I’ve used special fiberglass brushes to clean the pins.  

If you had the factory cable- using the software you can activate the fan. That will show if the rest of the wiring is good or not.  Then read the temperature.

These will overheat pretty darn quickly with no fan, even with everything else in good working order.  At least in my experience.  Darn minimal airflow without it.

Mark

Edited September 21, 20205 yr by lotus54

did this issue get resolved?

Hello,

I had that problem on my 2014 300.

It was a bad relay on mine(small rectangular relay)

/Christian

My fan stopped working too today. I checked it with the software and it was not woking but when I checked it by connecting directly on the fan it was woking. I checked the thermistor and the reading was 1,33 omh. PeterbB checked one, it is 2.96 K ohms (2,900 ohms) at ambient, which is a freezing cold 17C 

Do other poeple test the thermistor to have other datas.  I think that when we test the fan with  the software the engine don't need to work so the coolant temperature is not what drives the fan to operate at that moment but it is me clicking on the button on the computer. 

And how can we test if the relay is working. Do somebody know where it is possible to buy thoses thermistor and relay.

 

There is a test for the master relay also if I recall.  

   the person I sold my Explorer to had the fan quit. I had him hook up the software, and the fan would run just fine in test mode.  Turns out the temp sensor in the head was bad.  I do not have any resistance readings, but Lewisport had new ones.  He replaced and it works great.

I did have a fan fail a few years ago- I believe the same SPAL fan the GasGas uses on one of its models. 

 

I suspect either wiring, connections or the main relay if the fan works by directly connecting to power.