uncle_dave Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 (edited) Apologies for bringing up this well trodden subject again. I have been reading a number of old threads, and the only sure fired cure seems to be an after market clutch kit. I have changed the gear box oil to ELF, no difference. Setting off in 2nd seems to help, but when you are learning to ride trials it is a distraction I could do without. (If you can call constant stalling a distraction!) Has anybody got any experience of fitting a clutch kit? If so was it successful, and which one did you fit? Thanks Uncle Dave Edited April 21, 2009 by Uncle_Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graeme17 Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Did you check the clutch basket for sign of wear on the edges where the clutch and friction plates mate with it, worth checking the plates in this area too. Are the clutch plates warped, sometimes when the clutch has been slipping alot they warp out of shape and the clutch won't release properly as a consequence. You may already have checked this but if not might be worth having a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svleigh Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 just too add, I had the same problem and it was due to the cluch lever being not adjusted correctly, it was not letting the master cylinder piston fully return to let fluid from the reservoir get into the line. It may be worth checking before stripping everything down. regards Leigh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wixee Posted May 4, 2009 Report Share Posted May 4, 2009 Bleed the clutch line before you buy plates. Mine starts to drag once in a while but if i change the dot fluid and bleed it well its back to normal. Back bleed it with a syringe, i tape a bowl under the master cylinder on the handle bars to catch the stuff i push out. This is by far the best way i've found of bleeding it. I have replaced the plates before and put the standard ones in and they work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle_dave Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 Thanks for the advice chaps, tried the following; Changing the oil for the recommended ELF stuff Adjusted the lever Replaced the piston in the master cylinder Replaced the fluid and bled it good... Still dragging... I think I need to look at the clutch plates, and maybe go for some of the aftermarket ones recommended elsewhere. Anybody got experience of those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tt5th Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 Hi, I used the Haven Trialsport friction plates first but what really made a difference was changing to the Apico steel clutch plates from BVM. They are dimpled which holds oil better or something. I still get a little drag starting from cold but after that its fine - ie. I start myself rolling, tap it in to first, catch it on the back brake with a bit of revving and slipping and its good to go for the rest of the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highscore Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Yup, Apico plates + ELF oil did wonders for mine. After 30 secs. she will not drag at all, start in gear etc, etc Be warned though, when your bike is perfect you have only yourself to blame!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.