November 13, 20241 yr Is the flywheel securing nut Lh tbread? also, what about the threads on the flywheel itself where you screw in the puller… M32x1.5 I think?.. left or Rh thread? (cant see why it should be Lh but you never know?!)
November 15, 20241 yr The 4t is a fairly new motor. Should be right hand thread. A little hard with the motor apart.
November 15, 20241 yr Author Yes probably should have done it whilst still in the frame!. so just to confirm, you think the crank nut is RH thread?
November 15, 20241 yr 6 hours ago, thall1 said: Yes probably should have done it whilst still in the frame!. so just to confirm, you think the crank nut is RH thread? That would be the correct way for the nut to tighten as a result of the engine firing, if the engine had to spin in the opposite direction it would need a reverse thread. If it had a reverse thread it would need something to positively stop (locking washer) the nut from loosening off in operation. Nobody puts a left hand thread on anything that does not absolutely require it, too expensive. Edited November 15, 20241 yr by lemur
November 15, 20241 yr Author Thanks guys… I’ll have a go later i can confirm it’s rh thread.. one person holding the engine and me on a breaker bar and it came free… just waiting for a flywheel puller now Edited November 15, 20241 yr by thall1
November 16, 20241 yr Author Puller arrived… it won’t budge!… even with two of us on a spanner each!… can I put any heat on the flywheel?
November 17, 20241 yr You don't have an air impact or electric. Is the clutch side still togethet that you could hold the crank from turning by the rear sprocket. All tbis should have been done before engine tear down.
November 17, 20241 yr Author I do have both but haven't tried them yet. Yes I agree , probably should have come off whilst still in the bike…hindsight is a wonderful thing!..
November 17, 20241 yr Bring the puller up tight as you can and the give the puller a blow with a weighty hammer, let inertia do the work.
November 17, 20241 yr Author 1 hour ago, lemur said: Bring the puller up tight as you can and the give the puller a blow with a weighty hammer, let inertia do the work. Someone else said too me… but taking a lump hammer to a precision shaft sat in bearings in an Ali casing just goes against the grain!… if all else fails I’ll give it a go!… thanks!
November 17, 20241 yr +1 for Lemur's suggestion. It really only needs quite a modest hit with a decently heavy hammer, and won't harm anything else.
November 17, 20241 yr 9 hours ago, thall1 said: I do have both but haven't tried them yet. Yes I agree , probably should have come off whilst still in the bike…hindsight is a wonderful thing!.. How to go about doing things is all available on the internet , do your research first before attempting any jobs that you know nothing about , it is so much easier and there will be less chance of damage occurring.
November 17, 20241 yr Author Flywheel is off.. never used the ‘sharp hammer blow’ technique before, but it worked on this one… the two Gasgas’s and Montesa 4rt that I’ve stripped previously just came off with the puller… live and learn!
November 17, 20241 yr Working on hydraulics all the time, that is the preffered method. THE HAMMER. I always loosen all the large parts before removing the top end so you can hold it all in place. Makes life much easier. Same going back together.
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