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gwhy

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About gwhy

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    E-sherco E-bmx

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  • Location
    Bristol
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    Male

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  1. remove the cover clean hole and fill the hole with jb weld dont worry about trying to fit the bolt back on as it serves no purpose. just make sure that when the cover is back on that the coils dont rub or hit any jb weld on the inside
  2. yes there is but i dont know if this will help and i dont know if the cost of a gamble would be worth it, Im not sure what controller is on that model oset but some controller you can turn down the current, if you can only turn down the speed this will not do the trick. if someone can post up the peak current of these bikes it would then be easy to source a battery for them. you can have a look at power tool batterys these tend to be high drain and a cheaper option to boost-bike battery's , this is acually a good option on the smaller bikes, but not so good on the bigger bikes.
  3. looking at the specs for the battery I would say that this may be the problem , 7.2A peak/burst is very low for this application with a over current shut down of 24-36A , if it is a cell problem within 1 of the battery's this can also have the same symptoms as your seeing. if you have a volt meter you can confirm this by seeing if there is any voltage on the battery when the fault happens ( measured without disconnecting or turning off the bikes battery ).. basic things to check are is the back wheel nice and free to rotate ( with chain disconnected ), or if there is any grinding noise from the motor when rotated by hand , both these things can increase the current of the system and in turn trip the battery, if you have a current meter you can also check the no-load current of the bike i.e full throttle with back wheel lifted off the ground, I guestimate that the noload current should be no more than around 2.5-4.5A ( maybe someone with the same bike could measure this and post it up on here for future ref. edit: is should have also said if you measure for voltage as above but do still see the 24v but bike still do not work then it could be the controller shutting down due to the low voltage cut off of the controller, which may point to a faulty battery cell.
  4. It Sounds like your lithum battery may not be able to deliver the current demand and the battery is shutting down ( bms built into the battery ) this could also be a cell problem within the battery itself, do you have a link to the battery that you bought or do you know the specs of the battery ?.
  5. it looks like they are cylindrical cells not pouches .. but could be wrong.. but if they are pouches then there is something very wrong with them
  6. yes each bms looks after each pack, but the more packs you p the less voltage drop you get because the over all rating of the combined packs will now have a much higher c rating. the reason for being careful when connecting bms packs together is because if one pack is flat and the other fully charged the fully charged pack will dump massive current into the flat one and this can damage the bms's in both batterys. the listing states its a 1000w battery @ 58v this will be the cont current of around 20A (1000/58= 17.5) ..... I have no idea why the description says is 50A cont (but it may well be ) but this do not add up .. 58v x 50A = 2900W ? best guess is that the battery is only rated 1c discharge this will make it a 1000W battery, and the bms is over rated for the cells . lots of sellers spec there batterys like this and it dont make it a bad battery , discharging at a higher C rating reduces the life of the advertised cycle life.. most of the time ( on the flat and at a steady speed the the discharge will only be around 1c)
  7. most low output bms's have issues when the bike is pulling a heavy load for a longer period of time. this very rarely happens on a road bike but off road can be more of a problem, i do think a 8 year old new rider should not have any issues . on the flat current comes down very quicky once the bike is moving, it may become a problem if for example you try to give it a handful whilst pointing up a hill from a standing start. but if the contoller is set to limit the current @ appox 20~30 then at least the bike should keep moving and not trip the bms. when you added a additional pack to your 36v bike it would have become more peppy because there would have been less voltage drop when accelerating, unless you also altered the current limit on the controller.
  8. most bms's allow a peak much higher then they are rated for but only for a very short period i.e no more than 500ms then shut down the battery if the current dont come down to (or below ) its cont current rating, 1000w bms on 14s would be around a cont of approx 20A. A bms dont limit the current it just shuts the battery down if the current is higher then the specs of the bms, its the controller that limits the current. I would borrow a lithium battery pack ( if you can ) and use a watt meter to see what the peak currents are when the bike is being used. yes you can p battery packs together to double the peak current and the cont current but you must be aware that both battery must be identical voltages before connecting.
  9. the voltage should be fine, but the power of these packs may not be suitable for the 20.0 if they are rated at 1kw (58v ) which is round 20A cont, but you do not know what the peak current is for the bike and how long or how high the current will the bms be allowed to over shoot I think the current setting for the standard 20.0 is around 40A ( but i know on the 20.0r it can be set upto around 120A ) but can peak much higher. the packs will be a good buy for a standard 250W/500W ebike but not sure about a off road bike like the 20..
  10. what are the dimensions of the motor they use. i.e diameter and length. engine braking is a function of the controller, not because is the motor is brushless
  11. the armature should just pull out of the other bearing, be careful that you dont damage the brushes if the whole bearing comes out of the housing still attached to the shaft as the bearing will hit the brushes, try just tapping the mounting ears of the end cap while holding the armature in the air.. but dont go mad with the hammer :-).
  12. the tamers are no longer available.. sorry. I have posted a few other options that you can experiment with listed with in this oset thread.
  13. If it were me I would just replace the plug and socket with a much better suited ( off the shelf ) Plug and socket. i.e xt60's
  14. with the charger connected to the battery the voltage should come down to more like 48v and will only get upto the (aprox 55v) when nearly or fully charged. measure your battery voltage with it disconnected from everything first, if it flat and the battery is still ok then this will be around 47v ( if its lower then you prob have a faulty battery ) a fully charged battery should be around 52v (off the charger )( the aprox cutoff voltage when your battery is being charged will be around 56v) basically the charger voltage should drop down to more like what the battery voltage is when you test it when not connected to anything, if it dont drop down when you plug the charger in then the most prob reason is either faulty battery or a bad/no connection from charger to battery.
  15. a bigger front sprocket or smaller rear sprocket will actually put more stress on the motor/controller and battery.
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