Apologies I know this is most likely a stupid question... I'm changing the oil in the forks, I have started with the right side rebound leg, is there anything else I need to do other than set the correct oil height? Do I need to do anything with the damper circuit?

Then I guess same question with the compression side? 

I have read all the posts here on the topic but am still a bit confused,  I have the document from the hell team also but still don't fully understand if the complex bleeding applies to me if I'm just replacing the oil in the lowers.

Thanks in advance.  Gary 

Compression side is pretty straight forward however since the rebound side is closed cartridge setup you have to follow Hell Team instructions since you have fork completely apart. If you did NOT move the rod and sucked in air, then you might be alright just adding fluid to correct air gap. With that said I've had nothing but trouble with my rebound side and cannot seem to get ride of the "clunk" when it is coming back up on rebound stroke. Hopefully you have better luck than I did. 

Thank you very much....

Yes from what I understand you must completely dissemble to set the 160mm air gap, this needs to be done with the spring removed...

Fingers crossed , I have cycled the rebound damper for and it feels OK be it a bit slow on its fastest setting... 

Time will tell.  Thanks for the post ...

Gary

12 hours ago, mbeers6 said:

Compression side is pretty straight forward however since the rebound side is closed cartridge setup you have to follow Hell Team instructions since you have fork completely apart. If you did NOT move the rod and sucked in air, then you might be alright just adding fluid to correct air gap. With that said I've had nothing but trouble with my rebound side and cannot seem to get ride of the "clunk" when it is coming back up on rebound stroke. Hopefully you have better luck than I did. 

I would say it's your compression side causing the clunk ....

It's definitely the rebound side on mine. Makes the noise even when the fork is off the bike after bleeding use hell team instructions (and others), etc. 

 

https://forum.trials.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9947&sid=661bd621f768b5b30df444fe29e849dc#p36121

I found some good information here. 

 

Thank you

Here's another thread with pics

https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/marzocchi-fork-maintenance-de-mystefied.1018648/

OK so here's what puzzles me....

I fully stripped the rebound side. 

Pushed the rebound piston up and down loads in fresh air ie all the oil removed

Reassembled and re built bike expecting a clunk,  but nothing.  All works fine ??? 😕 confused 

So I finally solved my rebound "clunk" issue. Guess what it was? The teflon sealing bands on the mid valve and "bleed piston". Thanks to Paul Amott at The Hell Team for posting this video and providing specs on how to make your own teflon bands (since you can't buy them anymore).

I was pulling what hair I have left out trying different bleeding procedures without luck. Can't believe it was something so simple. Paul is so knowledgeable, he also told me that when gas gas was selling the wave washer (BT280614101) they wouldn't bend them. Only Marzocchhi did that and of course they are out of biz. Anyway can't thank The Hell Team enough, really glad I finally solved it.

My new hand made teflon strip

Here is link to Paul's part 2 of the service of Zoke forks

 

So use a flat 1 mm shim not a wave washer?

What is the noticeable difference when you fixed them? Obviously no rebound clunk but does the rebound work a bit better,? Thank you

Hey Gary, use a flat 1mm washer but make sure you bend it down the middle a little so it pushes the other washer up against the valve. I haven't ridden the bike yet but it was really soft/springy before because of all the air in the cartridge. Will post reply once I ride it! 

How is the fork performing now?

Feels much better! I believe the worn "seal bands" and resulting "clunk" on the rebound fork was having the same effect of way too much air vs oil. So now instead of it feeling like it had very little to no rebound dampening, it is well controlled and compliant on obstacles. Very happy I FINALLY figured it out after years of bleeding the closed cartridge different ways. 

Thank you for the information.  I have exactly the same  problem, I have replaced all o rings and bled several times with no success.  I've even checked the cartridge is fully sealed by holding the floating piston and drawing down and checking the vacume holds....

Only item not changed is the 1 mm teflon glide ring...

I'm struggling to buy some though... where did you purchase it from? Thank you

And last question.  Which bleed method did you find worked.  I'm using the method of filling the cartridge,  inserting the floating piston with the bleed screw out, push it under the oil to 60mm deep, cyling the rod to check no air left. Pushing piston to 70 mm deep. Inserting the bleed screw . Then finally rebuilding the rest of the fork with the rod held fully extended. 

Cheers