Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Trials Central

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

300Rr Clutch

Featured Replies

I gather than the Montesa uses a standard clutch setup with coil springs rather than a bellville type arrangement ala GG/TRS/etc. Is there any adjustability available to change clutch pull effort, similar to the Beta where you can flip the spring retainers, or would I need to start pulling springs?

 

Just curious... I don't have one, and I've only ridden one briefly, so no idea if I'd need to do any of this, but generally I need a soft pull due some hand problems.

The 300RR has a washer (P.N. 22403-NN4-L60) under each spring to get a little more preload than the smaller displacement 4RTs.

 

So you might be able to get a small reduction in clutch pull by removing the washers. Which would be like flipping the hat washers on a Beta.

 

I'd guess Honda put them in for a reason. So you might get a little clutch slip with the washers removed on the bigger engine. Don't know if you could find a clutch master cylinder with softer leverage ratio or smaller piston.

Your correct on the type of clutch. I believe it is the parts are possibly the same as the CRF 250 clutch.

With these types of clutches (coil springs) you can add small washers (5-6mm) on the top of the posts under the bolts that hold the springs on. ...

 

The difference is the 4RT clutch is actuated by a slave cylinder in the clutch cover rather than rod coming through from the left side. So adding washers between the posts and clutch lifter plate 22361-NN4-000 (where they'd need to go in this configuration) moves the lifter plate out and pushes the slave piston further into the cylinder. So it'd depend on having enough back-cylinder for the slave piston, or putting more gaskets or a spacer under the clutch cover to get the slave back into its normal working range.

 

Bottom line, it might be a little more involved to go that way vs. a clutch actuated from the other side.

 

How about  getting  a 315r master cylinder to put on it  thats what i have on my 06 repsol

 

Based on the amount of force on the standard clutch in comparison to the extra pressure created by the washers on the 300RR I would venture an educated guess that unless your riding the champ/pro line your not ever going to see any slip in the clutch to remove them. 

 

I say this because I know several people who have pulled 2 springs of the 6 in the 4RT clutch and don't ever feel slip even in 4th or 5th unless they are reving and dumping the clutch hard. 

 

I pulled 2 springs as an experiment and found it worked great unless I was in 5th gear (only time it ever slipped), however my clutch was already extra smooth and light for a 4RT, I am also using the ELF oil and I suspect it might even have had a clutch pack change from the previous owner. 

 

Please take this information as the grain of salt it is... its just my experience

 Wasting time pulling springs, they WILL slip if you actually ride it. We have 3 2016`s std`s and the clutch pull is fine. The trick is for better leverage and/or small hands is to slowly trim the push pin until you get it where it is right for you. Very simple to do, and costs nothing, unless you need a new pin. All three riders have done this mod. Personally I prefer it almost stock, but just throwing this out there as it does work.    

Adding washers to a Montesa clutch does the opposite to that of the top hat type on a Beta as the clutch works the opposite way to that of a Beta..                   The Montesa 300 clutch has washers under the spring to increase pressure due to the extra cc ( i.e. 300cc).  You can remove the washers under the springs for a lighter feeling clutch.  It will be just like the 260 Montesa which doesn't NOT have the washers under the springs.   I would NOT remove springs as this will make the engagement and release dodgy...

Just realized I forgot to say I put mine back in and run all 6 springs, no issues and love my clutch.

Edited by jonnyc21

As point of reference:  While the 300RR & 260 use the same basic clutch the addition of washers under the springs on the 300RR make all the difference.

 

If you own a 260 then it is not a real companions to a 300RR in how the clutch feels.  Basically how many people in this post have said how their Montesa feels yet don't own a 300RR? 

Cornishwinspring     My comment about NOT removing springs has nothing to do with clutch slippage it has to do with uneven plate release and re-engagment.  This is true regardless as to the clutch being 260 or 300.  

Edited by billyt

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.