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Evo 300 4t issues.....

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Hi all :)

Having a few issues with my evo 300 4t, when opening the bike up to attempt a big climb or step it seems to miss mid-top range but instantaneously clears, its almost like a splutter, or a resistance. drained the carb today thinking it maybe abit of moisture but doesnt seem to have cured it, just stripped the airbox off and exhaust ready to take carb off but i have ran out of light, and thought id ask you knowledgable guys if you have any ideas? spark plug is a NGK R non iridium?, comes out very light brown. p.s also has the arrow exhaust system. Any info or ideas u guys have will be greatly appreciated!

Might be an idea to check the CDI Unit for any water that may have got into the terminals, if your plug is a light Brown/Tan colour it is running correctly, So the mixture can't be the problem. Is the bike backfiring at all?

A few people have had this issue which has been caused by water getting into the CDI.

Edited by BenBeta23

It sounds like it is a bit lean in the mid range.

The 4T bikes are sent out from the factory lean to pass emissions..... I raised the needle all the way on mine and it gained a lot more snap/go in the mid-high end.

  • Author

It sounds like it is a bit lean in the mid range.

The 4T bikes are sent out from the factory lean to pass emissions..... I raised the needle all the way on mine and it gained a lot more snap/go in the mid-high end.

Ill give it a go, does the carb come off easy enough when air box and exhaust is removed?

Ill give it a go, does the carb come off easy enough when air box and exhaust is removed?

The carb comes out a lot easier with the airbox and backbox off and also undo the top of the rear suspension its still a pain to do compared to the rev 3's as everything is so compact,im having similar issues with mine found a little moisture in connections for CDI so dried it out and cleaned the terminals but its not made that much difference

NZ - being a bit thick here when it comes to setting up carb but which is the needle valve and how do you raise it ?

  • Author

The carb comes out a lot easier with the airbox and backbox off and also undo the top of the rear suspension its still a pain to do compared to the rev 3's as everything is so compact,im having similar issues with mine found a little moisture in connections for CDI so dried it out and cleaned the terminals but its not made that much difference

NZ - being a bit thick here when it comes to setting up carb but which is the needle valve and how do you raise it ?

Let me know how you get on, i have found a lot of moisture in the connections to the cdi as well so dried it out and sprayed with wd40, i will try it again and if no improvement i will strip down and take carb off and investigate

Will let you know how I get on Bob but going on holiday for 2 weeks on Friday so don't think will get chance before I go but seems strange how quite a few people are having the same issues so hoping somebody will throw some light on the situation so I have a idea what to do when I get back ???

I have never had to remove an air box to get a carb out.....

Remove the seat/guard and Photograph all the cables and tubes!!!!!!!

loosen both front and rear carb clamps a lot and undo the throttle cable.

Push the carb forward real hard! ....and twist the rear outwards slowly. (Assemble in reverse order and use a blunt pencil to 'help' the rear boot over the carb)

With the carb on the bench carefully remove the screws that hold the black cap on the top of the carb. Note to use a new/good screw driver!

Under the black cap is a VERY thin rubber bellows and in the middle is a white throttle slide. The needle is in the slide. You shouldn't have to remove the bellows but don't worry if you do. There is a small lock that keeps the needle in place, remove this and the needle.

The needle has a row of grooves near the top, note a 'C' clip is in one of the grooves. You need to move the clip. When you remove the clip it WILL shoot across the room and be lost! Be careful (and have a spare handy).

So the taper points down, and you want to raise the needle to richen the mixture..... so?!?!?..... (teacher asks question)...you want to....... lower the clip.

I lowered mine all the way to the bottom groove. Do the same, but remember every bike is different so if the bike does a weird 'blub blub blub' rich-mixture noise you'll have to go back one notch.

When you put the top cap back on the carb please please please take your time to make sure the rubber bellows sits correctly in the small grove. Work slowly and check if you are not sure BEFORE tightening the screws

Edited by NZRalphy

I have never had to remove an air box to get a carb out.....

Remove the seat/guard and Photograph all the cables and tubes!!!!!!!

loosen both front and rear carb clamps a lot and undo the throttle cable.

Push the carb forward real hard! ....and twist the rear outwards slowly. (Assemble in reverse order and use a blunt pencil to 'help' the rear boot over the carb)

With the carb on the bench carefully remove the screws that hold the black cap on the top of the carb. Note to use a new/good screw driver!

Under the black cap is a VERY thin rubber bellows and in the middle is a white throttle slide. The needle is in the slide. You shouldn't have to remove the bellows but don't worry if you do. There is a small lock that keeps the needle in place, remove this and the needle.

The needle has a row of grooves near the top, note a 'C' clip is in one of the grooves. You need to move the clip. When you remove the clip it WILL shoot across the room and be lost! Be careful (and have a spare handy).

So the taper points down, and you want to raise the needle to richen the mixture..... so?!?!?..... (teacher asks question)...you want to....... lower the clip.

I lowered mine all the way to the bottom groove. Do the same, but remember every bike is different so if the bike does a weird 'blub blub blub' rich-mixture noise you'll have to go back one notch.

When you put the top cap back on the carb please please please take your time to make sure the rubber bellows sits correctly in the small grove. Work slowly and check if you are not sure BEFORE tightening the screws

Cheers Ralphy will do this when i get back off hoilday in 2 weeks :hyper: The only reason i took airbox off was cause i needed to turn rear suspension round so i could get to the adjuster as it had been put on the wrong way round from the factory so found it easier to take it off while i was at it :thumbup:

whats the best thing to spray in the cdi connector block

wd40 or an electrical silicone spray

jsp

  • Author

whats the best thing to spray in the cdi connector block

wd40 or an electrical silicone spray

jsp

I have used wd40 and seems to have cured my problems! touch wood! :thumbup:

NZralphy, im very disapointed to realise i spent four months in morrinsville and didnt realise there were any trials riders in the area!? if only i had realised you were from Hamilton before i went to NZ :wall: how big is the local trials community?

Mate it is the largest trials community in NZ - if you combine Tauranga & Auckland in this local group. Still small in UK standards but at a club trial probably 20-30 riders dependent on the weather. There is a trial probably every 2nd weekend if you are willing to drive 60minutes to the other large towns. Bugger!

  • Author

Mate it is the largest trials community in NZ - if you combine Tauranga & Auckland in this local group. Still small in UK standards but at a club trial probably 20-30 riders dependent on the weather. There is a trial probably every 2nd weekend if you are willing to drive 60minutes to the other large towns. Bugger!

I cant believe you dont have more top class riders with the terrain over there! there were some amazing areas for trials, far more scope than alot of uk locations, i guess its just the smaller population and distance traveled to get to a trial would be the problem! is it fairly easy going where you can ride, not to many complaints? i also noticed the price of second bikes were ridiculous!

had another bad day with mine on saturday, couldnt rev it clean when you went

to give it a handfull it started to cough and splutter but not all the time.

stripped the carb and cleaned it all out, going to ride in the same venue

on wednesday night in a trial so we will see. has any one had there

cdi changed on warrenty yet and can lampkins test it

jsp

had another bad day with the evo after cleaning the carb,

coughing spluttering and back fireing didnt manage to finish the trial,

got a new plug and cgi on the way to try to get it sorted

any other ideas ?

jsp

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