How do you tell if a rear tyre is worn out?

I have a Michelin X11 on the rear, you can just make out the cuts/lines in the top of the blocks, but the blocks have a 3 to 4 mm radius on the leading edge?

If you are riding very poorly and do not have the $$$ to replace the tire, then you have a worn out tire.

It makes for a very convenient excuse.

When it's slick enough to put on a street bike!

Just kidding, I usually ride them until the leading edge of the knobbies are about three millimeters from the carcass of the tire, unless I'm at the nationals.

If you can still see grooves on the knobbies then they are definitely still good enough to flip around and keep riding.

When you just can't think of any other thing to spend the best part of

You can't beat a new tyre, you soon loose 1 or 2% of the grip as they wear.

What you have ask yourself is; would 1 or 2% extra grip make any difference to your riding?

Wait until it's 10 or 20% worn and then you will really notice the difference.

You can't beat a new tyre, you soon loose 1 or 2% of the grip as they wear.

What you have ask yourself is; would 1 or 2% extra grip make any difference to your riding?

Wait until it's 10 or 20% worn and then you will really notice the difference.

Damn, I was hoping my poor riding was down to the tyre

If you ride mud or sand (loose dirt) it might make a difference, but I`ve seen top riders wear out a practice tire to nothing without any change in performance. With emphasise on rear wheel riding, pressure is more where the grip is found. If you can afford to replace the tire often it could help the mental side of the sport.Just like any national everybody shows up with fresh tires, typical of our concern of our own self worth.

You can't beat a new tyre, you soon loose 1 or 2% of the grip as they wear.

What you have ask yourself is; would 1 or 2% extra grip make any difference to your riding?

Wait until it's 10 or 20% worn and then you will really notice the difference.

Not road racing here Pete! Like Lineaway said, I also have witnessed a few incredible feats by some on practice tires that I may have trashed long before.

However , flipping a tire or putting on new is Always good for the ego!

I have sold perfectly good used sets of Mich for $50 that others disguarded!

if you havnt turned the tyre yet,you will get another life out it by turning it.you cant afford just to use one side.

err..when Baldilocks says 'stop using that poor tyre as an excuse for your poor riding'

I believe that you have to look at the outside knobs on a trials tyre to see when its worn rather than looking at the tread on the centre knobs. When the outside knobs are rounded then you start to lose grip in the wet especially when trying to turn. When its dry then the tyre wear makes much less difference.

I have used a trick from my car racing days. Use a razor blade in a knife and cut the edge of the knob making it square again. Takes a little time, but hey enjoy a beverage a movie while you are working. I live where we have snow on the ground for 5 months of the year. A tire that has been 'sipped' works better in the snow and mud then a newer tire because it cleans out better. I have experimented with cross hatching the blocks in the dry, I have had some success with tires that I would have scrapped. You have nothing to loose except time if the tire was used up anyway.

How do you tell if a rear tyre is worn out?

I have a Michelin X11 on the rear, you can just make out the cuts/lines in the top of the blocks, but the blocks have a 3 to 4 mm radius on the leading edge?

turn your tyres to utilise both sharp edges on midland mud.

I have used a trick from my car racing days. Use a razor blade in a knife and cut the edge of the knob making it square again.

The one real control in the Trials rule book is the size shape and spacing of the blocks on the tyres.

Trimming the blocks increases their spacing and may make the tyre technically illegal.

Re cutting the sipes, or cutting them deeper can make a difference, 'specially on damp greasy rocks, and is allowed in the rules.

Why are they so ruddy expensive Is there no way amongst us all to sort out remoulding tooling etc. the price for new would drop pretty dam quick then.