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kingkopity

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About kingkopity

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  • Bike
    Oset 24r

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    Notts

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  1. Sis you ever do this modification?. Considering it for the 24r if it's worthwhile.
  2. Yes the throttle is a challenge. On the 2017 map, i thought it was marginally better than the current map. Yet most say the opposite. I do overlay the brake with the throttle a little, kills rear brake pads but worth it. Fortunately, the gap between me using a gas bike and moving to electric was a lot of years, ( over 20 years), so i adapted ok. And its only ever been a toy. I am seriously considering upgrading it to 72v later this year. Its currently using a 58v battery, but i have gotten that used to it, i would like a little more.
  3. Initially i just upgraded the rotors to 203mm, after that i replaced the entire set up with Hope. The standard brakes are ok for very basic riding, once you want to get some stoppies or give it a bit more, they cant take it.
  4. This was the problem i had. Just no real information. In the end i just bought one. I couldn't even get an accurate wheel size and the support was lacking to say the least. I figured i didn't want to own a product with so little support and questionable attitudes from nearly everyone i contacted. (nearly everyone). So it went and was replaced by another Oset. There is certainly a lot to like about them, the build quality is beautiful. no D shaft for the front sprocket, snail cams holding the rear wheel, Domino throttle and brush-less motor are all very nice. However, The rear spring i found to be way too soft for an adult, and i am not heavy. I found the bike too front heavy and felt unbalanced, (possibly due to 2 years aboard an Oset 24). The 16ah battery annoyed me considering they have a 20ah version available. The rear tyre has plenty of grip, at 6 psi on a red hot day, wet or sludgy.. forget it. In the end, for me - Kuberg - £4700 with 16ah battery, would need a stiffer rear spring, better rear tyre and a battery upgrade. Roughly £6000. (electric motion money) Oset - £3300 with 20 ah battery, 650lb rear spring and radial 17" competition tyre. Add a Boost battery at £900. done. Roughly £4200. I dont mind spending money, or extra money for a better product. In the case of the Kuberg i didn't believe that was what i was getting. I have now owned 2 Oset 24r, and absolutely battered both of them, and not a single issue. I do maintain them properly though. I hope i have helped a little.
  5. This was the route I intended to go if it helps.
  6. hi all. I am fairly confident that i was not the only Oset owner wondering how the Kuberg challenger 24" compared. All of the media outlets in the uk give different specs for the bike and no one seemed to know the difference between the challenger 24" and the 20" so even comparing wheel sizes was near impossible. Well i have gotten my hands on one and i want to give people the information that has been missing so they can make an informed choice. I have, in-fact, seen one of these bikes before. and it was tiny, i couldn't understand how they were marketing these bikes at adults at that size. The wheels were tiny 19" bike trials wheels, the bars were narrow, swing arm minute and sat a little smaller than the oset 20 racing. After calling many dealers, all i was told was that the wheels are bigger, but no one could actually say how much bigger, or if there were any other differences. so to correct the false information or lack of, here is a quick run down. Battery - 16.8 ah 48v nominal, Lipo. Motor - sealed BLDC with D-shaft drive and heat sink casing. controller - 8 kw peak. wheels. 19" MC front, (19 x 2.75 with Kenda tyre) 16" MC rear, (16 x 3.50 with Kenda tyre) Differences between 20" and 24" challenger are: wider handlebar, longer swing arm, much bigger wheels and 203mm rotor on the rear. The most obvious differences to the Oset 24r: Lighter, far lighter. the engineering of the rear end is far above the Oset in terms of how the swing arm attaches, the chain guide and tension-er system actually work, fitted with snail cams and a more robust axle assembly. The Domino throttle feels stronger than the Oset one and the horrible free-play at the end isnt there on the Kuberg. That is the most obvious things and should also address the lack of information. i will add measurements at some point this weekend and i intend to take the Oset and Kuberg out this weekend for an head to head. If anyone would like any more info please ask.
  7. Is it the 24r your refering too?. There is a slight difference in swingarm assembly. I have always removed the entire rear end when removing the motor to ensure I get it lined up correctly on the 6 bolts after. The swingarm axle will fly out with a tap. Don't worry about the swingarm bearings. The way I do it is non drive side 1st. Undo all 3 main Motor bolts, the long (8mm?) Bolt going through the swingarm, and left side swingarm cap and bolt, tap the swingarm axle back to release the left side part of the swingarm and then pull the right side off with motor still attached.
  8. Hi guru's. Last weekend the motor started making a kind of grumble/snatchy noise once the motor had gotten hot. Switch it off, Have a cuppa, let it cool and all fine again. The bike is just over 18 months old and still running same bearings so I figured it was time to swap them. I have removed the Motor, pulled the sprocket off. Removed the drive side casing and then with lots of swearing and clever use of welding gloves and an inner tube, removed the housing. My problem is that now can't seem to remove the non drive side casing to access the other bearing. How do I remove this side?. I can see the brushes in place and the (stator plate?).. I can see down to the bearing, but tugging and twisting hasn't worked and I've purposely hidden my hammer. Am I missing something?. Any advice or information would be greatly appreciated. And also any recommendations on bearings?.
  9. Dont bother. just use the pots. been running a 24r as a trials bike, trail bike, enduro bike and everything in between for 2 years with no issues at all. make sure the chain line is spot on and it will be happy.
  10. Hi all. I have a 2017 Oset 24R and i would like to get more power from it. Any suggestions? I am not averse to ripping the entire motor and controller set up out and starting again. I would like more range, but definitely more torque. Thanks guys.
  11. As for the washing bit, don't worry about it, I soak it in pro-green Mx cleaner, leave it 5 minutes and rinse off with a high pressure hose avoiding the motor controller. You won't hurt the motor.
  12. I've been running the Oset 24r for 2 years now with a mix of standard battery and a custom built one, I swap between the 2 and both my batteries still charge to the exact voltage they did when new and provide the same power etc as when new. I will say though, the standard Oset battery is pretty poor. It last ok, but after 10-15 min of use, there is a noticeable drop in available power and I will see it drop to 2 lights on the handlebar on full throttle. My boost battery runs for 4+ hours with no noticeable difference in power. It actually did a full 3 lap trial and then climbed a 1600 foot hill. (At a sensible gradient).
  13. No, the Oset lithuim battery is for the 24r. Oset do not currently offer a lithium ion or Lipo battery for the 20r. The battery you need from Boost bikes is priced £425 on the Boostbikes.co.uk website and is the 48v one. If you buy one from BGA reworking, Just tell them its for the Oset 20, I sent Jimmy at BGA all the bikes specs and dimensions 2 years ago when they built my batteries for the Oset 20r.
  14. Thanks for the reply. It's currently using 10 front and 102 rear. The only alternative I can get for the front is actually smaller at 9t. I can get anything up to 99 for the rear.
  15. Hi all. Thinking of fitting a smaller sprocket to the rear for trail riding. Hoping it will put less stress on the motor while at a semi high constant speed. Any suggestions on which size sprocket to go for?. Many thanks.
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