5 hours ago, miner said:

Got it on and chain set, snails set even.... I’ve chalked the rim where it’s fouling and it’s about 120 degree segment. Would that be alignment of the wheel? Or straightness / trueness of the hub from re-lacing?

I think you need to get a spoke-spanner.  The one I have looks like a very big washer, with all the nipple sizes from push-bike to motor car spokes.

Only do two at a time, and do them in a balanced way...  Half a turn Off one then half a turn On the opposite side.   That way the total tension remains constant.

Remember that even when the rim is true, the tyre may not be, if it has been fitted incorrectly.

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Edited June 4, 20188 yr by scifi

wheel or tyre?

Whole bike... sent the gaffer some pics and vids, it’s going back this weekend to be re-laced. Old chain guard was mullered so it wasn’t dragging, now is with replacement parts. Bike shop is a bit over an hour away... probably do it Saturday so can go off-road at the same time. ?

I'm pretty sure the rim offset is 25mm measured from the outer face of the brake disc to outer rim of the wheel. This is the dimension I used on a 2004 txt... 

Bike received back today.... case closed.  Shop did a much better job of lacing it, fair play to Clayton he took it back and rectified it, also held it to ensure it was sealing properly.  Can’t fault him for that.

Thanks for your inputs guys... if mrs wont go out this weekend (spares don’t arrive) I’ve got the head kit to fit on my 300, towing electrics to fit to the Pajero... or I can now also do some or sack it all and get out and ride the GG.... quite excited actually.

Wheel alignment although not crucial will to some extent have an effect on handling. Usually it’s the front forks that are out and this is a reason why some riders have a tough time in sections. Use a straight piece of square metal section tubing or round tubing as long as it’s straight, hold this against the rear wheel sprocket or wheel rim or tyre if seated properly in the rim. The tube needs to be long enough to reach the gearbox sprocket, so the object of the exercise is to get the drive chain as straight and in alignment so as to reduce any side friction on the sprockets. Once this is achieved you will (if the frames straight and been built properly) have the rear wheel straight in the frame. With two longer tubes held against the rear wheel facing forward to go each side of the front wheel by measuring the gap each side of the tube and front wheel you can establish alignment....or not. Wheels out of line usually mean the the bike will turn one way much better than in the opposite direction....that could be a five!??