ok the only one I can eliminate is the air filter is clean and dry .looks like a carb rebuild then .it runs well when the @#/@# thing starts

A good carb cleaning is never a bad idea - especially if you're stuck using the crappy ethanol enriched fuel we have in the states. Even after a couple weeks that ethanol will grab enough moisture out of the air to start plugging pilot jets. I run a good quality fuel filter, run the carb dry when the bike is back in my garage, and add Sta-bil fuel stabilizer to every can of gas I get, as soon as I fill it up. Helps a lot.

I worked on an engine once that had a bent choke rod. It would start hard and run very rich. Possible your choke plunger is being held open slightly?

hi new plug and a few kicks and its running just need to find out what the problem was thanks to you all for the help and info will let you know what the problem was when I find out thanks roger

Happens all the time, most likely left the petcock on when put away. I have seen the same riders do this over and over. Started today because the fuel dried up and the new plug. Good luck and have fun. Just make sure the petcock actually works and everyone knows which way is off.

Having this issue, but it was a new plug.  WIll the plug not dry out too or does it need a new plug each time this happens?  If i remove the plug and leave it a week, will it dry out naturally?  I remember the previous owner warned me about this and said if he leashes it on he has to tip the bike up vertically so the fuel comes out of the exhaust?

 

 Does the pet cock not work? You need to turn it to off. You can also bend a rod from hydro lock..

Petcock works, it was running for about 30 seconds and then died. Any easy way to identify a bent rod?

When the bike was put away had it just been washed? Water may have found its way into the exhaust system from not plugging the tail pipe. There has been many good suggestions about a ‘fix’ for your non-starting issue, but I would start by looking at any and all carb breather pipes, and the carb to air filter hose/trunk call it what you will. Only try starting the bike when you have sorted that fuel flooding, as each attempt just puts more petrol into the wrong places i.e. washing lube oil from any bearings, as it is oil misting from the evaporating fuel that allows the oil to do its job. The reason that you might have a ‘flash fire’ is simply the fact that with enough petrol sloshing about in, around and over the engine it only takes a random ignition source to ignite the now evaporating petrol! The kill switch may emit just such an arcing spark, the flywheel rotor and ill fitting ht coil connections may also help out here to. Its amazing just how complacent people are with such a starting issue they forget all about self preservation for themselves and others...be safe first?? 

Hi, yes it had just been washed better than I have ever washed it before! Pressure cleaner job and no bung. Have stripped carb and air box, tried everything above, tipped bike upside down and turned the engine to try and drain anything unwanted. A fair bit came out. Kicked it over empty with plug removed. Dried out what I can. Only think I haven’t replaced is the plug, but it was new 6 months ago, and 10 minutes of riding! Fingers crossed!

A fouled plug can normally be revived by a can of brake cleaner. Just squirt up in the plug between the insulation and the threaded outer body. It’ll clean any oil/fuel shorting it out. 
 

As others said. Always store the bike with the fuel turned off. Seems many trials bikes don’t like it left on. My enduro bikes the opposite. It never leaks unless I turn it off for long distance transport or maintenance, then when I turn back on it loves to pour out the drain hose. 

It’s probably worth pointing out again that Beta stators that used trigger coils are notorious for failing and causing hard starting, crappy running and random stalls while still showing lovely blue sparks. The sparks just happen at the wrong time in the engine rotation. The newer bikes all use a Hall effect sensor and a cutout on the flywheel for timing and don’t have the problem. You can tell the difference by the  sensor housing on the top rear of the flywheel cover.