refund because you had a mate that would make one for the price of a burger and fries: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/35821-ty175-shifter-shaft/ I have seen a locally done one here (in NZ) but it looked rough and did not come with the extra bits in the T & T kit.

Possibly?

So, the suggestion from John Cane was have you tried it with the engine running? I hadn't but what possible difference could that make? A lot of difference as it happens.... .... I fired the bike up and the gear change worked perfectly straight away. Now I feel rather stupid but am happy to recommend this mod to anyone with the sloppy gear lever. Thanks John. I'll be calling you soon for gearing advice and to place another order.

I've had a response from John at Trail & Trial - he's sugested a few things to try - so hopefully that'll fix it

Hi All I've just got round to fitting the Trail & Trials UK gear change mod for the TY175 after having it sitting around for 6 months. I took all the old bits out, put the new bits in and followed the instructions. The gear lever no longer slops around like it used to. BUT - now I am having trouble selecting a gear. The leaver goes down to a stop or up to a stop but doesn't take bike out of neutral. Before I go back and start all over again does anyone have any tips/advice/etc? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for your comments. Plenty for me to think about.

Has anyone fitted "Magicals" progressive fork springs to their TY250? If so what difference did they make? I'm 105kg would they be of any benefit? Same questions apply to the "Magicals" adjustable fork caps? The modded damper tubes are way beyond my budget but if anyone has any comment on them I'd be interested. Or should I just throw heavier fork oil in? Thanks in advance for your input.