Hi jsp,

I have ridden 2 trials and a practice on the new bike so it is getting bedded in, which alters carburation a bit.

Just to answer your questions:

1) Yes, turn in the air screw all the way in first, then back off 1 full turn for an initial setting.

2) Yes, use a clear plastic in line fuel filter.

3) Use the same fuel/oil mix.

4) Only use a mineral oil, 10 weight or an ATF rated to Dexron III (auto transmission fluid) change when warm.

5) My 300 came with 42/11, usually 42/10 is great but on this year model, the gearing is still way too high for me, I will be fitting a 9T. The 06 300 was fine with 42/10.

I'd definately use a Hebo weight on the 300, don't like a slow action throttle - rider preference.

Riding up my favourite rocky creek, the bike feels a little stretched out compared to the 06 model, measuring footrest to f/wheel axle and comparing to an 06 bike is pretty well much the same, perhaps 5mm farther back.

As per the 06 bike, the std carb set up is too lean on the needle and at the top end, I bored out the main jet to approx 126 from 122 and felt that this was ok through the rev range. I now have a very small range of Keihin jets that I will try out, starting with a 130 main. (std is 122 main, 45 pilot needle on 2nd clip from bottom type JJH)

Will advise more as I get more time.

Bye, PeterB.

5) My 300 came with 42/11, usually 42/10 is great but on this year model, the gearing is still way too high for me, I will be fitting a 9T. The 06 300 was fine with 42/10.

The 09' 250 Raga I rode this weekend had a 10T countershaft sprocket and for some reason, it did seem still a little high to me also (I thought it was my old, feeble brain). On my 280 Pro I run a 44T 125/200 rear sprocket as the 9T C/S reduction method seems to generate a lot of internal chain friction heat and the tooth engagement/disengagement process is a little too severe which also exacerbates the pressure/heat.

Jon