March 23, 201511 yr Edit - post withdrawn, misread original post Edited March 26, 201511 yr by dadof2
March 25, 201511 yr I thought on doing this myself then took the other approach - putting thicker linings on the brake shoes and skimming these down to suit the hub. Worked out quite well and only cost £20 for the reline, left about half a mil clearance between the two so it should give me a good brake . I take it, it's the wheel hub we're talking about? http://www.ralphsbultaco.blogspot.co.uk
March 25, 201511 yr I thought on doing this myself then took the other approach - putting thicker linings on the brake shoes and skimming these down to suit the hub. Worked out quite well and only cost £20 for the reline, left about half a mil clearance between the two so it should give me a good brake . I take it, it's the wheel hub we're talking about? http://www.ralphsbultaco.blogspot.co.uk About your brake re-lining and turning down the friction material on your brake shoes. For maximum braking power, the entire surface of the lining of the brake shoes should make contact with the brake drum. To achieve this, you should put shims between the cam and the brake shoes before pulling them tight against the cam, as if you would be applying your brake a little bit. Then you should turn down the lining to the exact diameter of the brake drum. I hope my English is a bit comprehensible Edited March 25, 201511 yr by guys
March 25, 201511 yr does any one know a place to get my bultaco hub relined done Bultaco Sherpa hubs usually only require relining when the chromed braking surface wears thin or starts to lift away, then a cast iron ring is fitted to the hub to the same diameter as when the hub was new.
March 26, 201511 yr Cant help but wonder just how much the hub would really wear when only using the bike for trials.
March 26, 201511 yr An oldtimer (car) brake specialist told me to just remove the chrome lining and brake on the aluminium surface. It shouldn't give much problems. But I had my Sherpa's brakes relined with a steel ring just to be sure. (This was done in France)
March 26, 201511 yr Cant help but wonder just how much the hub would really wear when only using the bike for trials. In the UK climate a lot .
March 26, 201511 yr For maximum braking power, --- put shims between the cam and the brake shoes ---- Then you should turn down the lining to the exact diameter of the brake drum. I should have done that - that would have been perfection
March 26, 201511 yr I should have done that - that would have been perfection Being a machinist for some time; I guess I need to see the tooling required to accomplish this operation, cause it isn't quite as easy as it sounds. I am sure I'm missing something in machining linings to fit. By the way what prices are we talking about, I am sure someone has a lathe or milling machine large enough to bore the complete wheel without tearing it down & relacing & truing (watch the offset) costs ect. Guess I'll just go with bad chrome & alloy plus LH brake or Alpina wheel & rod brake.
March 26, 201511 yr An oldtimer (car) brake specialist told me to just remove the chrome lining and brake on the aluminium surface. It shouldn't give much problems. But I had my Sherpa's brakes relined with a steel ring just to be sure. (This was done in France) I had a rear hub lose what was left of the chrome lining in the rear hub during a trial a few years ago. You would not believe how quickly the mud and silt wore into the exposed alloy. Quickly enough to cause retirement from the trial. Cost of having steel liners in the UK is about £40 - £50 average, per hub
March 27, 201511 yr I had a rear hub lose what was left of the chrome lining in the rear hub during a trial a few years ago. You would not believe how quickly the mud and silt wore into the exposed alloy. Quickly enough to cause retirement from the trial. Cost of having steel liners in the UK is about £40 - £50 average, per hub Good thing I didn't take his advice then. And I paid way more to get my hubs relined, down in France (this will teach them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eep1_tiPOVY )
March 27, 201511 yr Checked out prices on this side of the pond; setup & bore .25 oversize, Fab liner; press fit; bore liner; (must be true to bearings) true brake shoes (tooling????), please note wheel mounted. Many dollars over here 3+ x above. Have a Nice day Larry ;PS I wish someone would show & tell about brake lining truing, it must be simple tooling, if I should figure it out I will share with all interested. Edited March 27, 201511 yr by lbhbul
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