bultacosteve

The 350's are actually 326cc's. The power output is the same as the 250 but they have alot more grunt off the bottom. I found that with the 250 I used 2nd gear in many sections whereas now with the bigger engine I use 1st. I'm 210 lbs and when I had a 250 it pulled me around no prob. I prefer the larger engine now though. Only problem I tend to have sometimes is the grunt will actually be too much and I get off line which in turn makes me dab more than I should. Just need to practice more. Steve

On the sherpa T's they never went to primary kick. Very few production models had it. The only ones that come to my mind are the M162 and M194 125cc Pursangs (1976-77). The Banditos and el montaderos had it as well. Stev

I have to agree 5 to 600 bucks canadian is a good price. 1250 is excessive. The model looks like an M80 250cc built between 1971 to 73. It does have the very rare triangular muffler which are very hard to come by. Most people took them off and threw them away. Its one thing for someone to say it runs perfect and whether or not it does is another. Bultacos need proper spark, fuel delivery and compression. I would argue that the carb on that bike is worn thus causing poor running characteristics and needs replacing. If you are looking for a sherpa I highly recommend getting one that is built after 1973. The models to look for would be M150, M151, M158, M159, M182, M183, M190, M191, M198, M199, and M199A. The reason I say this is because starting in 1974 Bultaco started using chromoly steel for their frames which made them much lighter. Also the brake size changed to a smaller and lighter version that actually worked quite well compared to the model in the picture you posted. I live on the mainland and I have 3 sherpa T's. Either way you slice it you will fork out the money for the bike and then likely fork out money again to get it running properly. So if you spend 4 to 500 for a bike, expect to at least put another few hundred in to to get it to reliable running status. The consumables like points, condensor, cables, levers, fenders, tires, tubes, brakes are all easily available these days. Our dollar is very high right now so its a good time to buy up stuff from the states while it is at par. Steve

I have a 1975 M151 Sherpa T 350. It needs complete resto but pretty much everything is there. It is the last slimline model that Bultaco made. Chromoly frame. Newer style exhaust system. It would be considered ahrma legal and could be a great bike. Located on the mainland in Maple Ridge Steve

I use a B7ES in mine. Most NGK catalogs say BP5ES but i think that plug is a little too hot. I used the same B7ES in my M159 for 4 years and never fouled it, never had any problems with it. I probably had 150 hours of riding on that plug. I only changed it as a preventative measure not because it wasn't performing properly. Steve

Hi Mike After getting the stuff home the next day and unloading it I found that the matador is actually very complete. I have the all the parts required to finish it accept the head pipe and triangular rear pipe. These are both easy to come by. Interestingly the wiring harness on the matador is completely original and intact. Nobody ever hacked it up or changed it. This is a huge bonus for me because I can copy it for my other matador. I have the wiring diagram but it can be hard to follow, now that I have the original it makes it much easier. The engine is in good shape. I'll put a new piston, bearings, gaskets and it will be fine. I checked and the original electronic ignition is also still working which is another huge bonus. All in all I am very happy with the purchase. I think I will use it to commute to work next year. Also I put the bike in my name so the paperwork was a bonus also. So there you have it. Was great to meet you and I hope you finish that M159 soon. Give me a shout anytime if you need anything. I mentioned getting you the service manual but it slipped my mind a few weeks ago so I will send you a copy. Talk soon Steve

I may have those parts. I have a set of studs although I'm not positive that they are the correct length. I also have the lock washer for the sprocket. The seal will be available at any place that specializes in bearings. I know over here on the mainland I use Raeside but BC bearing or command bearing will likely have the seal and you will be surprised how inexpensive they are. Acme Bultaco will have the piston rings. On the top of the piston if it is oversize it will say ,25 or ,50 or whatever size it is. If there is no such mark then it is a standard size piston. Many times the piston will have other markings like T2+ or T2- these are designations that are used for final fitment of the piston in a freshly bored cylinder. Ignore this it has nothing to do with wether or not the piston is oversize and isn't critical now that the piston has been used before and is now being put back into service. My 159 uses the pin type clutch too and I actually made a tool for it to make them easy to install. You can do without it with some fiddling and a helper. Looks Good Steve

