November 30, 201015 yr How do i remove / dismantle the fork legs on a TY250 mono? I seem to remember a while back that there was a special tool required to go down the inside of the tube to lock it then you can undoo the bolt that goes up through the bottom of the slider. Be damned if i can find it though. Anybody have any details.
November 30, 201015 yr If my memory serves me right there is an internal splined nut inside the fork leg. A piece of box section filed down to sharp edges works fine. I think 25mm but maybe 20mm. Leave long enough to have one end fit in a vice and the other inside the fork leg. Then you can undo end bolt.
November 30, 201015 yr Socket set long extention bar worked for me (before I had a tool made) Use a buzz gun if possible on the fork bottom allen head bolt
November 30, 201015 yr If you use an air gun or get the use of one with a good fitting allen socket in the bottom it should be quick enough to zip it out and not need to hold the gubbins in the leg. Can't remember if they have a circlip to hold the seal though.
December 1, 201015 yr Socket set long extention bar worked for me (before I had a tool made) Use a buzz gun if possible on the fork bottom allen head bolt The air gun is the easiest way to spin off that basebolt, and install it if you know what setting to use on the gun. In a pinch, a sharpened broom handle will work on damper rod forks like the TY. Jon
December 1, 201015 yr hi i have some instructions how to do it i will sort them out and try to post them later, was someone on here that told me how to do it and worked a treat
December 1, 201015 yr Author hi i have some instructions how to do it i will sort them out and try to post them later, was someone on here that told me how to do it and worked a treat Appreciate it. I do remember there was something posted on here a while back but i have searched and cant find anything.
December 1, 201015 yr The air gun is the easiest way to spin off that basebolt, and install it if you know what setting to use on the gun. In a pinch, a sharpened broom handle will work on damper rod forks like the TY. Jon Yep - the broom handle works well too
December 1, 201015 yr If you want the previous threads on this topic just search the Yamaha forum for the word broom and it will return 4 topics with the info your after. Best investment you can make is with Machine Mart for their electric cordless impact driver for about
December 1, 201015 yr As Woody says, impact wrench is the way forward...I use an air one but if you have no comp a cordless one is just as good. I take it your replacing the oil seal?.....if so leave stantion in yoke clamped up lift dust cover off lower leg, take out large circlip and undo lower leg bolt (with said gun) and pull leg off...it will take a couple of taps to get the seal out before the leg slides off. A bit of a tip for putting a new seal in, I found a nice lenght of 40mm plastic drainage pipe is just the job as a drift for the new seal
December 1, 201015 yr I take it your replacing the oil seal?.....if so leave stantion in yoke clamped up lift dust cover off lower leg, take out large circlip and undo lower leg bolt (with said gun) and pull leg off...it will take a couple of taps to get the seal out before the leg slides off. It's always a good idea to use a little heat on the upper part of the lower leg to break the seal/leg bond. Sometimes the seal will be stuck enough to damage the upper leg bushing Teflon coating when the tubes are snapped apart. Jon Almost forgot, to keep from damaging the seal lips when sliding it on the upper tube, cut the corner off a plastic sandwich bag (like a three-cornered hat) and put it on the upper tube, the seal will slide right on. Edited December 1, 201015 yr by JSE
December 1, 201015 yr Author Actually i'm swaping a damaged chrome stantion for a better one but all the postings have been helpful. I have an air wrench so will start with that but am thinking of making up a tool. I assume the reference to 22mm is across flats?
December 2, 201015 yr It's always a good idea to use a little heat on the upper part of the lower leg to break the seal/leg bond. Sometimes the seal will be stuck enough to damage the upper leg bushing Teflon coating when the tubes are snapped apart. Jon Almost forgot, to keep from damaging the seal lips when sliding it on the upper tube, cut the corner off a plastic sandwich bag (like a three-cornered hat) and put it on the upper tube, the seal will slide right on. Nice tip with the heat gun Jon I have a handy roll of old brown parcel tape to keep the new seals from getting damaged
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