bondy Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 hi all am new to moden trails. first of all how do i fit the rear wheel on my own on my 210 gas gas 250 pro i have to get my wife to help me not ideal but dont tell her that. problem is the brake pads keeping them open why trying to slot the wheel in? the other problem is i had a flat tyred a new rim band no joy so i tryed a innertube. got in in and inflated it ok untill i put in back on the bike. the wheel is not running true is this because i put innertube in? or is it because i put some tape round the inside rim? or as i noticed today silly me the tyre was the wrong way with the harrow going rearwards. it turns round but jumps up then down any ideas guys has this is doing my nut in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Sorry, I am a bit confused. Are you trying to fit a new wheel, or tire, or both? Brake pads - sometimes I put a tapered wedge in between the pads to keep them apart until I get the brake disk in place, then pull the wedge. If the wheel is not running true it is usually from a bent rim or spokes, or the spokes have stretched in one area due to a large impact force. Small problmes can be adjusted out but big dents usually require replacement or rebuild by a skilled wheel tuner. If the wheel is true but the TIRE is not running true, it usually means the tire is not seated on the bead correctly. This could be from having the tube pinched or simply not seating fully. Dunlops are known for needing a lot of air pressure to get the beads to seat. Using rubber lube on the bead can help a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Best way that i have found to fit the rear wheel on my own is to get a small screwdriver and put it in the middle of the brake pads to keep them open. Once youve got the disc into the pads the next part is to get wheel up so its somewhere near to where it should be. After this i put my foot under the wheel and slide a large screwdriver through where the spindle goes ( make sure you put the screwdriver through from the opposite side the spindle goes in) then get the spindle and align the side opposite the screwdriver up and slide the spindle through as you push it through it will push the screwdriver out align the opposite side, push the spindle right through and put the bolt on and your done. As far as your tyre goes it sounds to me like you haven "popped" your tyre onto the bead. You need to apply some type of lube to the bead of the tyre and then blow the tyre up until you hear two loud bangs. Michelins ive done normally inflate to around 60psi before popping onto the rim. Also make sure that the bead is clean as the tyre may not seat properly if its dirty. Dont worry about the arrow pointing the right way on the tyre it doesnt matter which way round it goes. I would take the tape you put into the rim out. All i would have on the rim is the correct rim tape for the wheel whether using a tube or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Great advice coxy my techniques much the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 I just saw a tip in Dirt Rider magazine about grinding a chamfer onto the edges of the brake pads to make it easier to fit the brake disk between them during assembly. I have not tried it but it seems like a good idea as long as you don't get carried away and remove too much pad material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Dunlops can take even more air pressure to seat the beads. I have seen them take 80+ PSI and a frined said he took one to 105 psi before the bead finally popped on. Wow! Those were all using rubber lube! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted August 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 thanks guys that was good addvice. i will get some beed lube and inflate the tube to 60psi and see if that dose the trick. ill let you all know how i get on :thumbup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpa325 Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Sounds like the tyre is not up on the bead and is wobbling- not the rim Put a new rim rubber/tape in, its not that difficult and they dont leak and you wont need a tube, use a water based lube [dishwashing liquid] when fitting tyre and rim tape When putting the rear wheel in- slide axle in 30mm from the right hand side- it will hold itself and the caliper in place, place a long cable tie[150-200mm] in between the pads. You can now place the wheel in position very easily and remove the cable tie as you slide the wheel in without marking the pads, hope this helps. Cheers Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankygsy Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 While seating the tyre bead It helps if you tie a rope around the tire - then using a length of tube to 'Spanish windlass' the rope while inflating. A 1.5" strap is better than rope if you have one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 New tires usually are wrapped or stacked so that the beads tend to be very close to each other. When I get a new tire, I always put a tube in and inflate it - off the bike - and leave it for a few days to spread the beads apart. That makes it so much easier to get the bead to get the initial seal. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee99780 Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 And keep your fingers out if the way while you pop the bead on at them pressures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 Heard that you should NEVER use washing up liquid it rots the aluminium. Earlier in the post he said he was using a tube so no trouble expanding the tyre. I always use a beader they can be used with new Tyres straight from the shop, having used one most peeps wish they had bought one years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naichuff Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 Washing up liquid has a high salt content so next time you might need a new rim Water salt and alloy do not mix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richt Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 Those tyre beaders are awesome they make tyre changing a pleasure, after messing with pushbike innertubes and ratchet straps. Mr Dabster is right new tyres straight from the shop will just pop on. Club together with your mates and buy one between you. Detergents have a high salt content especialy cheap ones to thicken them up but is mainly the Caustic that attacks alluminium. The hard Annodised surface is very resilient at first but once it gets through it will react much faster. I used Fairy to lube the Mousses on my enduro bike and it took nearly seven years before it was noticeable, frends who used cheap stuff had holes in their rims within one year. Note your rim must be perfectly clean, smooth, shiny and the tyre should slip on the bead nicely. keep your fingers out!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted August 26, 2012 Report Share Posted August 26, 2012 thanks guys that was good addvice. i will get some beed lube and inflate the tube to 60psi and see if that dose the trick. ill let you all know how i get on :thumbup: 60 psi will just give you a 60 psi tire. Takes almost 100psi which is dangerous. I always set my tire outside on a hose that I have a manual valve and wait for two pops plenty far from me with the door closed. It is worth it to fix the rim band. The only tire I have had luck with a tube and no rim lock is the dunlap. Michelin is the only tire you need a beader on, the rest should pop in place unless stored flat before hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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