gudah

Does it have a lipseal in the housing where the driveshaft exits? If not, do install one to protect from water intrusion. Also glue the 4 screwholes in the back cover that holds the brush plate, think they are m4*8 mms philips and add just a little silicone to the joints between housing and end covers when reassembling. Mount brushed side first, some homemade woodtools helped tapping the bits together. Clean brushplat before reinstalling. Make sure all 4 brushes make proper contact to the rotor or brush damage can be the result. Hope i made sense, wroteup on cellphone.. Good luck!

If i recall correctly, do it one side at a time. Will look in to my old motor to help remember how i did it. Cleanliness is a absolute must, especially in terms of metal debris in the work area with those magnets...clear a workbench an wrap it up with clean sheets beror you start the overhaul. Pretty nasty fingersnappers also if youre not careful.

Happened on my 16/36v with the same type throttle when i got water into it by accident. Bike ran a little by itself when i hosed the throttle with water. Gave it a new throttle and then it was as new again. -Always used a plastic bag as protection for the throttle after that (when washing)and babywipes If the throttle itself needed cleaning.

Did you try bypassing the relay? Try feeding the motor with 2 separate wires with 12 volts from one of the batteries to rule out motor problems(with the rear wheel lifted a bit off ground while bike securely fastened to avoid danger)

Motor body Dia is 107 mm, overall length approx 137 as it is 139 between the swing arms. The major part of the motor measures 105 mms between the mounting plates, the rest up to 137 is a 12 mm expansion on the left side for the bearings at the brush end and i suppose the right side (sprocket) expands approx 137-12-105=20 mms, holding screw for the sprocket included. All these measurements done now on my 2012 bike but suppose its still the same for a new bike. It looks easy to shave the mounting plates off with a angle grinder and then you have a rear swing gap of 139 mms to fill with what motor you like. (btw: the rear swing can also be divided as standard). Not sure if this makes any sense, but hope it helps;-)

Does any of you know what the controller does with the energy from the motor at deceleration? Does it open circuit, quench, or send the energy from the generator(motor) back to the batteries? (A li battery compared to a sla is a bit like compairing a 1600cc Fiat turboengine to an old chevy 5700 cc smallblock V8 putting out 180 bhp each but in two totally different manors, due to their difference cc/in internal resistance). In your case having several biles at hand, i'd try one of the other bikes throttles if possible to rule out errers on that part. Sorry for spellings, just as drunk as yesterday:-

Not sure if i remember it right but my teacher used to tell us that electric motors can pull six times the nominal amps at startup, so always keep that in mind designing circuitry and fusing. (This is why they have a massive torque at start i suppose, Tesla, anyone?..). Sometimes i wonder if huge capacitors in parallell with the batteries would help, the car-audio guys used 1F caps to help carbatteries produce tons of watts in the ninetys cranking-competitions and ghat was plenty of power during some hundreds of milliseconds. As soon as a dc-motor starts turning the worst hunger for amps goes down a bit but they surely Can whoopass with petrolengines when it comes to torque, i discoverwd the other day after installing brand new slas in my 20" resulting in a 180 backwardflip feeling schtupid on the asphalt..

Do you have a friend who can lend you another controller before opening the motor? -thats the lazy way to continue as opening the lid of the motor takes a bit of knowhow and i can share the experience as i have a motor in pieces lying about if it helps you.

If its that new you have a IP6x motor and its more likely that its a throttle/controller error. If it was there when the bike was new i'd call oset for help, if it started with the new battery, i'd try testing with the standard SLA's first to rule out batteryrelated problems. (Warranty normally only goes for non-customized machinery;-) For those who have the old motor it can be good to remove the vent plugs overnight, preferrably with a slightly warm motor, to naturally vent out humidity(perhaps twice a year if youve been washing it alot).

Edit: The residue paste does 2 things, shorts the windings causing the motor to brake a bit itself And at low currents it keeps the incoming power in the commutator area instead of running through the rotor windings creating emf as its supposed to, this can cause the jerky feel when hitting the throttle slowly, but you should def check it out as a stuck brush can cause similar problems and ignoring it can burn the motor out.

