September 15, 20214 yr Hello. I'm new to trials and can say that I'm a proud owner of a 2013 Beta Evo Factory 250! I love everything about the bike but there's only one thing that's causing an issue, it doesn't have a light/ mapping switch. I can only assume that the switch had been broken and taken off, (after all, they seem to be in a very vulnerable spot). Anyway, with my situation, I could really do with the headlight working again. The wiring at the front seems connected properly so I took the main body off and it seems like there is a loose 4-pin and 2-pin connection. Am I right in assuming that the 2-pin connection is for the brake/ rear bulb? I'm not worried about that bulb as the bulb and wiring, (that runs up the rear mudguard), have been removed. I'm dumb with this sort of stuff but would it be right to buy the light switch, (the image attached), and plug it into the 4-pin connector? Also, there seems to be grease in the 4-pin socket. Has this been done to prevent corrosion/ muck build-up? I'm hoping it's that simple but just thought I'd post on here to check first. Thanks in advance!
September 15, 20214 yr Hi, you can download the manual for the 2013 Beta Evo from https://www.betamotor.com/en/manuals/#tab-id-2 Assuming no one has completely rewired your bike and the info in the manual is accurate: Page 9 shows the wiring diagram, it looks to be in Italian. There's a table giving reasonable translation of the color wires for the 12V, 20W Proiettore Ant. Without using google translate from the 12V,20W that is your headlight. If you want the switch box I 3D printed, shown in the attached photo the orangish rectangular prism with green and yellow switches, we need to figure out how to get the .stl or .std files to you. I don't know how to fool the attach file to take them, it says the extension isn't on the approved list. I'd tell you what part number of switch I am using, except they were kind of junky and 20% of the ones I purchased quit working almost immediately. They are rated 1A at 120V so I figured they could handle 12V, 1.75 A of DC. So far so good. The CAD snip shows the little arm on the box for bolting it to the fan housing. I have many tens of hours of use on it. Not shown is the opening in the bottom of the box for letting water out. I guess it lets water in too... Second snip is I'm pretty sure the switch wiring detail from the owner's manual.
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