Hi all.
BIke is 300 Raga 06, my problem is - i have not sharp jerk/pull, when dropping a clutch lever. So i can't do precise jumps, jap-zaps especially, because wheel is just riding, not jumping quickly. All appears like when clutch plates are worn and slipping. But clutch basket is in required measurement and i can pull a wheelie even in 5th gear without clutch help, just suspension and throttle. And lever's pull did not became light, like when thin clutch basket.
I'm using oils: ATF Dexron3, Motul Transoil 10W30, Ipone Box2. All fells the same, i mean weak bike's jerk on dropping a clutch, but it was really good last year with ATF and Transoil.
I had a coolant leak into gearbox 2 times in past three months (seal problems), so gearbox was filled with "milk". I cleaned it and rinsed engine with 250ml of Motul 10W40. Surprisingly, with 10W40 clutch drop was a blast - really sharp and good jerk on 1,2,3 gear. I liked it, but with this oil lever became more stiffer, finger tired quickly.
Strange that so different behavior of clutch with 10W40 and my other oils, but, as i wrote, last year it was all good with my usual oils.
What could happened - maybe mix of coolant and oil affects somehow on fiber disks or what? Do i need new clutch pack?..

Question 2.
My kickstarter seal (green one, from outside of clutch cover) became seep oil and about last 5-7 rides almost dropped out of his seat. I changed 3 seals in that time - all did the same and all is ripped by the kick - i see spring inside of seal. I don't understand.

Water can definitly kill your clutch.

And probably there is a crack in kickstarter/clutch cover. THats why the seal can drop out easaly. It happens somethime...

ok, I will search for crack.. but didn't seen, is it need to be really visible or even some really small is enough?

so, water+clutch - how it affect? Motul 5100 10W40 pulls bike good... atf/transoil/ipone - pulls poor, so are clutch disks Really spoiled by coolant and water? And is it possible to inspect it visually? Or clean somehow.. any thoughts?

Thanks.

THe thickness of the whole package is very important. Cooland can make the plates swell --> thicker --> clutch wont work correctly

Measurements:

No less than 9.75mm and not more than 10.05mm for the plate package

and from the end of the fingers, to the clutch housing should be +-17.1 if i remember well

/ found the picture for you

Edited November 6, 201411 yr by crazybond700

Try stripping the clutch out and clean the plates with brake cleaner, Re assemble in the exact order it came out as on some clutches the thicker friction plate has to go in 1st. Don't soak the plates just give them a good drenching and let the cleaner evaporate.

Check the steel plates haven't glazed too much, Give them a light sand with fine wet and dry 800 to 600 just to make them dull, dont go to mad with heavy grits as it will wear out the friction plates when back together.

Contamination from the water leak has probably soaked into the plates.

Atf should give the sharpest clutch action over all the other oils, with out going into science, it basically grips better so to speak.

10 40 is fairly thick so it's helping with the clutch action at the moment but will probably drag when disengaged.

Check for play in the kickstart shaft, Could be a worn bearing or bush wearing the seal.

Thanks for advice Steve. Will try that all.

Is this that bearing - http://trialstribulations.net/images/products/gaskickshaftbearing_1024x768.jpg and what is bush? Can you give number from manual?

By the way - how to pull out this bearing from engine case? Do i need strip engine or just can somhow pull it, knocking on it (on bearing)?

Edited November 10, 201411 yr by lian

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/53226-gas-gas-kick-start-spring/

The number is there. This is the bearing behind the kickstarter. In the casing is no bearing, only a seal.