Hello Rich,

Thanks! Now I can finish off the wiring.

Yes, I have soldered the resistor between top and bottom. (The pic I posted was before I soldered it on).

Attached is a picture of the completed relay with diode and resistor. The loop-wire will come off.

I will completely remove the old shrink tubes and put PlastiDip (liquid isolator) on to make it look nice and tidy.

I have taken some pics, so once I'm finished I'll post them all.

I have upgraded the bike with hydraulic brakes and now with LiPos and Kelly Controller. I think it's going to be a good improvement.

Eirik

Eirik,

I think the diode between left and right terminals is the wrong way round. This is my fault as the diagram and pictures are the opposite way round.

It looks like you plan to use that terminal with your black lead to connect to the Kelly green (4) lead? I called that terminal LEFT on the diagram.

If that is the case then the grey cap of the diode needs to be towards the other terminal RIGHT which will go to the red (9) and 5A fused top connection.

Rich

Rich,

Thanks for your reply.

It was when I saw the differences between your pictures and the wire diagram I started having doubts.

But the explanation you gave earlier with the terminal and the key switch sorted it out.

I have decided to follow the wire diagram.

So I have now soldered a connector for the key switch on the cable going from terminal (left) to Kelly red (9).

And I disconnected the loop wire and this now goes from terminal (right) to Kelly green (4)

The diode grey band will then be facing towards terminal left where cable goes to Kelly red (9).

Have started to put liquid isolator (plastidip.com) on the terminal connections and will shrink a large transparent shrink tube covering the whole terminal/resistor/diode.

Eirik

Hello,

Finished the upgrade to Kelly Controller and LiPo couple of weeks ago- and what an upgrade it is!!

Better than I imagined and in my opinion how it should have been from the factory.

I read some posts saying "it's all about learning throttle controll", but I don't believe so. The original controller setup is just too sensitive.

Anyway, the KDS gives you so many possibilities to customize the bike to your preferences.

My battery pack gives me about 42V when fully charged and 11600mAh. A lot more power than the original!! Avoiding wheelies is the "problem" now...

Thanks Rich for all the help!!

Here are some pictures from my upgrade. I believe they could be helpfull together with Rich's description.

PS! I have bought 2 Right Angle RS232 Male to Female Adapter so that I'm able to connect the KDS with the laptop without having to unstrap the KDS. The way I have mounted the KDS "inside" the frame didn't allow me to connect the RS232 connector without loosening the velcros because of the tight fit. I'll post a picture soon...

Cheers

Eirik

kelly OSET wiring diagram r harris 160813.pdf

Hi guys, I have a question about programming the Kelly controller.

When I lower the voltage output to the motor using the kelly program, it seems to just cut off the throttle at a corresponding point. For example if I set the voltage to 50% it seems that the throttle now ramps up power to 50% of its travel (twist motion) and then any additional twinsting of the throttle is useless.

Is this what you have experienced? or am I doing something wrong?

That shouldn't happen on a kelly.

you need to set in the kelly the maximum and minimum range the hall throttle will provide. this is 0 & 4v as I remember it for the stock throttle unit. This will mean the controller always uses the full range of the throttle twist.

Then you set the max power of the controller, pickup speed etc. changing these should not effect the effective range of the throttle. this is one of the benefits of the kelly over the stock controller as what you are saying is exactly what happened when you turn down the potentiometer screw.

I am wondering if the peak power is set wrong? you have to set a % based on the controllers rating so on a 200A controller setting 50% will give 100A max. then when you set the speed % you can set the slider to the rider ability 50,75, 100% etc and know you wont cook your motor, if your peak power is set too low you might be reaching the max power delivery too early?

If you need more info let me know.

I had a look at your wheel/hub conversion post.. looks fab and definitely something I'd like to look into.

Rich

Rich

Rich,

Could it be the magura throttle we run that causes the problems?

Thanks,

Chris

as far as I know the kellys will work fine with a pot throttle 0-5v input.. but you may have to specify the throttle type when programming ( hall throttles are 0.8v-4.2v , pot throttles are 0-5v ) but even so, I dont think this will cause the problem that you are having , it may be worth dropping kelly a e-mail describing the problem as they do have a habit of changing there firmware within the controller that can introduce problems.. but the chances are it is a programming issue. can you post up a couple of screen grabs ( pictures ) of the programming software that shows the parameters that you can set ?

will this same controller (KDS 48200) work on the 20" oset?

(i've emailed them and asked a few other people on ES similar questions but just found this tread).

will this same controller (KDS 48200) work on the 20" oset?

(i've emailed them and asked a few other people on ES similar questions but just found this tread).

Yes it would.

Can you explain it to me like i'm 5 the purpose of adding the Diode and Resistor to the relay when replacing the stock with the Kelly?

The diode is used to help prevent a arc across the keyswitch contacts when the key is turned off , so hopefully reduce the risk of pitting the contacts of the keyswitch and causing on/off problems further down the line. The diode MUST be in the correct direction or the relay will not work and may also cause damage to wiring/diode or blow the fuse.

The resistor is a bit of a mystery to me as to way it is there.. unless the controller has some odd function that requires it or the diagram is not correct.. maybe someone can disconnect one end of the resistor and see if the bike will still switch on and function without it in the circuit.

Edit: just worked out what the resistor is for .. see next post. .

Edited June 3, 201412 yr by gwhy

this is my interpretation of the wiring. The diode looks like its true main function is to stop high voltage spikes entering the controller..

hopefully a bit easier to follow. Still cant see the reason for the resistor so I have omitted it from this diagram. ( just had a brain fart ) unless its a pre-charge circuit for the controller ( help prevent damage to the relay contacts when bike switched on ) then this will make sense.

if this is the case then the resistor needs to be fitted across the relay connections between Battery + and B+ controller.

well explained as always. Thanks!

Question 1: Did the Kelly by itself improve the performance of your bike over the stock controller (or just better throttle control, etc)?

Question 2: I'm contemplating getting 4 more batteries for so I could make my current 12s4p pack into an 18s and upgrade the voltage tp 66.6 using a kelly controller such as:

http://kellycontroller.com/kdz6440024v-64v400aseriespm-p-1269.html. Will the current 48V1200W motor handle that upgrade? It gets hot now when i push it as is but maybe that's a controller issue?

Reasoning for the upgrade:

I have a LightningRod Mid-Drive kit on it's way for my nomad and I'd like to use my current pack for both/either depending on what i wanna ride. I can either run them all in parallel and have 44.4V/30000mAH for long range or 66.6V/20000mAH for max Power. I'll probably rig the harness so it will charge as a single pack on my Hyperion as 44.4V/30000mAH but have the option to run it as 18p if desired).

Thoughts?