Hi

I'm leaking oil from the seal behind the front drive sprocket, can this be changed without removing the flywheel and case side ?

Thanks

Well I've decided to throw some money at the old gal as she appears to be a fairly original 1981 240, frame pics attatched chip in if you know better, I had some pics of it before i striped it down but i cant find them.

Engine is now out and heading off this week for a rebuild,

the exhaust is stock front to back with the only dents in the rear silencer

the frame is striped and partly painted but have discovered 2 small cracks in the support plates behind the headstock, quite common I believe,

I have a 200 top yoke waiting for me all be it on the other side of the country for now,

It has the old densi ignition system and a 26mm delorto which needs proper inspection

the wheels are in good shape so just need polished and some new rubber,

I have some decent hight bars to replace the blue ones

the the swinging arm came apart without any trouble and looks to be in good shape,

Its had new cables, brake shoes and levers before i got it it seems,

the only things missing are the kickstart and gear lever rubbers and one side pannel.

Any suggestions or input would be most welcome.

H..

Edited March 7, 201016 yr by scoobie232

Looks very clean in the pics.

Std carby is 25mm NOT 26mm

Cracks are very common at the headstock

MUST DO:

Cut the footrest stubs off. Buy some new u brackets and say ghost or s3 footrests. Weld a 20mm wide strip of 3mm steel all along the botton of the footrest hangers. Do the say at the rear to form a plate at the back and bottom. Take the same metal profile and weld a U from the top of the hanger, bent round and underneach to form an open box running to the bottom. Then cut the bottom plate you have added to form a triangle.

It may look like, or better than this

or this

Dont use those pegs available from evil bay cos they are utter rubbish...didnt come from Bobs though (privat joke)

That should be enough for most people although I have a frame modded by classic trial in southampton. In addition to the footrests, the headstock was cut and welded incleasing the angles. The move of weight forward really did help the steering ALOT. And the cracked sideplates were welded at the same time.

Give Chris a call, he can shotblast and stove also for maybe less than you think...

If not try fitting 36cm shocks instead of the std 35,5cm.

An OKO is a big improvment over stock if you get a good one. The jeting is tricky but chris can help. I have 3 OKos. One is excellent, one is ok and the 3rd is naff. maybe quality variences or just setup?

I dont knowe but I now have a keihin 28mm of a Raga and that is brill. Or try a Mikuni for softer power but there i have experience

HTH

lee

Edited March 9, 201016 yr by Lee Harris

Those shocks in the box look like njb cluman shocks...put them on ebay and try and get some money back. Falcons are excellent but may take time to deliver, njb experts are a good compromise and better than the clubmans. Ohlins are on my mind at the moment just need a new morgage...

Your clutch arm has been lenghened so will be lighter but may be vague in pick up.

If you find the bike too reyy, add a second head gasket.

look here

http://pagesperso-orange.fr/fantic240pro/

Edited March 9, 201016 yr by Lee Harris

Thanks for the Input Lee It's much appreciated,

you must have read my mind as my next question was on a more detailed description on how to alter and attatch some modern pegs So thanks for ticking that box,

I had picked these up last month at a classic bike thingy in lanark with that purpose in mind and had been reserching the how to

I did consider sending the frame off to classictrial but as usual budget dictates in these matters, I have a guy I use about 12 miles up the road he's top notch so i dont imagine with your photos and instructions it should take too long I'll have him weld up the cracks while It's in, If thats all they require ?, should they be braced in some way ?,

Shock wise, I was considering a pair of rock shocks there's allways a guy up at the Scottish pre 65 selling them but I dont know of anyone who has them on for review purposes,

So anyone who has any experience with them Please chip in

Ohlins, if money was not a factor absolutely but not this project, I thought about them last year for my CZ but couldent justify the

Thanks for the Input Lee It's much appreciated,

you must have read my mind as my next question was on a more detailed description on how to alter and attatch some modern pegs So thanks for ticking that box,

I had picked these up last month at a classic bike thingy in lanark with that purpose in mind and had been reserching the how to

I did consider sending the frame off to classictrial but as usual budget dictates in these matters, I have a guy I use about 12 miles up the road he's top notch so i dont imagine with your photos and instructions it should take too long I'll have him weld up the cracks while It's in, If thats all they require ?, should they be braced in some way ?,

Shock wise, I was considering a pair of rock shocks there's allways a guy up at the Scottish pre 65 selling them but I dont know of anyone who has them on for review purposes,

So anyone who has any experience with them Please chip in

Ohlins, if money was not a factor absolutely but not this project, I thought about them last year for my CZ but couldent justify the

I recognise that shed in the pics.