Had the same symptoms on our 20, it was a damage to the commutator (the part of the rotor that meets the brushes) and unfortunately itd already wrecked the whole rotor so we had to change the entire motor. If disassembled in good time, the fault may be corrected by changing a perhaps damaged brush. Water entering the interior can also mix with coaldust and clogg the commutator with a sort of pastelike residue, smelling rather nasty

True, and also it will decrease efficiency if you go too small in the front end. If you have a carrier from oset you can buy one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/219-Pitch-Aluminum-Sprocket-Gear-Racing-Go-Kart-1-Piece-Anodized-Machined-/221359642315?vxp=mtr&hash=item338a1016cb They are so cheap that the shipping is three times the price of the sprocket so look domestically first to avoid being robbed;-) Please note that you might need a few extra 219 links and a extra chainlock to fit larger rear sprocket diameter. These are available in 90-96 (From the actual seller).

Thanks, as i suspected there was a catch. On my neighbour´s Ebike,48V1000W there is a 48V20Ah battery made up from 104 Samsung Cells(13S4P= Approx 5000mAh/Pc) -and he has blown the 30(or 40?) Amp meltfuse on steep uphills, and I suspect it has some safety-headroom or margin so perhaps a maximum of 50 Amps would be possible without killing that pack. So now, either they are better than the Samsung cells or do they just come from someone who "Badge-engineered" them in to 6000 mAh the way EarthX did when they allagedly posted their 6 Ah packs as being 18 Ah previously? If they are up to spec, it would be neat building a 54 Ah pack at £192 . How to charge a 13S9P Pack is another thing.. From school i remember NiFe-cells and Lead-Acid usually specified as 60 Ah/20Hrs or 60Ah/10Hrs giving a hint on use-purpouse and internal resistance(Potential for accident;-), perhaps something to ask for as many just sell stuff without full specifications. -While others of us(=Me) just use stuff without proper knowlege...

Has anyone tried this type?: Protected 18650 3.7V 6000mAh Li-ion Rechargeable Battery For Torch Flashlight (Copied straight from Ebay, seller called "Ebestonline"). It´s a cylindrical, type "tesla-Panasonic" battery that cost approx £46 GBP if you buy 30-pcs that gives you a chance to build a 37Volts/18Ah pack or £64 GBP for 40-pcs(39 pcs needed) for a 48 V/18 Ah pack. They claim these specs: Description: * Suitable for laser pointer, flashlight torch and other electronic products. * Batteries can be used in torches, high drain equipment and any other 18650 battery applications. * Built-in protection circuit to provide over current protection and over discharge protection * Capacity: 6000 mAH * Voltage: 3.7V * Chemistry: Li-ion * Keep in a dry and cool place * Insert battery in right direction * Color: Black * Size: 64*18mm * No memory effect, recharge up to 1000 cycles I don´t know alot more than this but it sure sounds swell if the protection is built in from start. They seem to have the same casing as a normal torchbattery(fairly rigid and protective?). Can anyone of you tell me if they would be used on our kind of e-bikes(Seems to work for Tesla Cars)?

Boost don't seem to have any available on ebay anymore? I e-mailed trials UK for a quote on their packs but no reply there so i'm kinda in limbo what to do right now. If they are 13s and fully protected by a custommade BMS I agree it's expensive but perhaps worth the extra If you are having your kids going off in to the woods alone riding and dont really trust them(or yourself) to safely Monitor the SOC then its perhaps better to be safe than sorry when they run flat. Also, a 13 S can provide 8 1/3 % more power than a 12S pack. (Or will provide a bit more capacity at the same power demand as a 12 s as it holds a bit more energy). The SLA's Ive had has typically been at 54,5 Volts hot off the charger so all volts are welcome:-) BUT... Buying a new set of SLA feels not as an option. Unfortunately, with SLA perhaps 50 % or so of the capacity is to be considered unuseful ballast as the power drop off Is so brutal. -The only real upside to them is the recoveryeffect they have if you let them rest for a few minutes which allows you to limp home From the forest if you go easy on the throttle and set the response dial way down low(oset 20/48v).