Only takes three things for the bike to run. Spark, fuel and compression. I agree the timing should be checked. You have cleaned the carb, thats good. Did you make sure the pilot jet was clean? was the pilot passage in the carb clear?. Will fuel overflow the float bowl when the tickler is pressed. When installing the carb I always make sure to use a slight bit of Loctite 515 on the mating surface to make sure that no air leaks will occur. Also Bultaco's are well known for needing crank seals. They are easy to replace and are also easily available. Make sure the cylinder base gasket isn't leaking. I've seen this many times on Bultacos. It can only be 3 things or a combination of three things Steve

Hi sunny, what sherpa t is that in the pic it looks like a M159 . Also what model matador is it ?. I have a M75 and M82 matador as well as 3 sherpa's M151, 159, 199B. I may have a few extra parts over on the mainland here for the matador. Let me know Steve

The piston skirt length has no bearing on why the piston is protruding from the cylinder. The location of the wrist pin bore is what is causing the problem. Simply put its the wrong piston. Many of the Mahle pistons can be retrofitted to most bultaco's. Sounds to me like you have a piston that was for another 350 360 model witha different stroke. It is very common to have to file the intake skirt to obtain the correct skirt length. The other thing with using too many base gaskets is that it will change port timing. You would be far better to obtain the correct piston for the bike. You are permanently changing the cylinder head by removing material from it where as a piston change won't result in anything permanent. Part 2 is the subject of cast versus forged pistons. They make a huge difference. Wiseco pistons are forged and expand rapidly compared to the cast Mahle pistons. When running a wiseco the cold piston to wall clearance needs to be over 3 thousands of an inch to prevent cold seizures. I work in a modern motorcycle service department and every 2 stroke wiseco piston that I have ever removed from an engine has seized. It is usually due to the owners not properly warming up their bikes or running the wrong oil mix. They are very finicky and and need to be set up and used very carefully , but if they are all that is available then that is what people will be using. Stick with the Mahle pistons whenever possible. Steve

Yeah it was doing exactly what I mentioned. Brake backing plate rubbing on hub. There is supposed to be a small flange type spacer between the hub and plate. It will fit into the seal that is in the wheel. If you don't already have one get a parts manual for the bike. Lynn Mobley from bultaco parts will have one in stock. Try them at bultacoparts.com they are very friendly and ship promptly. the exploded diagrams will show where the differences are and at what serial number any changes were made at. I'm actually surprised that such a big spacer is used on the left side of the axle. If you are coming through town give colin @ acme a call a few days before as he doesn't have a store front shop and he is by appointment only. Steve

I agree I think the spacer between the brake flange and the hub may be missing and the brake is flange is rubbing against the hub. It is a small spacer but does need to be there in order for it to work properly. Did you get in touch with Acme Bultaco? Steve

Colin Hancock is the owner of Acme Bultaco. He will have almost any engine part you need and will be able to source brake pads and the like. Try his email it is as follows acmebul@shaw.ca Please email me for his phone number and I would be happy to forward it to you. Thanks steve my email bultacorider@msn.com

Actually Bultaco parts are really easy to get. Virtually everything is available for the M80. the only thing that is really hard to get is the rear triangle muffler for the bike. Keep an eye on ebay, they come up from time to time but are well over the 130 dollar mark. Any manuals or books can be purchased from Lynn and Dorothy Mobley in Nevada or Hughs Bultaco in new york. There were 2932 M80 Sherpa T's made. I have seen about half a dozen here on the west coast over the last 12 years. email me if you need any technical info or help with parts sourcing bultacorider@msn.com Steve

Where abouts do you live? I am from the lower mainland of BC and I am avidly into Bultaco's. In fact I had an M80 Sherpa for about 5 years that I rode in local competitions. One of the largest Bultaco parts suppliers in western North america is in Coquitlam ( Acme Bultaco). What he doesn't have he can get for you. If you would like any technical advice or assistance you can contact me steve.angela@shaw.ca Steve

