December 29, 201510 yr Can anyone confirm the black wire from the cdi unit is the kill one. (Other three white, orange and brown) Thanks
December 29, 201510 yr I am sure it is, but I will check the wiring diagram when I get home and confirm. Steve
December 29, 201510 yr OK, the handlebar mounted kill switch is fed from CDI terminal 1 and should be blue/black trace. The other 3 CDI terminals, fed from the generator are: 2 = Brown 3 = Red 4 = White This is on a '93 Climber 280 If you want the schematic, let me have an email address. Steve
December 31, 201510 yr Author I am sure it is, but I will check the wiring diagram when I get home and confirm. Steve You were correct, kill switch working thanks. The engine is running pretty good at the bottom end, but smoking heavily if reved. Will try it again tomorrow in case it's just accumulated crap. I suspect its engine oil however (the engine was bought second hand with no real history) What is the usual suspect ? Central casing joint, or disc valve seal ? Right hand side is dry, and left hand crank seal is behind disc valve, correct ? Anybody any experience ? Have a Great New Year when it comes to all. Ross
January 1, 201610 yr Unless the crank cases have been split, its unlikely to be the centre joint. Just out of interest what oil/petrol ratio have you mixed?
January 1, 201610 yr Author Unless the crank cases have been split, its unlikely to be the centre joint. Just out of interest what oil/petrol ratio have you mixed? Hi, pretty sure the cases have been split by PO. Running at 50:1, I always use that ratio in rotax motors so familiar with the "normal" smokescreen ! Edited January 1, 201610 yr by b40rt
January 1, 201610 yr Hi Ross, Years ago, I worked for the SWM importers, so my knowledge is mainly of the aircooled motors. That said, the bottom end was pretty similar. I can recall only one time where a l/h crank seal caused a problem and that was a spin off from a mains failure. If I remember correctly, not only did it smoke more, it also ran like a pig at bottom of the rev range and there was also evidence of blow thorough in the clutch case. I also remember that we ran at 100:1 mix using some 'witches brew' 2 stroke oil that Century/Fuchs provided. Be interested to know what you find. What year is your Climber?
January 1, 201610 yr Author Hi Racehunter, slight confession. It's now air cooled and in an swm. I originally bought the bottom end for the clutch casing, so didn't ask to many questions about its history. The cdi unit was missing so looked at getting one being manufactured in Germany, but cost about 300€ ! Eventually found one on ebay at a sensible price. (The previous engine in the swm will get rebored and have a new big end, and will be kept as a spare if this one is ok.) I'm sure Martin M said that if the o ring seal on the disc valve cover is damaged (or missing) it can draw oil in this way. Later today I will run it again and see if improves. Thanks for your help. Ross
January 1, 201610 yr No problem. Yes I agree in theory that a damaged or missing o ring in the cover would cause a problem, but that would only be down to the previous owners lack of skill/awareness. That said, loose disc valve cover screws would cause the same result. Good luck
January 11, 201610 yr Author Update, the oil seal in the disc valve cover was rattling about and far from being seated properly. I have a new one so will fit and hope !! The disc valve o ring is in good condition, and screws were tight.
January 12, 201610 yr Author All good now, just crankshaft seal that sits in the disc valve cover. Cheers Steve.
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