About time that was getting done.

Level the playing field a bit,you keep thrashing me out of sight on the 4rt.

Thanks for the Input Lee It's much appreciated,

you must have read my mind as my next question was on a more detailed description on how to alter and attatch some modern pegs So thanks for ticking that box,

I had picked these up last month at a classic bike thingy in lanark with that purpose in mind and had been reserching the how to

I did consider sending the frame off to classictrial but as usual budget dictates in these matters, I have a guy I use about 12 miles up the road he's top notch so i dont imagine with your photos and instructions it should take too long I'll have him weld up the cracks while It's in, If thats all they require ?, should they be braced in some way ?,

Shock wise, I was considering a pair of rock shocks there's allways a guy up at the Scottish pre 65 selling them but I dont know of anyone who has them on for review purposes,

So anyone who has any experience with them Please chip in

Ohlins, if money was not a factor absolutely but not this project, I thought about them last year for my CZ but couldent justify the

Lee,

Depends on your definition of reasonable I paid about

40 quid is great...none on his website though.....

anybody know where else they are available???

cheers

lee

Well the engine finaly went into the shop a few weeks later than anticipated but at least the project is on the move, the engine has been stripped down and everything is as expected except the barrel which has a deep gouge running the the length of it, clearly ignored by a previous owner just a new ring fitted and left, but a new piston has been sourced and is due to be sent down to langcourt with the barrel for repair and revival.

I've had to sacrifice my Nikon gear to Finance this project but a decision had to be made as to whether to just make it work and fix bits as they pack up or break or do the job properly and make myself a keeper so decision made.

After a couple of lengthy conversations with Chris I have decided to send the frame down to classic-trial to have the steering head angle changed, the foot peg mod done, 300 seat mod, chain tensioner mod, the cracks on the gussets welded and the whole package powder coated, the exhaust is also due to head down the road to be opened up cleaned out and repainted.

an alloy bash plate is on order as is an oko carb and 300 seat has been sourced,

I'll be ordering a new coil from Steve Goode this week and a rewind or exchange of the source coil looks a logical move, any info on who and where on this would be appreciated.

No decisions been made on the shocks or the back box but I'm open to any experience based suggestions as the research continues.

I read somewhere in a previous thread about a front brake mod to improve on the standard 240 but the details are elusive any pointers on this would be gratefully received Lee.

Any other pointers or suggestions are always welcome as this is my first fanny

H..

Hi Guys,

Ive just had my 240 engine rebuilt by Bill Pye and could do with getting the frame painted, as a matter of interest how much roughly does classic trial charge to do it? (Dont worry I wont quote you!!!)

Got to keep these Fantics alive!!!

Cheers Russell

Russell

If you just want the frame painted or powder coated it would be much more cost effective to have it done locally, having spoken with Chris in the last few days he is swamped with work at the minute and is unlikely to take in your frame just for painting at this time.

check out some of the more local powder coatig firms to you and save on time and postage.

Or contact Chris through his site by e-mail or Tel.

H..

Hi Guys,

Ive just had my 240 engine rebuilt by Bill Pye and could do with getting the frame painted, as a matter of interest how much roughly does classic trial charge to do it? (Dont worry I wont quote you!!!)

Got to keep these Fantics alive!!!

Cheers Russell

Around the

Seems like this years flying past and the 240s still not finished so here's an update,

Frame with all mods done,powder coated and perfect

Engine fully rebuilt and painted,

lightweight tank from our friend in the south along with an oko carb and some other shinny bits

Front pipe has been cut n cleaned and fully repainted and a wes back box sourced for the moment,

Source coil replaced along with main coil from Bill.

went with some trickshocks to finishnshould get some time to put it all together this week fingers crossed.

Couple of pics

H..

Edited August 2, 201016 yr by scoobie232