My bike is set up stock right now. AndI'm not going to hack it apart or change anything drastic until I have a season of competition on it. And I will try the longer shocks first. In our club there is a fellow that has a modified M99 frame. He has removed the lower frame rails and steepened up the steering geometry. As well he uses a pursang front end with non leading axle front forks. His is a very well sorted out Sherpa and he rides intermediate type sections with good success. Having said all this I was just looking for any info that you guys could help me with. At this point with how scarce 340 parts are; changing anything drastically from stock probably isn't such a good idea. Also I am on the 4th over piston with this bike. Are 340 cylinders available in the UK?. Because there sure isn't any here in north america. Steve

Ok since the Alpina triple clamps are a no go how about trying a set of pursang non leading axle forks. This would leave the steering stock but bring the front wheel back slightly. Has anyone tried doing that on their Sherpa's Steve

Yes the 116 alpina has the pursang type triple tree. Stability could be an issue with the wheelbase pulled in but how much so is anyone's guess until I've tried doing it. With the wheelbase pulled in the fender could interfere with the frame down tube and obviously could be quite dangerous. I find in rocky creek beds that the M159 is very solid, but the comment about the bikes being knocked off line easily is well founded. I assume my M199B will be the same because the wheelbase is identical. I find that if I have approached the section right and have the right line that the bike behaves superbly but if off line you're in for a heap of trouble because trying to right the bike only ends up in over correcting which puts you off line even more. Also the 326 engine has so much snort that I find at times it can put me off line as well. I am going to try the swingarm mod later this year. I notice that the frame has to be altered to incorporate the pivot being moved forward. As well the rear engine mount would have to be reconfigured. In the latest issue of classic dirt bike there is an article on a gentleman from the uk that did a superb build on a 198A bike that incorporates the swingarm mod. How far up does the engine have to be moved if at all? does anyone know?. I'm going to get a season of riding the M199b before I try anything too radical. Longer shocks seems the sensible way to go. Getting the front forks to behave the way I want is at the top of my list. I might try some racetec emulators for the front forks. These are basically a damper that goes underneath the fork spring and can be tuned to adjust rebound damping. Stock fork springs are a weak point on the Bultacos as well. Has anyone machined weight off their primary flywheel and if so how much?. And afterwards did it need to balanced?. Also I am using new betors on the rear of the bike. Any suggestions on a better shock as I'm quite sure they betors are the same quality they were 30 years ago. Steve

This is my first post on this forum but I have been viewing the topics on the board for about a year. I own several Bultaco's and I am very knowledgeable about the brand and many of the models they produced. I have been riding an M159 Sherpa for the past 5 years in vintage events. This past year I have been using it in the vintage class but we ride junior type sections. Myself and the other vintage riders find the junior sections more than manageable on the older bikes. Last year I got an M199B sherpa t and I am just now finishing off the restoration. I use that term rather loosely as all I have done is blast and paint the frame, new tires, new cables, brakes, and all engine internals have been replaced. I have fitted a Mikuni flatslide and have it dialed in very nicely In any case one of the problems I have with the Sherpa models is how long the wheelbase is. I have read several articles on swingarm placement and I am aware of how critical it is but nobody has ever really commented on the tiller like effect that the front end of these bikes have. Basically from the M158 series right to the end of production the bikes were designed at a time when long rocky climbs were the norm. Thus making a long stable wheelbase very desirable. And here in western Canada we do have lots of rocky sections where the sherpa will really show its true colors and perform the way it was intended. However riding the bike in the modern junior class I find that it doesn't have the turning ability that I would like. I am thinking that I would like to take the front end off of a M116 Alpina. This would effectively reduce the wheel base by about 25-30mm. Has anybody out there tried doing this?. Also has anyone tried to actually change the steering geometry on their Sherpa by either making their own frame or removing the steering stem on the frame and welding it a degree or two steeper. I wouldn't say that the Sherpa isn't a quick turner ..... it is, its just that I would like something a with a little bit better turning manners. Any thoughts from some of you knowledgeable folks would be appreciated Steve