Which way round should the impeller shaft seal be fitted? I've taken the impeller off and am looking at the shaft head on and can see the metal spring in the seal, should i be able to see the spring from this side or should the seal be up the other way?

Also which way should i be fitting it from, should i push it in from the outside of the casing or should i remove the bearings on the inside and do it that way?

Edited March 21, 201016 yr by SawTooth

Usually the spring side of a seal goes to the high pressure side. So maybe that would be the spring side to the water side since the water jacket builds up pressure.

Is that a definate?

Yes, the Garter spring on the seal should be on the higher pressure side (in this case it would be the water side)

Excellent, cheers. Best way to fit these? I was going to place a drop of oil on it end either knock it in gently with a bit of bar or use a bit of studding and some nuts and washers to make a tool to press in in square.

I have never installed one, but lubing It inside and around the outside is a good idea. Maybe a deep socket will work to set it.

Cool will do that tomorrow then

Just fitted one to my Evo using a long socket just slightly smaller than the seal . It went in very easy but took a sharp tap with a hammer to get it to go flush. Stopped the oil going white immediately.

Edited March 21, 201016 yr by ianwilson

Just fitted one to my Evo using a long socket just slightly smaller than the seal . It went in very easy but took a sharp tap with a hammer to get it to go flush. Stooped the oil going white immediately.

Thanks for that, i take it you fitted it flush then rather than tap it back against the bearings?

Hi

I was going to post a topic about oil going White, but decided to back onto this topic! I've a 2008 rev 3 250, had it from new and it's a great bike. A couple of weeks ago i noticed the oil was milky through the sight glass. Now I had done a very wet trial the previous week, checked the airbox and there was a little pool of water in the bottom. I cleaned the airbox, dropped the oil, flushed it with petrol and replaced it. I ran the bike for 5 mins or so, and when the oil settled it was clear, so I thought the problem was solved. After todays trial, same again. Oil was milky, so I dropped it, flushed and replaced it. Same again, I ran it for 5 mins or so and the oil settled clear. Could it be that it takes a while for the coolant to weep past the water pump seal ?

Any advice ?

Cheers

john

Edited March 21, 201016 yr by John B

Hi

I was going to post a topic about oil going White, but decided to back onto this topic! I've a 2008 rev 3 250, had it from new and it's a great bike. A couple of weeks ago i noticed the oil was milky through the sight glass. Now I had done a very wet trial the previous week, checked the airbox and there was a little pool of water in the bottom. I cleaned the airbox, dropped the oil, flushed it with petrol and replaced it. I ran the bike for 5 mins or so, and when the oil settled it was clear, so I thought the problem was solved. After todays trial, same again. Oil was milky, so I dropped it, flushed and replaced it. Same again, I ran it for 5 mins or so and the oil settled clear. Could it be that it takes a while for the coolant to weep past the water pump seal ?

Any advice ?

Cheers

john

My milky oil looks like its caused by a split in the impeller shaft seal, from what i can see other causes may be a worn impeller shaft or a corroded casing. Depending on the whats causing it then the time it takes for the oil to go milky could vary.

Edited March 21, 201016 yr by SawTooth

Mine was grey like emulsion paint. The strange thing was that i didn't lose any coolant. It was such an easy inexpensive job to do I thought I'd try it anyway and it worked. They all go cloudy when being used but should clear when cooled. If you flushed with petrol that may have caused it to go white if any was left in. Lampkins told me to fill with any engine oil, Put on stand and run through all the gears until the fan cut in and then drop the oil. Then fill with proper oil.

Edited March 21, 201016 yr by ianwilson

Its a bit of a mission to change too. You have to take the sump guard off in order to get to one of the bolts holding the engin casing on, i've found that getting a 'used' sump guard back on is near on impossible due to it being bent out of shape. Other than that you'll want a new impeller shaft seal, a new impeller shaft and a new engine casing gasket (along with new coolant and gearbox oil). You'll also want about 5 mates and a few ratchet straps to man handle the sump guard back in place.

Did mine just through the water pump casing. Whole job 15 minutes. Just picked the seal out from the front with a small electricians screwdriver after taking impeller circlip off. Didnt even remove the hoses. Caught the fluid in a clean jug through the bleed screw and re-used.

Thanks guys

ian - forgot to mention that mine lost no (or appeared to lose no) coolant ! I didn't realise it was a " side casing off " job to replace the water pump seal ? Not a massive job anyway tho. And I got a front wheel puncture today ! .....not a good trial ! Roll on next week !

Cheers

john