Hi new to this site and need so help as ive just got a 349 with clutch problems, its had a replacement engine fitted, when the previous owner went to put it in gear it eventually went into gear then would not disengage, as the replacment engine had been standing he was told the clutch has probebly locked up, i got the bike knowing this it also came with the original engine and was woundering if i could replace the clutch basket from the old engine, i need to know if i can tackle the myself being keen to try, and if anyone has a step buy step guide  to doing this 

thanks ribsie

 

Does it start? If it does just ride around with the ckutch pulled in till it realeases. Other wise pull the clutch plates out and see what is wrong.

Put the bike up on a box/bike stand so the rear wheel is off the ground, take out the spark plug, now you should be able to turn the engine over by rotating the rear wheel.

Doing this you will also be able to select through the gears to prove the box works.

Once happy that side of it works check over your clutch actuation, ie does the clutch arm move when the clutch lever is pulled in and does it feel like the clutch is being operated.

Then as said above get her started up in a safe area ie a field, get the bike started moving with a push and then put it into gear and ride around with the clutch pulled in and with a bit of engine heat and application of the brakes the clutch should break free. (It's worth a try as tens minutes of riding around beats a clutch strip every time)

I had an old Gasgas 125 that my son used occasionally and every time it came out of the shed I had to break out the clutch as above.

Thanks for the advice will be trying out all the stops at weekend 

cheers

9 hours ago, lineaway said:

Does it start? If it does just ride around with the ckutch pulled in till it realeases. Other wise pull the clutch plates out and see what is wrong.

 

Thanks will try all the tips at weekend 

cheers

Do check there's oil in there first. these are metal to metal plate clutches. the clutch and gear oil are separate.

Hi thanks for all the advice can I just recap on what I've tried with the clutch pulled in the engine would not turn over but it would with the clutch released as I was told should happen 

with the bike on a box I could select the gears when I rocked the rear wheel but clutch would not disengage when released

as i had the original spare engine I took the clutch basket and with the spider leg and used gentle pressure in the vise and the plates were all moving freely i then pulled the one from the bike and this was the same but when I put it together again it was the same 

the clutch is not disengaging although the engine will not turn over when clutch pulled in but will when released 

already had good advice but still having the same problem 

thanks

Brass thrust bearing worn?

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222498770539

 

Edited May 15, 20179 yr by iconic558

9 hours ago, RIBSIE said:

Hi thanks for all the advice can I just recap on what I've tried with the clutch pulled in the engine would not turn over but it would with the clutch released as I was told should happen 

with the bike on a box I could select the gears when I rocked the rear wheel but clutch would not disengage when released

as i had the original spare engine I took the clutch basket and with the spider leg and used gentle pressure in the vise and the plates were all moving freely i then pulled the one from the bike and this was the same but when I put it together again it was the same 

the clutch is not disengaging although the engine will not turn over when clutch pulled in but will when released 

already had good advice but still having the same problem 

thanks

If the kickstart won't rotate the crankshaft when you pull the clutch in, then the clutch is disengaging. There will always be some clutch drag when it is disengaged and this drag will be most noticable with the motor stopped.

Minimising clutch drag is a worthy goal, but don't expect a 349 clutch to be drag-free.

A better test than putting the bike on a box is to put it on its wheels on a high friction surface like rough concrete, select 6th gear, sit on the seat, pull the clutch in and move the bike backwards.

Edited May 15, 20179 yr by feetupfun

Hi thanks for that what I did notice was that when I was turning the wheel on the box in 6th gear it was disengaging when you pulled clutch in but the others still seamed to lock up mind this was only doing it buy hand. Any idea what length the brass pusher should be as my parts list has 5 different part numbers depending on length 

thanks

There are different length pushers so you can adjust the position of the arm to suit your particular motor. If the arm is too far inwards when it starts to disengage the clutch, use a longer pusher.

The reason you could disengage the clutch in 6th gear but not the low gears is because 6th gear puts the highest torque on the clutch

What really matters is whether the clutch works when riding.  As you have been in there we now know all appears well visually and there will be oil in the casing.

Start it up and push off as stated above but hold the clutch lever in all the time as you work up the gearbox - it will probably free off when you hit fourth gear.  If not then keep riding round with the lever in until it does.

Edited May 15, 20179 yr by 2stroke4stroke

Thanks for all the advice it does seem to be freeing up a bit will get it in the field at weekend and give it a go 

thanks