January 16, 201016 yr hi all. Thanks charie. i did the mod on swing arm length by 1 inch . cut the full spingle adjuster off and had new ones profile cut plus 1 inch to the front this way no need to fill and it thought 1 weld rather than 2 would be stronger { could be wrong} but without the chain tensioner lugs. i drilled and then welded pins for snail cams. do you prefer powder coating or good old paint and laqure? kev
January 16, 201016 yr Author Hi Guy's Hi Kev, Yes as long as the weld is good there should be no problem, you could always go over the top and stress relieve it, by reheating, then polish the plates up and temper them to the correct colour, cool in oil. I should use it for a while,and make sure it is OK before powder coating, but that is the way to go. PS I should leave the welds as they are and not grind them down. Regards Charlie.
January 16, 201016 yr hi all, Thanks again charlie as you may have worked out i am a bit of a novice at this game ,but all the help on here is wonderfull so you may have other questions along the way !! hope you dont mind ..kev
January 16, 201016 yr Author Hi Guy's. Hi Kev. Here to help if I can, Many have helped me with information, here on TC, And I thank them all for it. Regards Charlie.
February 10, 201016 yr Author Hi Guy's Hi Ross. Should have some shots of the Barrel pattern in a couple of weeks. Have changed tack, as they say, and am now making the pattern from sections of MDF and then could be copying these out of resin before bonding the sections together. I was planning on using a CNC desk top router to make these sections but may now use my mates desk top mill. I think I have decided to machine up a separate push rod tube, as the built in one may be frowned upon by some clubs. More progress on other parts of the bike, now got the BSA fork yokes I needed,and a Victor type tank is in the pipeline. Regards Charlie.
February 10, 201016 yr Charlie I also make most of my patterns and some vac forming molds from MDF. Almost as good as modelboard which is the stuff a lot of patternmakers use these days. If you are 3d profiling it with cnc and have the time it helps to do the finish cut, paint the thing in epoxy (let cure, OBVIOUSLY!) and recut. MDF seems to go all fluffy due to the lower density in the core and this technique seems to help get a good harder and higher definition surface. Modelboard is much nicer to use though. Wayne.... Edited February 10, 201016 yr by wayne_weedon
February 11, 201016 yr Author Hi Guy's Hi Wayne. Thanks for that little gem of information, that is indeed a help I have had the same problem with some of the MDF plugs I have made for taking glass fibre moulds from I then used good old shellac, but epoxy would be better. If I cant use the CNC mill I am going to mill the parts manually with the Bridgeport. Regards Charlie.
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