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Chimera, PM sent to you. -Mike

Being 6ft 1" tall I find the TY250A a fun ride but would like to lower the pegs. I do have a peg lowering kit, used, but for the life of me can't see how to install it. Does anyone have any photos or suggestions?

Here is a good source for Yamaha parts. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1985/TY350N%20-%20TRIALS/ELECTRICAL1/parts.html I notice you mention a TY250, but the only trials model shown is a TY350. The cdi is obsolete but it give you a starting point for part numbers in your search. Look for other Yamaha models of that era and you may find what you need. Good luck

The tank vent is clear. The tank is shiny clean in the inside and was thoroughly inspected and tested when I did the refurb. Petcock in tank screens were cleaned thoroughly. A new fuel line has been installed but I must sheepishly admit I neglected to add an inline filter. That will be addressed. I think the float bowl will be removed, cleaned, and all the jets blown out with compressed air. I've rebuilt the Bings on my R90/6 several times so I'm familiar with the general care and feeding of carbs, but overlooked that one component. Must have been having a senior moment. Thanks for all the good information!

My TY250A is hard starting, and it's because it is starved for fuel. The fuel just isn't flowing from the tank to the carb like it should. New fuel line, new Mikuni carb,tank was drained and cleaned, petcock filters cleaned. Apparently something is causing the fuel to not flow into the carb bowl like it should. Any suggestions?

Bill, I feel your pain. Just went through that issue myself. The boys at B&J supplied a first class cable for me and it does have an additional adjustment on the cable. However, if you pull the flywheel/magneto cover off, just above the shift lever you will see the clutch adjustment screw. Loosen the lock nut and using a phillips screwdriver adjust the screw until the clutch lever under the motor is parallel to the crank. (It's kind of an eyeball thing at best.) I'm sure there are more qualified folks than me that can weigh in on this, but I just went thru that this weekend and was able to get the clutch adjusted to my satisfaction.

Very clever, Rich! I'm not using the chain lube and that would solve the problem. Mighty pretty I might add. Do you have any pix of the full bike? I didn't go to near that effort and expense and this will be mostlly a means to re-aquainting myself with trials again. I suspect it will probably land sideways quite a few times as I ramp up the learning curve.

Got it, that's the way I had it. By the way, I mispoke earlier. The new front sprocket is a 12 tooth as Tony suggested. Thanks again.

Feetupfun, you mention that modern shocks run upside down? I have installed the Betors with the damping resevoir on bottom and springs on top. Should this be reversed?

Today the new chain was installed on the '74 TY250 resto. I went with a 428, same as before, and also changed out sprockets to a 53 rear and 13 front. My concerns are two fold. Having installed new Betor shocks I only have a 2, maybe 3 milimeters clearance between the shock spring and the chain. How much clearance is acceptable? Secondly, I adjusted the chain to the fifth detent on each adjuster cam, still have lots of adjustment left, however I'm concerned about the chain rubbing across the top of the swing arm. When under power, will the chain tension correct so it doesn't rub on the swingarm? The chain tensioner runs below the swing arm but there is no kind of rubbing block on the top. Any ideas or suggestions?

Rock Hopper, there are several online sources that have the Yamaha microfiche for your bike. Babbits for one, and boats.net for another, but there are several. I just changed the bearings on my TY250A and the bearings were 6302 and 6301. Bought mine from Lytle Racing off of ebay for a very reasonable price.

Tony, that's an OUTSTANDING discourse on the wheel bearing removal. Just what I was looking for. I came across this tool review in my search. http://www.4strokes.com/reviews/pitposse/wbremover/ This set by Pit Posse looks like the one you are using. Also, I save your blog to my favorites because I think I'll find some more goodies. Thanks!

Working on the refurb of my '74 TY250A and it's time to address the wheel bearings. The owners manual makes reference to an "L" shaped tool inserted into the spacer sleeve and then whack it out with a hammer. Sounds like a crude method to me, but what the heck. I tried using an Allen wrench and some PB Blaster but no joy. Any suggestions on how to remove the wheel bearings? What kind of tool works?

What year model TY250 do you have? I just took a quick look at the Owners Service Manual for my 1974 TY250A. All it says in an otherwise fairly complete manual is "Disassembly procedure for individual fork tube assemblies is found in DT250A / 360A Service Manual." The Haynes and Chilton manuals for the DT's are fairly easy to come by, unlike for the TY 250's. Hope this is of some assistance.

Nothing wrong with cheap, although I prefer to think of myself as frugal. I have a serious habit here with 6 different bikes to support! But am I missing something here? I went to boats.net and all that I see are marine motor parts. Do they have a different page for motorcycles?